Electrical gurus, I need wiring help on my AirRide system...

Davin

Founding Member
Mar 9, 2000
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Jacksonville, FL
I am installing some air springs and part of the install requires that I run a wires from the ECU to the ignition (12v only when key is on), and illumination (12v only when lights are on - for dimming guages). There's also a constant 12v and ground but I can figure that out. I don't want to do a hack job on this. What is the best way to interface with these wires/power sources?
 
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I am installing some air springs and part of the install requires that I run a wires from the ECU to the ignition (12v only when key is on), and illumination (12v only when lights are on - for dimming guages). There's also a constant 12v and ground but I can figure that out. I don't want to do a hack job on this. What is the best way to interface with these wires/power sources?


There are many ways to do this. The most simple way is to use the fuse panel as your ignition source and constant source. They make what's called "fuse taps" which slip over the fuse blade to make it's connection.

Another is to simply follow the wires coming out of the fuse panel and with a test light, confirm which are hot with ignition only and hot all the time. Then splice into the wiring there.

As far as the illumination is concerned, you need to follow the wiring from the Main Lamp switch and find a place to splice in. Here is the diagram. The brown wire feeds the running light circuit so that's the wire you will need to trace from the lamp switch.

Hope this helps.
Scott
 
Very good info from Scott (Scott, did you go to the Ford show on 4th Ave today? It was alright).

I don't know anything about Airrides but do ensure that you have enough 'fudge room' in the donor circuit to allow the air ride to have enough power. I.e. (made up numbers): if the headlights use 12 amps and are on a 15 amp fuse, and the Airride ECU needs like 10 amps, this could present an issue.

I would honestly solder your wiring connections. I've used the taps like Scott mentioned and they can work for years. But if you need totally long-term, no-worries-ever wiring, I'd not use a fuse tap permanently myself. It's a pain to access the wires behind the fusebox, but that's a nice place to solder wires in.

Good luck bud.
 
What up Hissin, long time no chat..

Anyway, help me out here..I've built engines and re-built suspensions over and over but I have a very low level of knowledge when it comes to the vehicles electronics. Would you mind breaking down what you mean by soldering behind the fuse panel? Meaning, where would you solder in and on what basis would I choose? Is the amp determined by the device drawing off the 12v circuit or something upstream? Are all connections pre-fuse panel simply 12v source independent of ampere? (don't you wish you would have never answered this post?):D