Emergency A/C pump (compressor) replacement question

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

I had to do a emergency repair on my stang last night. A/C compressor pump pulley froze up and snapped my belt. I caught it instantly so my car didnt overheat and I think I avoided any engine damage. But anyway. I pulled a pump off of a 89 GT and it seems to fit perfectly. But when it came time to connect the metal fittings (pipes) they would not go into the holes. I guess the 89 pipes are diff from the 92. Well anyway. My question is: Can I remove the cap pieces where the hoses connect to from my old one (from the 92) and put those on the new one (from the 89)?. It looks like those pieces come off with a allen wrench. Or can I take the pulley assembly off the new one and replace the one on the old one with it? The pump fit on nicely everywhere except those 2 main hoses (pipes). Any advice, insight appreciated.

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

After reading my post it seems quite confusing. I can post pics later if no one understands my rambling..

jrichker · Oct 27, 2005

Your plan should work OK. Be sure to replace the O rings and oil them with oil compatable with whatever type of regrigerant you plan to use.

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

thanks man

Which plan you think would work? Removing the pulley from the new one (89) and placing it on my old AC pump? Or the swapping of the cap pieces that have the metal fittings that tube/pipe connects to?

Also what are my refrigerant options and what do you suggest? I am in Cali if that matters.

fiveohGT · Oct 27, 2005

If you havent you should conversion. Your post was a little confusing are you talking about the tubes/pipes that hook up to the condenser in front of your radiator?

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

fiveohGT said:
...are you talking about the tubes/pipes that hook up to the condenser in front of your radiator?

Nope on the top of the pump itself there are 2 threaded fittings. One small one big. They both link to 2 pipes/tubes that have pressure release valves on them. When I swapped the ac pump. The threaded fitting are a little smaller than the original pump. So now the tubes/pipes dont slide in. The thread fittings on the top of the pump seem to be held in place with allen wrenches. I was wondering if I can swap those. So I can have my threaded fittins from the original ac pump.

fiveohGT · Oct 27, 2005

Okay I see what you're saying now. It's hard for me to visualize what you're talking about exactly thought without pictures b/c I removed my A/C long ago. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will chime in to help you out. Sorry

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

I will post some pics when i get home, if everyone is confused (dont blame ya).....I know it was a rather confusing explanation.

srothfuss · Oct 27, 2005

It wasn't confusing...

I would try the pully method first. That way you don't have to open up your A/C system.

If that doesn't work, they you can try the caps.

The only refridgerent you can buy now a days is R-134.

BlownFiveLiter · Oct 27, 2005

R12 is still available, but it's extremely expensive, and requires EPA certification to purchase. I'd definitely recommend getting a conversion to R134a, so you can do the work yourself, and not spend a ton to recharge your AC. Click the link in jrichker's sig for an excellent write-up on how to do it correctly.

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

kool thanks for the lik tip and advice. One last question. The pulling on my old one is totally shot, so much in fact I think that pump is gone too, but anyway. I guess it was grinding some bearings in there or something and has totally coated my engine compartment with fine metal shavings. You think that metal dust effected anything else? Am I safe to pressure wash that stuff off my engine and compartment?

PuterAmI · Oct 27, 2005

It sounds to me as if you have already opened the A/C system. How else would you know that the suction line and the hi-side line would not go into the compressor manifolds?

It is now easiest to replace the compressor as a whole unit at the manifolds as jrichker said.

For another link on converting, see below URL.

http://www.knology.net/~puter/carpics/r134a.html

Modular2v · Oct 27, 2005

if u pay for the shipping and gas money i will send you a my compressor

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

PuterAmI said:
It is now easiest to replace the compressor as a whole unit at the manifolds as jrichker said.

Isnt that what I did when I put the new compressor fromt he 88 on there? Or am I lost right now? What are you suggesting I replace? I wasnt sure if jrichker was saying replace the pulley or the fittings?

PuterAmI · Oct 27, 2005

Simple.

Use the compressor with the good pulley.
Put the manifolds on that compressor that your lines like.

webshot · Oct 27, 2005

ok, thats what I figured....I wasnt sure which option jrichker told me was a good idea. And he said something about oiling the orings.... wasnt sure about that either and chiltons does not have a chapter on this part.

thanks ya'll

PuterAmI · Oct 28, 2005

When you take the manifolds off, you will find o-rings underneath creating a seal. You lubricate the new o-rings (you can get them from any auto parts place) exactly as you would the o-ring on an oil filter.

rd · Oct 28, 2005

You can do several things.

I am guessing that when you say the pulley froze, you mean the ac was on, and the compressor seized. You should be able to turn the ac off and the pulley will still spin on its bearing on the shaft.

If the bearing that the pulley rides on died, it should still spin the compressor, even with the ac off. Not good. In this case you should be able to just change the clutch asssembly.

If the ac was on, and siezed, you do have to change the compressor. Might as well change the clutch while you are at it.

If the hoses do not mate to the fittings, I think on a Mustang, as someone else suggested, you can just change the acutal suction and discharge fittings to the ones from your old compressor, that fit the hoses. You will need new gaskets for them.

Note that the clutch has a couple parts, a coil that is mounted to the front of the compressor, the drive assembly, that is mounted to the compressor shaft, and the pulley that spins on a bearing on the front of the shaft, and is turned by the belt, anytime the engine is running. The pulley only turns the compressor when the clutch is on, which pulls the movable clutch face against the drive plate on the shaft. You can just replace the clutch and its bearing if that is what is needed. You may know this, but just trying to explain if it the first time you have worked on it. You need a special small puller tool to get the clutch pulley off the shaft.

Post some more info if you need more details.

webshot · Oct 28, 2005

thanks RD (and others)

Actually the AC was not on when the pump seized. The whole time I could hear a slight grinding (when AC not on). Then on this faithful day it got real loud, then the squeal of the belt and then the belt snapped. I couldnt turn no part of the AC pump, even with pliers or wrench. ANd my engine compartment was coated with metal shavings (real fine like dust red dust). Also when I removed the pump there was not any pressure in those release valves. Could that have been a problem??

Black1987Stang · Oct 28, 2005

Hope theres no metel shavings inside the lines?

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