Car just failed test with 224 hydrocarbons out of an allowed 220. What can I do to fix this. 2 years ago when I failed the tech that got it to pass dropped timing to 8 degrees and left the spout out. However that was with stock top end. I would think the lowered timing would create more heat and burn off excess fuel not burned.
emission guys?
- Thread starter frcefedlx
- Start date
set the timing as low as they will allow, make sure your fuel system is clean and set idle close to 1000rpm. what are you running for ignition? high hydrocarbons are usually a sign of a week ignition system. with msd everything except distributer i had a max of 112 hc and an average of only 31. check your plugs, they may be just old
How to pass emissions testing:
1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.
2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.
3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.
5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.
2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.
3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.
5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
here is a few tips, running different kinds of alcohol in the gas is terrible for the car but it WILL help it to pass
Back timing down to 8 degrees
(any less is not legal)
Run hotter T-stat (192)
Full tune up w/oil change
Adjust idle to as close to 1000rpm
without going over (950 is the best)
Have fuel inj professionally cleaned or use
the below mentioned (Amzoil Power Foam)
Spray 1 full can of Amzoil's Power Foam in the
throttle body while car is running
Double check to make sure your TPS is at
.993-.995
Back fuel pressure down (around 30psi w/vacuum)
Run 2 oz of "RXP". Many mechanics at smog s
tations use this to pass customer cars.
Use 89 octane, higher octane burns slower and
raises emmissons
Run 1 or 2 bottles of rubbing alcohol to a
1/4 tank of 89 octane
If you are still having problems, you can goose it. Depends on how much
they check.
For the test
1. Disconnect the check engine lightbulb
2. Run the smogpump tube directly to crossover behind the heads.
3. Run a hose from the h-pipe/4cat air injection tube in a sneaky fasion
and dump it to the fender.
You are now adding more air earlier and dumping some exhaust.
4. Do the same with the hose on the side of the filler neck. Crankcase
vapors are now being dumped.
If this still fails, get an alternator pulley and attach it to the
smogpump front. You will need to drill 3 holes in the inner crevase
of the pulley to get it to attach. DONT DRIVE LIKE THIS! Attach the
pulley around the corner from the shop and dont idle there while
waiting. The airpump _will_ sieze after 15 minutes of this but until
then, it will be a supercharger for your exhuast. There will be
practically fresh air bellowing out of your tailpipes.
Back timing down to 8 degrees
(any less is not legal)
Run hotter T-stat (192)
Full tune up w/oil change
Adjust idle to as close to 1000rpm
without going over (950 is the best)
Have fuel inj professionally cleaned or use
the below mentioned (Amzoil Power Foam)
Spray 1 full can of Amzoil's Power Foam in the
throttle body while car is running
Double check to make sure your TPS is at
.993-.995
Back fuel pressure down (around 30psi w/vacuum)
Run 2 oz of "RXP". Many mechanics at smog s
tations use this to pass customer cars.
Use 89 octane, higher octane burns slower and
raises emmissons
Run 1 or 2 bottles of rubbing alcohol to a
1/4 tank of 89 octane
If you are still having problems, you can goose it. Depends on how much
they check.
For the test
1. Disconnect the check engine lightbulb
2. Run the smogpump tube directly to crossover behind the heads.
3. Run a hose from the h-pipe/4cat air injection tube in a sneaky fasion
and dump it to the fender.
You are now adding more air earlier and dumping some exhaust.
4. Do the same with the hose on the side of the filler neck. Crankcase
vapors are now being dumped.
If this still fails, get an alternator pulley and attach it to the
smogpump front. You will need to drill 3 holes in the inner crevase
of the pulley to get it to attach. DONT DRIVE LIKE THIS! Attach the
pulley around the corner from the shop and dont idle there while
waiting. The airpump _will_ sieze after 15 minutes of this but until
then, it will be a supercharger for your exhuast. There will be
practically fresh air bellowing out of your tailpipes.
It is much easier and cheaper to do it right than try to cheat the system.
Dumping the codes costs 2 cents for a paper clip. Most of the codes also impact performance negatively if they aren't properly fixed.
High HC readings are usually the result of too much fuel not being burned. A simple tune up will fix many emission problems and make the engine run better too.
A properly working smog pump and cats will fix all but the most severe HC problems. Usually a car that has this much excess unburnt fuel in the exhaust system will have other problems like bad gas mileage, poor performance and a bad idle.
Dumping the codes costs 2 cents for a paper clip. Most of the codes also impact performance negatively if they aren't properly fixed.
High HC readings are usually the result of too much fuel not being burned. A simple tune up will fix many emission problems and make the engine run better too.
A properly working smog pump and cats will fix all but the most severe HC problems. Usually a car that has this much excess unburnt fuel in the exhaust system will have other problems like bad gas mileage, poor performance and a bad idle.
Everything is new and working correctly however I run timing at 10 deg. Plugges are gapped at .035" for supercharger. New cap and rotor base fuel pressure is 40psi wich makes me wonder if I should drop it to 38 as pro-m recommended. I just did the h/C/I this spring and everything is pretty much brand new. I am running stock ignition but it is an aftermarket coil. This puzzles me as well. My tach's says I'm idling at 900 but this report has the car idle at 480. The stock one and my aftermarket.
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