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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Engine Compartment....Black or Red?

  • Thread starter Thread starter CarMichael Angelo
  • Start date Start date Nov 15, 2011
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hsean

10 Year Member
Jul 24, 2006
656
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dearborn,michigan
Nov 15, 2011
#21
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #21
i like the black look that is the look that i am after with a few polished items
 
L

Lowboy44

New Member
Oct 31, 2011
5
0
1
Nov 15, 2011
#22
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #22
I vote for color matched..good luck
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Nov 15, 2011
#23
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #23
madmike, it's terrible keeping it clean. Id give anything to get Edelbrock to Endrashine it all. Id go with the all black look or mostly black, sound slike you're leaning that way anyway!
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Nov 15, 2011
#24
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #24
I also vote for satin. I'm digging the look of the Stanget project car's engine bay.

 
B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
2,433
23
48
Canada
Nov 15, 2011
#25
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #25
Go different, blue with some sort of airbrush of naked chicks, startrek Enterprise, cactus and dogs playing cards. Yup... <- damn cheap drugs...

I vote black
 
1

1990_LX

Member
Oct 23, 2008
38
0
6
Nov 15, 2011
#26
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #26
My vote is satin black, I don't know why but I have always loved satin black bays that contrast the exterior color as long as it has a clear separation along the back and where the fenders bolt on. I hate when the inside edges of the fenders are painted black.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
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Birmingham, al
Nov 15, 2011
#27
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #27
I'm gonna go back to black. I agree that the "chassis black" (or satin) is the proper finish I'm after. I also think there is too much blue. So maybe I'll paint the intake black to mellow that out. And the red has to stay wher it is as bringing in red, would clash with it. (I'd have to change the engine color completely to body color if I was to bring in another color to the existing blue/black)

So that said, I'll paint the bay ohh,...let me see,..........could it be SATAN!!!
er, I mean satin
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
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Northern KY
Nov 15, 2011
#28
  • Nov 15, 2011
  • #28
The intake and cam covers could be a satin cast aluminum color, thats how Shelby did it, thats how mine is gonna be. For all blue you should go ahead and do the breather too like Ford did.
 

ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
1,659
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49
Spokane Valley, WA
Nov 16, 2011
#29
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #29
I say black. A black engine bay just has that classis muscle car look which would fit your car perfectly
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
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Birmingham, al
Nov 16, 2011
#30
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #30
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
The intake and cam covers could be a satin cast aluminum color, thats how Shelby did it, thats how mine is gonna be. For all blue you should go ahead and do the breather too like Ford did.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and I like what you're saying. I have decided NOT to paint the intake, and instead will strip it and the valve covers back to natural again. The only thing I might do is flip the highlights. The words: Victor 4.6, Edelbrock, and SOHC will get hand painted Blue. The bay will get painted satin.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Nov 16, 2011
#31
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #31
Id say go with the body color and flat black engine stuff with polished aluminum here and there. but thats just my opinion.

off topic, but did you ever get your brakes working decent with the manual swap?
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
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Birmingham, al
Nov 16, 2011
#32
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #32
90lxcoupe said:
Id say go with the body color and flat black engine stuff with polished aluminum here and there. but thats just my opinion.

off topic, but did you ever get your brakes working decent with the manual swap?
Click to expand...

Well lets put it this way,....I haven't hit anything........yet.

It works OK for me. I have to admit, a really hard stop still takes a pretty good leg to make that happen.

I don't have a reference of what a really good manual brake set up works like. I know that changing it over to the stock mustang M/C w/ the 7/8" bore from the original 1.031" bore was way better. There is significant "feel" to the manual system. I know that you can actually feel the pads start to get hot at a certain brake pedal pressure and actually increase stopping power.

I'd be interested to get someone else in the car who was familiar w/ a good manual brake system. (probably scare the crap outta em')

I know that I need to convert it to big brakes, mainly because I have to accommodate the new wheels. The additional 3" of rotor will/should make this even better.
I dont know if the stock manual Mustang M/C I currently have will work once I change it over though.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Nov 16, 2011
#33
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #33
Did you do anything to the pedal? Ive read that makes a difference getting the pedal ratio correct.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
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Birmingham, al
Nov 16, 2011
#34
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #34
Yeah,...I did all of that. Optimal pedal ratio is 6::1. Requires that the M/C pushrod be moved up 2.25" closer to the pivot point. That's what mine is now.
 

LarsD

Founding Member
Jul 2, 2002
2,680
119
123
Texas
Nov 16, 2011
#35
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #35
Black + natural aluminum + Silver ftw



 

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Shaolin Crane

Banned
Oct 6, 2008
2,627
7
0
Kommiefornia
Nov 16, 2011
#36
  • Nov 16, 2011
  • #36
Looks cobbled together
Only problem with raw finish is it stains no matter what
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Dec 26, 2011
#37
  • Dec 26, 2011
  • #37
I am tired of waiting to show you guys this. I was gonna wait till I get the entire engine compartment complete, but there is so much going on w/ that, It'll be another week or more before I get it done.

Remember when the original question was "Black or red"?

Well I couldn't choose,......... so I did em both:


The lower half is satin black, and the top half is body color (with a nifty gold pinstripe dividing the colors)


It's all basically just mocked up except the heads and cams, ( they're bolted on and the motor is timed)
The astute individuals will see that the lift struts are back, The A/C hole has been filled, and the water heater lines are now -10 fittings.




You cant get the valve covers off w/o removing the M/C ( stupid piece a junk 2v engine)
So since I am in process of doing the 5 lug Cobra brake thing, I upgraded the M/C to a Wilwood unit.
I'll install it last. 4.6 guys should notice the "bolted on" Idler pulley in the T/C cover I did when I got rid of the P/S pump.


Last point of interest for those of you thinking I'm trying to pass it off as something it aint. The 468 is for the average car show yocal because the engine looks so big in there,........ For those of us that know better,...It simply says: 4.6v8.


The engine compartment was a throw together last year, so I'm replacing the hinge cups and the rear hood insulating strip as well. detail what I can w/out getting all "car show OCD". I'm gonna drop the K member out from under it and "hang" the motor from my engine hoist until I get it cleaned and detailed.( the k member,...not the engine hoist)
Now I know what you're thinking,......... "Why didn't I do that when I had the entire engine out of it to paint the engine bay? Well firstly, nobody even knows I had the engine out of it until now. Secondly, the real reason I'm dropping the K member is to make putting the freshly painted headers back up in there easy peasy, japaneasy. So cleaning and painting the k member while it is out from under there will be easier as well.

The rear is out of it and is in process of getting new bearings/ seals/ and a rebuilt T-loc. figured that while I was upgrading the brakes and had to have the axles out, I'd do the rest.The dash is out so I could get to the heater box to fill the firewall, and convert the heater lines to -10 pieces. Like I've said before, I'm gonna have A/C, it's just gonna blow from the back seat instead. So,...lets hear it,...What do ya think of the strip club under my hood?
 

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foxbodymike87

Active Member
Jul 12, 2011
739
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39
Dec 26, 2011
#38
  • Dec 26, 2011
  • #38
Where do the heads disconnect?? It looks like one solid piece.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Dec 26, 2011
#39
  • Dec 26, 2011
  • #39
foxbodymike87 said:
Where do the heads disconnect?? It looks like one solid piece.
Click to expand...
Timing chain cover hides that. The timing chain cover on this engine is honkin'.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,933
21,109
234
Box behind Walmart
Dec 26, 2011
#40
  • Dec 26, 2011
  • #40
As usual Mike, I'm sitting here going

I cannot WAIT to see your new wheels installed. I think that was the only comment I had on your build was that I wasn't a huge fan of the Pony wheels on your car.

Keep it coming man... Oh... and I'm mentally noting all this eye candy. Just be prepared for me to show up on your door step one day with a car and some paint. LOL
 
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