engine"cutting out"

[tunnel rat]

Hey guys. Three times in the past week while cruising down the highway, my engine has just died for about two seconds then fired right back up. It feels like the ignition system is completely shutting down for a few seconds without warning or obvious reason. My gauges are all fine and my check engine light does not come on when this happens. What could cause this??? Anyone???????? "91 Stock LX

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

 

[tunnel rat]

if the "check engine" light doesn't come on when this happans will it still store a code?

 

[PrimerdFury]

if the "check engine" light doesn't come on when this happans will it still store a code?

yes

 

[bsedwebt70-5.0]

I'll bet you need to go to the parts store and buy a new distributer for 75.00 and a new ignition module that bolts on the side of it. The hall effect is more than likely defective and will do this until one day it will quit suddenly and not start back up - then you have to smack the distributer with your fist and it will start again - I replaced 6 ignition modules over the course of a year trying to fix my identical problem with the car cutting out and finally cured the problem with a distributer replacement from AutoZone for 75.00 and 20 minutes of work - got more power and better mileage too after I set timing to 14 degrees advanced with the dongle plug out (cleaned the prongs on it and reinstalled it after setting timing) make sure you get the right type of gear on the distributer - match it to yours (cast iron or steel) or I have been told it will wear out the gears in short order.

 

[PrimerdFury]

I'll bet you need to go to the parts store and buy a new distributer for 75.00 and a new ignition module that bolts on the side of it. The hall effect is more than likely defective and will do this until one day it will quit suddenly and not start back up - then you have to smack the distributer with your fist and it will start again - I replaced 6 ignition modules over the course of a year trying to fix my identical problem with the car cutting out and finally cured the problem with a distributer replacement from AutoZone for 75.00 and 20 minutes of work - got more power and better mileage too after I set timing to 14 degrees advanced with the dongle plug out (cleaned the prongs on it and reinstalled it after setting timing) make sure you get the right type of gear on the distributer - match it to yours (cast iron or steel) or I have been told it will wear out the gears in short order.

When you were going through ignition modules was the computer spitting any codes out and if so which ones?

 

[jrichker]

Ignition modle or TFI doesn't spit any codes. They usually quit at high RPMs when the engine is hot.

The possiblities are either no fuel pressure or no ignition. If you have an inside mounted fuel pressure gauge, watch the pressure when it cuts out.

Electrical problems with the fuel pump circuit will cause codes 95 & 96 to be stored in the computer.

 

[PrimerdFury]

If the hall effect thing is bad does that always throw a code?

 

[dvs bullet]

I don't think so, it would be like you turning off the ignition switch. Buy the way, if it is the ign. mod. then buy one from ford, they seem to last longer in my experience