Engine mounts - what does it take?

[liv2ride]

I am thinking about buying a '90 GT but it needs engine mounts. I was told that the convertible mounts are the best replacement and not the original.

What is the process to install new engine mounts? Is it as simple as loosening the bolts on the old mounts, jacking up the engine slightly, replacing the mounts, lower engine and tightening the new mounts? Does anything else need to be removed? How much should I expect to pay for a set of mounts?

Will having bad engine mounts cause the rear to step to one side when mashing the gas?

Thanks in advance.

 

[88stangmangt]

yes your engine will tilt more under hard throttle. if you still have the stock plastic fan you will have to take it off or it will hang up on the fan shroud when you raise the motor up. vert mounts i think are lower so the motor sits lower in the craddle. i personally like solid mounts so you can feel the engine and you loose less torque with emm too.but to tell you the truth on the install i got so pist i threw my wrench down and walked off several times...................IT IS A beotch the space it tight and some times you have to double wrench and they sliped none stop..........take your time drink some beer and have fun............

 

[HISSIN50]

a search in here will find lots of info. it is a relatively easy job. the pass side mount can be a pain. first time took me about 2 hours, with trans mount renewal too. to do it again, would take about 20-30 mins.

Jrichker has a post with a write up, including bolt sizes, etc. i once did a write up on what all i did, but i think it has gone away (i cant go far enough back in my posts to find it, i dont think).

Ford went with the interlocked vert mounts on all foxes, by 93. so you can get mounts for any 93 stang, and you should be getting the vert style mounts.

good luck.

 

[cardudeusa]

An impact wrench will be a handy tool to have those bolts are tight. You'll need a tall jack and a good piece of wood to put under the oil pan.

 

[jrichker]

The mount nuts are very tight and you will need a ½” drive universal joint and a 7/8” socket to get them off. SAVE the NUTS –you will need to check to see if they will fit the new mounts – mine didn’t. Put a 2x4 under the oil pan and pump up the hydraulic jack until it starts to lift the engine. Mark everything Left and Right when you take it off, as the new mounts may not be marked and it is very difficult to eyeball the and tell them apart. Pump the jack up way high – watch for clearance and slack in wiring, vacuum lines, etc, (the cat converters didn’t clear on my 89GT) and use some wood blocks between the headers/engine and the frame. You may want to check the rear transmission mount while you are under the car.

 

[liv2ride]

Thanks for the replies and all the help. Now all I need to do is buy the car. I am patiently waiting for my neighbor to say the word.

Aloha

 

[PonyBoy90]

If you get the car, I seriously advise that you immediately replace those mounts.

Depending on how long the car's been driven with them worn, you could have some other issues such as worn out tranny mounts as they have to pick up the slack, and it could warp or ruin the drive shaft as there's way too much movement.

Other improvements I've felt since I've had mine replaced were less vibrations in my ride, and my oil pressure is a lot better. I guess mine were so worn out that the engine was rocking enough to throw the feed of oil through my oil pump.

Also, a rocking engine could cause you fan blades to go right into the shroud causing blade breakage and cracks.