Engine rebuild pics

Vince

Vince the Fabricator
Founding Member
Feb 22, 2000
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Vancouver, Canada
I've been collecting parts for about 2 years for the day I would rebuild the engine in my car. I finally started on the project a few weeks ago. At first I took a bunch of pictures to help me figure out how everything goes back together. Then I started taking pictures of the re-assembly. Figured I'd share them here. Enjoy! I will add more when I get done.


http://www.members.shaw.ca/vbeauvais/engine
 
Looks Great! Pics are always a good idea. I alwas do when i disassemble a nearly original engine bay for those guys that may need them for restoration info. I know the engine bay pretty well, just not points restoration well.

Looks like you got a '78 Short deck block there. What pistons you running? How come E7TE heads? Are the E7's 63cc chambers? (they look like 63 or 69 cc) You gonna put all the smog gear back on? looks good so far, and it looks like you doing all the involved checks and whatnot. i always make an efort to blueprint my stuff too. Just extra assurance. :nice:
 
Dano78 said:
Looks Great! Pics are always a good idea. I alwas do when i disassemble a nearly original engine bay for those guys that may need them for restoration info. I know the engine bay pretty well, just not points restoration well.

Looks like you got a '78 Short deck block there. What pistons you running? How come E7TE heads? Are the E7's 63cc chambers? (they look like 63 or 69 cc) You gonna put all the smog gear back on? looks good so far, and it looks like you doing all the involved checks and whatnot. i always make an efort to blueprint my stuff too. Just extra assurance. :nice:

Yes, the block is a 78. It's the original motor and had never been rebuilt before. I found it interesting looking at the different casting numbers used throughout. Rods were D0xx castings, pistons D9xx, block D8VE, and the crank I don't remember. The D9 pistons surprised me since the car is a 78, but it was built late in 78 (June) so I guess that's how it ended up with 79 pistons.

The new pistons are Keith Black KB115 hypereutectics. They're an OE replacement, so weight and compression volume are about the same as original. But they need a bigger top ring end gap so I had to spend some time filing the rings.

Why the E7 heads? I wanted to port my own heads, and I was able to pick up the E7s cheap while still keeping the car running. I probably spent two weeks porting them, then I dropped them off at the machinist who milled them .020 and put in 1.94/1.60 valves and good springs, locks & keepers. If I were to do it again I would probably save up a little more and go to aluminum heads. But porting the heads was good experience, and these should flow pretty good.

The only smog equipment I had on the car before tearing the engine apart was a seized air pump. Nope, it's not going back on. The car will need to pass an emissions check, but only an exhaust test, no visual. So as long as it's tuned properly it should pass. If worse comes to worse I'll put cats on there.

Glenn, don't congratulate me until it's running!
 
Vince said:
Yes, the block is a 78. It's the original motor and had never been rebuilt before. I found it interesting looking at the different casting numbers used throughout. Rods were D0xx castings, pistons D9xx, block D8VE, and the crank I don't remember. The D9 pistons surprised me since the car is a 78, but it was built late in 78 (June) so I guess that's how it ended up with 79 pistons.

The new pistons are Keith Black KB115 hypereutectics. They're an OE replacement, so weight and compression volume are about the same as original. But they need a bigger top ring end gap so I had to spend some time filing the rings.

Why the E7 heads? I wanted to port my own heads, and I was able to pick up the E7s cheap while still keeping the car running. I probably spent two weeks porting them, then I dropped them off at the machinist who milled them .020 and put in 1.94/1.60 valves and good springs, locks & keepers. If I were to do it again I would probably save up a little more and go to aluminum heads. But porting the heads was good experience, and these should flow pretty good.

The only smog equipment I had on the car before tearing the engine apart was a seized air pump. Nope, it's not going back on. The car will need to pass an emissions check, but only an exhaust test, no visual. So as long as it's tuned properly it should pass. If worse comes to worse I'll put cats on there.

Glenn, don't congratulate me until it's running!

I was asking about the pistons because they look like flattops but with nice large sized valve reliefs perfect for larger aftermarket valves. That and it looks like they sit much higher in the bore than the stockers.... a visual guess from your pictures, I'd say approx .025 down in the hole? With .020 milled off the E7's and that higher piston height, I bet you'll have a little better quench. :nice:
Did my 1st port job on some 66 289 heads. After a trashed Dremel and a pile of trashed deburring bits later, I had a pretty nice set. Although the following set got ported by my machinist immediately after he said "Eh, just a hundred extra with a rebuild..." SOLD!! :D
 
I should add that this project was intended to be a basic rebuild, not an all out race motor. But I ended up adding a few parts here and there that were maybe overkill for a "basic" rebuild. Things like ARP main studs and the roller rockers. For my goals I just didn't see a need for decking the block. The compression ratio should be around 9.3:1 and I wouldn't want to go much higher.
 
Vince said:
Why should I have?

Decking the block should be standard issue on any motor rebuild. You'd be surprised how many blocks we come across that are warped and in need of being squared. Even when we build motors with new blocks from Ford, they are not square. Given the SBF's legendary head gasket issues, it's always a good idea to do it. Plus you want a fresh surface for the gaskets to seal. The top of your block needs some serious cleanup as it is, and using a whizwheel can give you an uneven deck surface. Since you didn't deck the block, I would strongly suggest using an MLS (multi-layer steel) head gasket.
 
What you're saying makes sense...decking the block would have been good insurance against a leaky head gasket. But on a previous 302 rebuild I didn't deck the block or mill the heads & everything was fine. On this one the block surface is no worse, I've got better head gaskets and head bolts (the gaskets called for extra torque on the 5 upper head bolts), and a fresh surface on the heads. Also my compression ratio isn't very high. So I'm not too worried.

Just curious, from what you've seen of SBFs and leaky head gaskets, is this more common with aluminum heads or do you see it with cast iron heads too?
 
Vince said:
What you're saying makes sense...decking the block would have been good insurance against a leaky head gasket. But on a previous 302 rebuild I didn't deck the block or mill the heads & everything was fine. On this one the block surface is no worse, I've got better head gaskets and head bolts (the gaskets called for extra torque on the 5 upper head bolts), and a fresh surface on the heads. Also my compression ratio isn't very high. So I'm not too worried.

Just curious, from what you've seen of SBFs and leaky head gaskets, is this more common with aluminum heads or do you see it with cast iron heads too?

I've built some 302s without decking or milling the heads either, with no problems, but that doesnt mean ALL engine buildups will come out nicely as well. Milling and decking is just cheap insurance, otherwise, it's just hit or miss.

On my current 302(332) I drilled and tapped the block for 1/2" head bolts,(351W size) and I used O-ringed heads/gaskets, too. I like a lot of insurance when I'm revving the hell out of a motor!
 
Decking is always a good idea when going through a rebuild. And i can just about guarantee that your machinist buzzed .001-.003 off the decks as this is standard procedure at any shop (at least around here) on a typical shortblock build.
Usually when somebody mentions they've 'decked' the block they mean they excessively cut down the deck .010+ in order to gain compression. Usually shops charge extra (not much more) for this procedure. There's certainly no reason to cut excessive material off a pre-'73 and post '78 blocks. Now on '74-'77 blocks, i'd consider it as their deck heights are ridiculous. :notnice:

Your ratio, if correct, is a really great street compression ratio. :nice: What bumpstick (cam) are you planning on using?
 
Dano78 said:
Decking is always a good idea when going through a rebuild. And i can just about guarantee that your machinist buzzed .001-.003 off the decks as this is standard procedure at any shop (at least around here) on a typical shortblock build.
Usually when somebody mentions they've 'decked' the block they mean they excessively cut down the deck .010+ in order to gain compression. Usually shops charge extra (not much more) for this procedure. There's certainly no reason to cut excessive material off a pre-'73 and post '78 blocks. Now on '74-'77 blocks, i'd consider it as their deck heights are ridiculous. :notnice:

Your ratio, if correct, is a really great street compression ratio. :nice: What bumpstick (cam) are you planning on using?

Argh! I'd never take off the deck to gain compression, a taller deck is just a good excuse to run longer rods!