Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

For anyone like me reading this thread and learning from my mistakes, to set the dowels in to the flywheel, put a 1/4" socket over the dowels and hammer the socket. Don't do what I did and hammer the dowel :)
 
A lot of them are not hex keyed the entire length of the socket wrench so if you cut it down you will effectively cut the "wrench" part off the tool and will be left with just a socket.
 
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Most cheapies are broached for the 5/8 hex pretty deep,I have a junk drawer in my cart with probably 10 different ones cut down, walls cut out etc... The Hex on the end for a wrench, if your cutting that side you need some better PPE because the fumes got to ya . You should see what they want for the sectioned plug sockets they sell for ls's. And there China made lol $80-100 for 2 plug sockets https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow301150


A cheapy chome socket, a die grinder and hose clamp does the same thing
 
What I [really] need is a socket bandolier. :chin


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:think:
 
Well, keeping up with the Olympics theme, I'm on to my next hurdle.

Was trying to install the manual transmission last night while laying on my back with the help of a buddy, but it's a pain- even though I have it tied to a jack. First, the fork would come out and the throw out bearing would move out of alignment. Ended up bungeeing the fork and holding the throw out bearing with my finger to get the transmission shaft in. In the end, we wrangled the transmission in. The transmission mount fit on the tranny bolts. The transmission holes to bell housing holes line up and I put 3 bolts in hand tight to keep everything aligned, however, there's about a 1/2"-1" gap still between the transmission and the bell housing that I just can't close. Putting a socket on the engine and spinning it, I'm able to verify that the rear of the transmission that connects to the drive shaft spins. So the splines are in?

I looked at some videos after, it seems that people put a crowbar on the fork and press on it like they're pressing the clutch paddle, but from what I recall, there was no resistance to the fork when I moved it by hand, but maybe my memory is bad. Any tips for tonight to close that last gap?
 
That is the distance the input shaft nose is about that long, the nose is not lined up to the throw out bearing, need to push the fork so the disc unloads, the trans will slip in then with a little wiggling.
NOTE: do not use the bolts to force the trans home, you will damage the throw out bearing.
 
Did you make sure the input shaft bearing fit on the input shaft??
I Had problems with transmission install too although it was out of the car ( easier ) and I had slid the new input bearing over the input shaft so I knew it fit.. ... My neighbor, he is only 63, and I grunted around for a while, even tying a strap to my cherry picker to hold the trans while we " wiggled" it....
I ended up taking the bell OFF the engine and bolting the trans to the bell and attaching it that way to the engine block..... Went on like butter... Not really sure why? One nice thing about this way, was the TOB and the fork were already on the input shaft and I didn't have to fight them coming loose or falling off......I even took a pic of the strap helping.......
DSCF0880.JPG
 
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That is the distance the input shaft nose is about that long, the nose is not lined up to the throw out bearing, need to push the fork so the disc unloads, the trans will slip in then with a little wiggling.
NOTE: do not use the bolts to force the trans home, you will damage the throw out bearing.
Thank you for the tip. It was spot on!
 
Did you make sure the input shaft bearing fit on the input shaft??
I Had problems with transmission install too although it was out of the car ( easier ) and I had slid the new input bearing over the input shaft so I knew it fit.. ... My neighbor, he is only 63, and I grunted around for a while, even tying a strap to my cherry picker to hold the trans while we " wiggled" it....
I ended up taking the bell OFF the engine and bolting the trans to the bell and attaching it that way to the engine block..... Went on like butter... Not really sure why? One nice thing about this way, was the TOB and the fork were already on the input shaft and I didn't have to fight them coming loose or falling off......I even took a pic of the strap helping.......
DSCF0880.JPG

yea, laying under the car on your back and lifting your neck up is quite the exercise. Sure beats a gym membership :)
 
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Morning!

Trying to figure out where the harness that connects to the starter and 02 sensors mounts to. The harness has 2 metal mounts and I don't recall where those go. Also, how's it routed if anyone has photos from under the engine.

Thank you!
Julian
 
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I did mine a few months(?) ago, goes from the solenoid down and over to the engine, the hanger with the twist in it should bolt to a boss on the timing cover on that side, comes around the front of the oil pan and that hanger will bolt to the side of the engine, I ran mine between the engine mount and the block back to the starter.
I'll try to get a pick but it's kinda crowded around there.