SN95 Engine Refresh Advice Wanted

RaggedGT · Dec 5, 2017

I mentioned in my no progress-progress thread that I wanted to pull the engine out of my ‘95 GT while the transmission is off being rebuilt .
I’m having the original transmission that’s currently not in the car (long story lol.) rebuilt,I’ll be dropping it off with the builder in January.
I plan to pull the motor after Christmas ,right now I’m trying to research and compile a parts list for some small performance upgrades,and mostly drivability upgrades.
The current 5.0 is a 0.30 over stock block/stock bottom end engine with e7 heads,leaky shorty headers and a letter cam that does not play nice with the computer.
The main reason for the refresh is I want to do a H/C/I swap and fix the oil leaks.
My intentions for the car are just to make it a driver with a mild hope for a 300HP goal

The parts list I have come up with so far (which is subject to change depending on the suggestions of the collective.)

• Mountaineer GT40 upper/lower intake.
(Owned.)

•GT40 cylinder heads.
(Owned. In storage somewhere.)

•Fel Pro gasket set.
(Recommendations?)

•ARP Head bolts.

•New lifters.
(Recommendations?)

•And rocker arms.
(Recommendations?)

•Tfs 1 Cam.

•Cloyes timing chain.

RaggedGT · Dec 5, 2017

I also plan to put on a set of long tube headers.
(Owned,not these pictured,but very similar.)

Looking at an X pipe .
(Recommendations?)

And I would like to add in a set of High flow converters.

And when I get the freshly rebuilt aode back,id like to add an external cooler.

I remember reading somewhere on here about adding high heat resistant magnets in the oil pan to help keep debri in check-maybe @jrichker said it ?? I’d like to add a couple if I can find ‘em.

And it could really use a good detailing.

So that’s where I am at folks. Ideas? Insights? Advice?

TOOLOW91 · Dec 5, 2017

9333pt1 for head gaskets .

1pc oil pan gasket

Ptfe style rear main seal

I like Harland sharp rockers . Scorpions I know guys use too and work but may be on the noisy side .

Frpp lifters work I have had them over 7k rpm

Also I'd get the rubber style valve cover gaskets over the cork ones in that kit

I believe Alex parts sells springs for that cam to go with your heads.

RaggedGT · Dec 5, 2017

TOOLOW91 said:
9333pt1 for head gaskets .

1pc oil pan gasket

Ptfe style rear main seal

I like Harland sharp rockers . Scorpions I know guys use too and work but may be on the noisy side .

Frpp lifters work I have had them over 7k rpm

Also I'd get the rubber style valve cover gaskets over the cork ones in that kit

I believe Alex parts sells springs for that cam to go with your heads.

would you recommend these rockers? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s4003/overview/make/ford

and this valve spring kit? https://www.alexsparts.com/sb-ford-gt40p-drop-in-valve-springs-kit-hyd-roller-580-lift/
Thanks jeff

revhead347 · Dec 5, 2017

RaggedGT said:
would you recommend these rockers? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s4003/overview/make/ford

and this valve spring kit? https://www.alexsparts.com/sb-ford-gt40p-drop-in-valve-springs-kit-hyd-roller-580-lift/
Thanks jeff

Probably better to just get pedastal mount rockers on stock heads. They are easier to install, and less hassle.

Kurt

General karthief · Dec 5, 2017

Sounds like a plan to me
Get after it, I mean after the holidays of course.

TOOLOW91 · Dec 5, 2017

RaggedGT said:
would you recommend these rockers? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s4003/overview/make/ford

and this valve spring kit? https://www.alexsparts.com/sb-ford-gt40p-drop-in-valve-springs-kit-hyd-roller-580-lift/
Thanks jeff

Like Revhead said you'll want a pedestal mount instead of a stud mount rocker it will be much easier .

I think those springs should do the trick

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 5, 2017

I guess it depends on what your long term goals are.
For me rockers have always required that the stock pedestals be milled away, and then you use studs, guide plates, and hardened pushrods.
$$$.
But that would be the forward thinking Raggedy, planning one day to change over to an aluminum head. The rationale being that Having all this stuff now makes the future conversion so much easier on the budget.

But,....

If all you ever envision is a certain power limit using those GT 40 heads, and you stick with it, then save the money, buy the pedestal rockers, and build to that end.

$.

Whatever you do,...do not use the stock timing chain you have pictured. It'll be a worn out timing chain well before you decide to change out the cam.

And I'm the one with the magnets in the pan,..and Jrichker is the guy that'll tell you where to get them.

General karthief · Dec 5, 2017

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
Here ya go, thanks to jrichker

RaggedGT · Dec 6, 2017

revhead347 said:
Probably better to just get pedastal mount rockers on stock heads. They are easier to install, and less hassle.

Kurt

Thanks man,I’ve found a few different pedestal mount 1.6 sets,including the Harand Sharps Jeff recommends. Pretty sure that’s the route I’m going to go.

TOOLOW91 said:
Like Revhead said you'll want a pedestal mount instead of a stud mount rocker it will be much easier .

I think those springs should do the trick

Thanks again

madmike1157 said:
I guess it depends on what your long term goals are.
For me rockers have always required that the stock pedestals be milled away, and then you use studs, guide plates, and hardened pushrods.
$$$.
But that would be the forward thinking Raggedy, planning one day to change over to an aluminum head. The rationale being that Having all this stuff now makes the future conversion so much easier on the budget.

But,....

If all you ever envision is a certain power limit using those GT 40 heads, and you stick with it, then save the money, buy the pedestal rockers, and build to that end.

$.

Whatever you do,...do not use the stock timing chain you have pictured. It'll be a worn out timing chain well before you decide to change out the cam.

And I'm the one with the magnets in the pan,..and Jrichker is the guy that'll tell you where to get them.

Waay back when I got the car,I had dreams of aluminum heads,Big cam,blower, Holley efi etc. even was collecting parts (not the gt40 parts I have now lol.) but after two transmissions,three years of being parked . I just want to drive it. And have it as reliable a driver as it can be. What timing chain would you recommend? Thanks mike

karthief said:
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D82SH
Here ya go, thanks to jrichker

Awesome, thanks man

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 6, 2017

RaggedGT said:
Thanks man,I’ve found a few different pedestal mount 1.6 sets,including the Harand Sharps Jeff recommends. Pretty sure that’s the route I’m going to go.

Thanks again

Waay back when I got the car,I had dreams of aluminum heads,Big cam,blower, Holley efi etc. even was collecting parts (not the gt40 parts I have now lol.) but after two transmissions,three years of being parked . I just want to drive it. And have it as reliable a driver as it can be. What timing chain would you recommend? Thanks mike

Awesome, thanks man

Any of a number of double true roller chain sets..

Mustang5L5 · Dec 6, 2017

Double roller. That one you pictured isn't a double roller. Cloyes makes a really good one

I'm going with a new set of FRpP lifters with my build. They make two different ones. R302 is stock, h302 has a ceramic check vskve for higher RPM. Unsure if that's really necessary on a gt40 head setup.

I got the R302s

Mstng93SSP · Dec 6, 2017

Don't know if this was mentioned as I skimmed through this. You said ARP head bolts but I would use ARP head studs, not head bolts. If you change heads in the future it's easier with the studs. At least I think it is.

Chris

revhead347 · Dec 6, 2017

Mstng93SSP said:
Don't know if this was mentioned as I skimmed through this. You said ARP head bolts but I would use ARP head studs, not head bolts. If you change heads in the future it's easier with the studs. At least I think it is.

Chris

I'd have to agree with this. The difference in price is negligible in the scheme of things. The strength difference in the studs isn't an issue for your setup, but the studs make it easier to install. With the studs you put the teflon on the bottom thread, and lube up the top thread. Gives you much more accurate torque when you screw it down. With bolts you have to put the telflon on the only thread you have, and it can throw off the torque a little. ARP only offers bolts because some of the older cars (Old Mustang, Maverick, etc) don't have much space between the strut towers, and you don't have enough room to put the heads on after the studs are installed. It's obviously not an issue on a late model Mustang; all kinds of room.

Kurt

RaggedGT · Dec 9, 2017

GT40 questions for you guys-
I have the intake,elbow and throttle body from the mountaineer. Is the mountaineer throttle body much of an upgrade to my stock throttle body?
I have the mountaineer fuel rails,but only a few of the injectors, would it be worth it to get the rest of the injectors from the junk yard,or just use my current injectors?

RangerJoe · Dec 9, 2017

I believe the mountaineer throttle body is either a 60 or 65 14mm, it is bigger than the mustang, but it needs to be missed to work. There are some write ups on it.

Joe

90sickfox · Dec 9, 2017

The rails will only work if your fuel lines run on the passenger side like a 4 cylinder. Even then you have to make custom lines from the body fuel lines past the exhaust and to the truck lines.

Unless you're turbo like me...still made custom lines but worked out perfect.

Chuckman · Dec 9, 2017

i guess im the only one who doesnt want to lift a heavy iron head over studs and find bolts easier? weird. the whole ptfe/lube thing is a bit of a moot point on a low-end build like this btw, the ptfe will still lube the threads enough for an accurate enough torque reading with the average torque wrench. now if you were doing a big 100hp+ build, yes its more important (you'd also want better torque measuring tools than what most home shops have)

the explorer/mountaineer tb is 65mm, and would be about the right size for a gt40 setup after you adapt the linkage (theres a writeup around there somewhere by either jrichter or tmoss). use the mustang rails, injectors can be either/or, theyre both 19lb, the explorer ones are updated with a better spray pattern but either will run fine.

id avoid the gasket "kits" and just piece together what you need, the kits dont always (ever really) come with the best available quality for every surface. fel-pro 9333 for heads, 93334 or 1250s3 for the lower intake, os34508r pan, vs13264t valve covers, either fel-pro timing gasket.

i used the stock mustang rockers and lifters back with my gt40 setup, rollers are fine if you feel like spending the money, but a stud conversion imo is more money than its worth. either way, measure for pushrod length, i needed the next .050" longer (and a pedestal shim kit cause youll probably only need .020-.030" longer for proper geometry but pusrods come in .050 increments) with my tfs1/gt40 setup to get the rockers quiet.

timing chain, ive used billet ones from tfs (was in the top end kit) and one from cloyes, the cloyes fit better and tighter, very burr-tastic though. you want double roller (even in a stock setup), timing advance/retard is......meh, up to you, and how much effort you want to put into double checking and measuring.

RaggedGT · Dec 9, 2017

90sickfox said:
The rails will only work if your fuel lines run on the passenger side like a 4 cylinder. Even then you have to make custom lines from the body fuel lines past the exhaust and to the truck lines.

Unless you're turbo like me...still made custom lines but worked out perfect.

I know I brought up the mountaineer rails-but the question I meant to ask was reguarding the injectors,I’ve seen a lot of people say explorer/mountaineer injectors have a better spray pattern/efficiency
lol . Thanks man,as always I appreciate your help

Chuckman said:
i guess im the only one who doesnt want to lift a heavy iron head over studs and find bolts easier? weird. the whole ptfe/lube thing is a bit of a moot point on a low-end build like this btw, the ptfe will still lube the threads enough for an accurate enough torque reading with the average torque wrench. now if you were doing a big 100hp+ build, yes its more important (you'd also want better torque measuring tools than what most home shops have)

the explorer/mountaineer tb is 65mm, and would be about the right size for a gt40 setup after you adapt the linkage (theres a writeup around there somewhere by either jrichter or tmoss). use the mustang rails, injectors can be either/or, theyre both 19lb, the explorer ones are updated with a better spray pattern but either will run fine.

id avoid the gasket "kits" and just piece together what you need, the kits dont always (ever really) come with the best available quality for every surface. fel-pro 9333 for heads, 93334 or 1250s3 for the lower intake, os34508r pan, vs13264t valve covers, either fel-pro timing gasket.

i used the stock mustang rockers and lifters back with my gt40 setup, rollers are fine if you feel like spending the money, but a stud conversion imo is more money than its worth. either way, measure for pushrod length, i needed the next .050" longer (and a pedestal shim kit cause youll probably only need .020-.030" longer for proper geometry but pusrods come in .050 increments) with my tfs1/gt40 setup to get the rockers quiet.

timing chain, ive used billet ones from tfs (was in the top end kit) and one from cloyes, the cloyes fit better and tighter, very burr-tastic though. you want double roller (even in a stock setup), timing advance/retard is......meh, up to you, and how much effort you want to put into double checking and measuring.

Good info,thank you. I like the idea of ARP studs,and installing them and the heads with the engine outta the car probably isn’t bad. But I was leaning towards bolts Incase down the road I ever have to pull a head with it in the car lol.
I found a cloyes double roller set I’m goung to order,and I gave up on the gasket set. Will piece one together.
I may look into reusing my stock rockers-they really only have like 15K on ‘em since the last re fresh.
How did you like the tfs1 and GT40’s?

RaggedGT · Dec 9, 2017

RangerJoe said:
I believe the mountaineer throttle body is either a 60 or 65 14mm, it is bigger than the mustang, but it needs to be missed to work. There are some write ups on it.

Joe

Thanks man- I know the explorer/mountaineer Tb is 65mm, and the stock Tb on my ‘94 is 60mm.
So I guess my question is- would it be worth converting the 65mm to work with the 60mm’s linkage?

SN95 Engine Refresh Advice Wanted

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

I leave the horn on while driving

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency