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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

engine removal, where to hook chain?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mikec35
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2006

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
2
19
NC
Mar 24, 2006
#1
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #1
Going to remove my 351w this weekend. I do not have an intake plate. If I buy some 3/8" grade 8 bolts, the ones that fit in the front of the head, will they be strong enough to lift the motor. Thinking of running one chain bolted to the lower front drivers side head across to the lower back of the passenger side head. Will this work or does anyone have a better suggestion? thx.. Mike
 
1

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
0
16
Mar 24, 2006
#2
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #2
i used a balance thing when i took mine out. I bolted the L bracket's to the top of my intake manifold with some grade 5 bolts and it worked perfect. It helps quite a bit when removing the engine.

 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
Mar 24, 2006
#3
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #3
Are the lift plates missing from the exhaust manifolds? What you are suggesting will work but makes it a little wobbly.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Mar 24, 2006
#4
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #4
Use the exhaust manifold ends, but buy 1" longer "grade 8" bolts to replace the current bolts that are already there.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
2
19
NC
Mar 24, 2006
#5
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #5
No exhaust manifolds.. Had headers that I took off..Aren't the exhaust manifold bolts 5/16"?
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
Mar 24, 2006
#6
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #6
bolts in the end of the heads will work (assuming you have firewall clearance), exhaust manifold/header bolts work well also, as do intake manifold bolts. 5/16 bolts are adequate, though they might bend, they won't break, only about 250/300lbs shear acting on them, well within the safety zone for a bolt in good condition.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Mar 24, 2006
#7
  • Mar 24, 2006
  • #7
Shoot, back in the day, we didn't have any fancy lifting plates or balancers and we'd pull 302's with the C4 attached with just a chain on the front driver's side and the rear pass side like you say and had no problems, you need to c*o*c*k (that's not always a dirty word) the cherry picker a little sideways to make up for the torque the chain puts on it. If you had one of those double swivel things that you could run the chain thru and hook the picker hook thru the other ring, that would take out the torque.
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Mar 27, 2006
#8
  • Mar 27, 2006
  • #8
oh, I wish I had a pic hosted. I hooked mine to the front head and the back of the other head....pulled out the engine and C4 all at the same time.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
2
19
NC
Mar 27, 2006
#9
  • Mar 27, 2006
  • #9
I bought a $20 load leveler from Harbor Freight tools and hooked it to the 4 corners. Used my 1000lb electric winch hooked to a metal bar across the rafters and it came right out. I also supported the metal bar on both ends using pressure treated 2x4's running from the rafters to the floor. Worked great!
 

XXBULLETSXX

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
301
0
0
Kannapolis, NC
Mar 27, 2006
#10
  • Mar 27, 2006
  • #10
I bolted a chain to the front of one head and the back of the other head. I used a load balancer just cause, didn't really need it but it did help a little.

Heres some pics that show the engine coming out.





Good luck!!
 

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69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 27, 2006
#11
  • Mar 27, 2006
  • #11
I always use a load leveler when I am pulling and installing it with a tranny. Otherwise, I just use one chain, going diagonally from the front pass cyl head to the rear of the driver cyl head on the accessory mounts. Works just fine, and is very stable.
 
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