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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Engine Sitting For A Yr, What To Do To Start It?

  • Thread starter Thread starter terdog
  • Start date Start date Jun 17, 2012
T

terdog

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Jun 17, 2012
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#1
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #1
Allright, dont bash me too hard, but my 88 5.0 has been sitting in the garage for 1 1/2 yrs.

Originally she lost the fuel pump, the top was toast, the clutch was worn and the brakes were warped. So, she got parked until I had some time and money to give her.

I replaced the front rotors/pads/bearings. Now its time to replace the fuel pump/ sending unit. At that point, Id like to fire her up.

My concern is that the oil has drained off the pistons to the point that Ill score the cylinders starting her up .Id like some advice on re-starting her. Ive allways used M1 syn oil.

Thoughts?
 

Gearbanger 101

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#2
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #2
My thoughts....prime the fuel pump a few times and let her fly. There will be enough residual oil in the bearings that it's not going to hurt anything. Engines aren't "that" fragile.
 
T

terdog

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#3
  • Jun 17, 2012
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Brian,

Thanks for your input.

Part of what has me thinking, is a past experience.

I had a 87 F150 when I lived in South Lake Tahoe. It would sit for days sometimes in the winter. When I would go to start it, in the cold temps, I could hear oil starvation knock for 15-30 seconds. I then switched from reg to syn (M1) oil and that stopped.

While those circumstances are different, they are similar enough to make me think.
 

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
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Jun 17, 2012
#4
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #4
You could rotate the engine by hand with a large ratchet off the crank pulley if you wanted. Otherwise, I would just crank it as well.
 
T

terdog

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  • Jun 17, 2012
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Thanks Nick.

Just curious, what would turning it over by hand do? Im thinking that oil flow is the most important need, would hand turning do anything substantial?
Or are thinking that it would just prove that shes not stuck?
 

foxna6

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Jun 17, 2012
#6
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #6
I would unhook the coil and crank it a few time to prime the oil pump and move some oil around before I just let it start then plug it back in and let it rip there really should be no problem with it as people start engines that have set 20 or 30 years
 
T

terdog

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#7
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #7
I was considering that, or even shooting some oil down the plug holes and cranking it.
I think that Ill change the oil 1st, so that shes pumping clean fresh oil right off the bat, and not some sludge.
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
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Jun 17, 2012
#8
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #8
if you put anything down the plugs it should be that old school red magic oil or whatever its called. a year and half is not long at all I would just swap the oil let it crank for a couple seconds and hook everything up and watch all the mouse food fly out the tail pipes

top off the tank with some 93 octane as well
 

Gearbanger 101

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#9
  • Jun 17, 2012
  • #9
A lot of builders will often pre-lube a new engine by pulling the distributor, and priming the pump with an old distributor shaft on the end of a drill. As I stated earlier, it's probably not necessary in your case, but this would be the "best" way to circulate oil pre start up if you're really worried about it.
 
T

terdog

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#10
  • Jun 17, 2012
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Thanks guys.

I dont know about the mice. My pipes are pretty far gone, not much of a home for them.
 

old_blue

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#11
  • Jun 17, 2012
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I agree with taking out the distributor and priming the oil pump with a drill good luck.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#12
  • Jun 18, 2012
  • #12
Mine sat 7 years before restarting.

Fresh oil change, yanked out plugs and put a syringe of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. Turned over by hand. Reinstalled plugs, took cool wire off and cranked engine over with starter for 15-20 seconds.

Replace wire and she fired right up.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
 

95BlueStallion

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Jun 18, 2012
#13
  • Jun 18, 2012
  • #13
terdog said:
Thanks Nick.

Just curious, what would turning it over by hand do? Im thinking that oil flow is the most important need, would hand turning do anything substantial?
Or are thinking that it would just prove that shes not stuck?
Click to expand...
I suggested the hand cranking because it would be slower, and a way to get the oil flow started without pulling the distributor and doing the drill trick. Plus as you crank it by hand, you can listen for any major metal on metal sounds. I really dont think you will have a problem with it, unless the engine had a problem before it was parked for that amount of time.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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Jun 20, 2012
#14
  • Jun 20, 2012
  • #14
Floor the gas pedal and crank it for a few seconds. Flooring the pedal will tell the ecu to give a no flood crank and shut off the injectors.
 
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