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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Engine starting problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter nmcgrawj
  • Start date Start date Jan 25, 2012

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 25, 2012
#1
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #1
Any ideas what can cause the engine to start, and idle. Then i cut it off. Then try to restart and it not start?

The car has idled long enough and the timing is dialer in at 10*. But when i go to restart it, it acts like it is out of time and just turns over.


Don't really want to just "throw parts at it" so if anyone has ever seen anything like this, let me know.
 

smilts

Member
Jun 18, 2011
104
0
16
Roaring Springs Tx
Jan 25, 2012
#2
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #2
when u try to restart it, have you checked to make sure your getting fuel?
 

xracer22

Active Member
Sep 27, 2007
102
18
29
york pa
Jan 25, 2012
#3
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #3
So it does restart eventually then? I'm guessing so. I have never had this problem but it seems to happen alot. The ignition module on the side of the fender will let the car start but once it heats up you have to wait for it to cool down before the car will start again. happens alot to foxbody guys more often cause it's mounted on the side of the distributor but our cars are on the pass side fender. The idle issue not to sure about though but without more info it's hard to diagnose
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 25, 2012
#4
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #4
Well i am not worried about the idle issue at this point. The way i worded the post gave unwanted attention to that issue lol

There is pressure in the rails...in terms of the injectors firing, i have not tested it. The spark plugs are not lacking fuel though.

Also, the car does not heat up enough to get that module hot. I barely have let it get hot enough to get the headers hot.



Long story, got in an accident a few years ago. Car sat for almost 2 years. I went to fire it up last year....no fuel pressure. Solved that issue. Worked on it off and on. Car still didnt fire. Decided to work on restabbing the distributor, finally got it to start....and idle....long enough to set the timing with my timing light. Cut the car off. Go to restart...no fire. This has happened on 2 occassions.


Thing is, before/after my accident the car ran like a champ. Seems like everything decided to take a #$@# when it was sitting for so long.
 
R

redsn95gt

Member
Aug 5, 2010
143
0
16
Jan 25, 2012
#5
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #5
Some ideas- Clean the ISC and MAF (with maf cleaner!), reset computer adaptive learning leaving neg battery terminal off for 20-30 mins. Still doesn't work, rent/buy a vac test gauge from auto store, check your pressure maybe theres a leak or bad hose. Gauge will give hints as to what it will be (leak/timing) written on the gauge.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 25, 2012
#6
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #6
redsn95gt said:
Some ideas- Clean the ISC and MAF (with maf cleaner!), reset computer adaptive learning leaving neg battery terminal off for 20-30 mins. Still doesn't work, rent/buy a vac test gauge from auto store, check your pressure maybe theres a leak or bad hose. Gauge will give hints as to what it will be (leak/timing) written on the gauge.
Click to expand...

None of those things will stop the car from trying to start....
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jan 25, 2012
#7
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #7
First I would suggest checking for DTC's. If I were to guess I would consider the PIP (Hall Effect sensor).
 

smilts

Member
Jun 18, 2011
104
0
16
Roaring Springs Tx
Jan 25, 2012
#8
  • Jan 25, 2012
  • #8
I'd go with the PIP as well for my guess.
 

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
Jan 26, 2012
#9
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #9
My 95 starts up nice and clean after sitting all night...but after driving it around it won't start up right away unless I floor the gas pedal and let off as soon as it fires. It does this if the car sits anywhere from 20 min to a few hours. I haven't had a chance to address it yet...it hasn't left me stranded so I'm not too worried about it. To me it seems like it's either spark or fuel related. I'm thinking that maybe the fuel rail is going dry after sitting...gonna replace the ingition coil next week so I'll look into it then.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jan 26, 2012
#10
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #10
I
Three50won said:
My 95 starts up nice and clean after sitting all night...but after driving it around it won't start up right away unless I floor the gas pedal and let off as soon as it fires. It does this if the car sits anywhere from 20 min to a few hours. I haven't had a chance to address it yet...it hasn't left me stranded so I'm not too worried about it. To me it seems like it's either spark or fuel related. I'm thinking that maybe the fuel rail is going dry after sitting...gonna replace the ingition coil next week so I'll look into it then.
Click to expand...

In case you aren't aware, pressing the gas pedal to the floor puts the ECU in "flood clear" mode by shutting off the injectors. I would check the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds. Check DTC's and test the ECT sensor is particular.Thinking if the ECT is failing the ECU may be adding extra fuel on start up as if it were cold start.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 26, 2012
#11
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #11
Three50won said:
My 95 starts up nice and clean after sitting all night...but after driving it around it won't start up right away unless I floor the gas pedal and let off as soon as it fires. It does this if the car sits anywhere from 20 min to a few hours. I haven't had a chance to address it yet...it hasn't left me stranded so I'm not too worried about it. To me it seems like it's either spark or fuel related. I'm thinking that maybe the fuel rail is going dry after sitting...gonna replace the ingition coil next week so I'll look into it then.
Click to expand...


When you turn the ignition on, it should prime the fuel rails. I have a gauge on mine.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 26, 2012
#12
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #12
toyman said:
First I would suggest checking for DTC's. If I were to guess I would consider the PIP (Hall Effect sensor).
Click to expand...


DTC's?
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jan 26, 2012
#13
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #13
nmcgrawj said:
DTC's?
Click to expand...

DTC's=Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The codes stored by the ECU when certain sensor signals are out outside the expected parameters. Hence the term "pulling codes".
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
16
49
Ashley, Ohio
Jan 26, 2012
#14
  • Jan 26, 2012
  • #14
Worn/dirty cap and/or rotor, possibly PIP sensor? Sitting that long, bad gas maybe??

When mine acted up, I always checked the "dumb" stuff first. Usually ended up being something minor that was causing the issue.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 29, 2012
#15
  • Jan 29, 2012
  • #15
toyman said:
DTC's=Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The codes stored by the ECU when certain sensor signals are out outside the expected parameters. Hence the term "pulling codes".
Click to expand...

Lol gotcha. In all my years I've never seen the abbreviation "dtc".

What code could possibly let the motor run, then not even attempt to fire?
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Jan 29, 2012
#16
  • Jan 29, 2012
  • #16
earleys94gt said:
Worn/dirty cap and/or rotor, possibly PIP sensor? Sitting that long, bad gas maybe??

When mine acted up, I always checked the "dumb" stuff first. Usually ended up being something minor that was causing the issue.
Click to expand...

Cap/rotor wasn't sitting on it that long. It is new. Pip sensor is in the dizzy right?

Gas has been put in.....I had the tank down trying to figure out a gas system issue prior to this.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jan 29, 2012
#17
  • Jan 29, 2012
  • #17
What code could possibly let the motor run, then not even attempt to fire?
Click to expand...

Codes control nothing, rather they are the result of a condition that causes the ECU to log an event. As far as something that can be on its way out giving an intermittent issue (engine running and then won't start) are many. Common problem areas are the PIP, TFI, coil, bad grounds, bad connections, etc. By pulling the codes you may be able to narrow the field.
 

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
Feb 1, 2012
#18
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #18
nmcgrawj said:
When you turn the ignition on, it should prime the fuel rails. I have a gauge on mine.
Click to expand...
Yes the fuel rails prime, but the engine doesn't start. It halfway starts and that's it...when I attempt it a second time it cranks for a few seconds before it finally starts. Any ideas...??
 

Three50won

10 Year Member
Jul 11, 2010
1,135
64
69
Feb 1, 2012
#19
  • Feb 1, 2012
  • #19
toyman said:
I


In case you aren't aware, pressing the gas pedal to the floor puts the ECU in "flood clear" mode by shutting off the injectors. I would check the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds. Check DTC's and test the ECT sensor is particular.Thinking if the ECT is failing the ECU may be adding extra fuel on start up as if it were cold start.
Click to expand...
I didn't know that, thanks for the info. Any ideas why this is the only way the engine starts up after sitting?
 
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