Build Thread Enola-Black Fox - Engine in working out the bugs

a91what

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My main concern right now is if I continue to space the motor up it will be hanging all out of the hood... I dont want that. Sure I could purchase a new hood with a larger cowl.... and it will look like a racecar.

I am hoping to gain significantly more clearance with a tubular K-member and not have to worry about these things... in my mind if i have to unbolt the K-member to add spacers to it I may as well replace it.
 
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a91what

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I only have about 45mins each morning to do any work on the car, this morning was very productive. I was able to get the calipers tied up out of the way, remove the steering rack, unhooked the swaybar and drop the A arms off the factory k-member. I did not remove the strut, the arm is fairly light so I left each side hanging with just the bolt holding one side of the arm. I am slightly concerned I did not order enough material to space the k member to the height I wanted.

My hope is that I can space a convertible mount just enough to clear the oil pan, but if the rack ends up the same distance I may as well use a standard mount. This will require I space the k an inch.

EDIT: just spoke with upr and they dont suggest spacing the k member more than 3/8 on a street car. Messes with the geometry too much. I suppose this is why the MM one has multiple holes for the A arm to correct geometry.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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As the k member comes down the steering shaft extends. Shouldn't be an issue.

Ive seen people space the k member to 1/2 inch without issues.

With that pan it shouldn't be hitting the rack. If your transmission is sitting on the trans mount it should allow the engine to tilt back raising the front enough to clear the rack.

Should clear....but we know all too well how that works out sometimes.
 

a91what

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Only had a short time this morning to work on the car, I got the k-member swapped out but have not squared it in the car yet. The factory A arms worked out just fine and I only had a small bit of difficulty with the driver side arm getting it in place. Overall I would say a difficulty of 4 to swap the K out overall. I did space it down 3/8 of an inch and after removing the crown from the oil pan I have around 3/16 clearance. Should be adequate.

There is so much room around the engine its unreal... i can almost drop the header in with the engine in place, once i lift the engine the header will be cake.. so much so that i wish i had not cut the flange to separate the pipes.

20191012_101601.jpg 20191012_121416.jpg
 

stanglx2002

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Sounds like you made shirt effort of the swap. It looks great, and can see the huge space increase that it gave you.
 
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