My main concern right now is if I continue to space the motor up it will be hanging all out of the hood... I dont want that. Sure I could purchase a new hood with a larger cowl.... and it will look like a racecar.
I am hoping to gain significantly more clearance with a tubular K-member and not have to worry about these things... in my mind if i have to unbolt the K-member to add spacers to it I may as well replace it.
I only have about 45mins each morning to do any work on the car, this morning was very productive. I was able to get the calipers tied up out of the way, remove the steering rack, unhooked the swaybar and drop the A arms off the factory k-member. I did not remove the strut, the arm is fairly light so I left each side hanging with just the bolt holding one side of the arm. I am slightly concerned I did not order enough material to space the k member to the height I wanted.
My hope is that I can space a convertible mount just enough to clear the oil pan, but if the rack ends up the same distance I may as well use a standard mount. This will require I space the k an inch.
EDIT: just spoke with upr and they dont suggest spacing the k member more than 3/8 on a street car. Messes with the geometry too much. I suppose this is why the MM one has multiple holes for the A arm to correct geometry.
Only had a short time this morning to work on the car, I got the k-member swapped out but have not squared it in the car yet. The factory A arms worked out just fine and I only had a small bit of difficulty with the driver side arm getting it in place. Overall I would say a difficulty of 4 to swap the K out overall. I did space it down 3/8 of an inch and after removing the crown from the oil pan I have around 3/16 clearance. Should be adequate.
There is so much room around the engine its unreal... i can almost drop the header in with the engine in place, once i lift the engine the header will be cake.. so much so that i wish i had not cut the flange to separate the pipes.