Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

Well i have made some progress this last week but dont have any pictures to show for it, hopefully i can get the little things done i have been working on. This part takes a long time, its the little things that take forever to get the way you want them, nobody really notices but you.
 
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Scrap bar stock turned into a bracket for the blower nose.
 
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Hmm I test fit the blower and torqued it into place to check clearances..... I may have caused my own meltdown... I frightened the adapter to 25 ftlbs and the blower would not spin.. uh oh that's not good.... as I backed the bolts off I checked it and sure enough the plate must be flexing and twisting the blower case...

I need to think on this one, if I use a sealant and lock washers then only tighten to crush the washer would that be sufficient?
@jrichker help please
 
Hmm I test fit the blower and torqued it into place to check clearances..... I may have caused my own meltdown... I frightened the adapter to 25 ftlbs and the blower would not spin.. uh oh that's not good.... as I backed the bolts off I checked it and sure enough the plate must be flexing and twisting the blower case...

I need to think on this one, if I use a sealant and lock washers then only tighten to crush the washer would that be sufficient?
@jrichker help please
It's time to get the machinist' blue out and check for flatness of the blower adapter plate when it is torqued down and ready to receive the blower. You may have some high and low spots that only appear when the adapter is torqued down to the manifold.
 
It's time to get the machinist' blue out and check for flatness of the blower adapter plate when it is torqued down and ready to receive the blower. You may have some high and low spots that only appear when the adapter is torqued down to the manifold.
With the adapter removed I am flat on both surfaces, the gasket surface is inboard of the bolts making the plate bend as it is tightened. To rule things out I stacked washers evenly on the mounting studs and re-torqued, no binding done this way. I may have to find a washer combination that fits with minimal clearance and simply rtv the adapter to the intake.

Pic for reference, the blower must be mounted to the plate first.
15291153839687847790035585033320.jpg
 
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Bah I win, one washer from the old arp head bolts with one 5/16 flat washer turned out to be perfect. The blower torques all the way down and the gasket even gets compressed (paper cut to fit) I can live with this outcome.


NEXT!
 
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With the adapter removed I am flat on both surfaces, the gasket surface is inboard of the bolts making the plate bend as it is tightened. To rule things out I stacked washers evenly on the mounting studs and re-torqued, no binding done this way. I may have to find a washer combination that fits with minimal clearance and simply rtv the adapter to the intake.

Pic for reference, the blower must be mounted to the plate first.
15291153839687847790035585033320.jpg
I'm glad you got the problem fixed steve.

That picture right there is just beautiful brother. You're an artist, well, except for that thermostat housing, take that out and it's perfect.
 
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Bah I win, one washer from the old arp head bolts with one 5/16 flat washer turned out to be perfect. The blower torques all the way down and the gasket even gets compressed (paper cut to fit) I can live with this outcome.


NEXT!
Are there any dowel pins that insure the alignment between the lower manifold, the adapter plate and the blower? If not you may find that under high RPM and boost that the blower wiggles around enough to be a problem. That "wiggle" if present probably won't cause any short term problems, but as you put time and mileage on the setup, it may show up as leaks and belt alignment problems. Depending in the bolt shanks to provide proper alignment isn't a good plan and especially if the threaded part of the stud or bolt has to be part of the alignment plan. Close tolerance bolts and reamed holes are common in aircraft engines to maintain alignment tolerances, but are not usually found in automotive applications.
 
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Are there any dowel pins that insure the alignment between the lower manifold, the adapter plate and the blower? If not you may find that under high RPM and boost that the blower wiggles around enough to be a problem. That "wiggle" if present probably won't cause any short term problems, but as you put time and mileage on the setup, it may show up as leaks and belt alignment problems. Depending in the bolt shanks to provide proper alignment isn't a good plan and especially if the threaded part of the stud or bolt has to be part of the alignment plan. Close tolerance bolts and reamed holes are common in aircraft engines to maintain alignment tolerances, but are not usually found in automotive applications.
The short answer is no, the adapter fits very snugly in place. The blower/adapter bolts have no clearance at all and are Allen head bolts that are counter sunk in the aluminum plate. I will consider drilling the adapter for a few dowels (will roll pins work?) However the intake is already torqued in place and the gaskets are rather expensive.

If you missed it I am fabricating a blower snout support at the moment if I have room (and materials) I may make a cap to hold the snout in place to minimize movement/deflection

Thanks for the input!
 
I'm glad you got the problem fixed steve.

That picture right there is just beautiful brother. You're an artist, well, except for that thermostat housing, take that out and it's perfect.
Thanks Dave I just take the glamour shots is all.
Once i put hoses on the t stat housing no one will know its ugly on the inside.
 
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snout support is in place and the blower bolted down, next I am going to preload the support and watch for pulley deflection with an angle finder. Once i achieve preload i will drill/tap/countersink a 3/8 bolt to hold the bracket into place. This will hopefully eliminate the fulcrum effect that increases pulley deflection under boost, and help keep my gaskets in place.
 
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Have you thought of flipping the fuel rails so the FPR is on the driver's side out of your way?
Yes I have considered that option, I am waiting to see if it is necessary. When I assembled the rails the fittings were put in very tight and with a thread locker/sealer I use on JIC fittings, its E100 safe but turns into concrete... may as well epoxy the fittings in. So I dont wanna fight with them unless I have to...