And I've run out of popcorn!
Scrap bar stock turned into a bracket for the blower nose.
It's time to get the machinist' blue out and check for flatness of the blower adapter plate when it is torqued down and ready to receive the blower. You may have some high and low spots that only appear when the adapter is torqued down to the manifold.Hmm I test fit the blower and torqued it into place to check clearances..... I may have caused my own meltdown... I frightened the adapter to 25 ftlbs and the blower would not spin.. uh oh that's not good.... as I backed the bolts off I checked it and sure enough the plate must be flexing and twisting the blower case...
I need to think on this one, if I use a sealant and lock washers then only tighten to crush the washer would that be sufficient?
@jrichker help please
With the adapter removed I am flat on both surfaces, the gasket surface is inboard of the bolts making the plate bend as it is tightened. To rule things out I stacked washers evenly on the mounting studs and re-torqued, no binding done this way. I may have to find a washer combination that fits with minimal clearance and simply rtv the adapter to the intake.It's time to get the machinist' blue out and check for flatness of the blower adapter plate when it is torqued down and ready to receive the blower. You may have some high and low spots that only appear when the adapter is torqued down to the manifold.
I'm glad you got the problem fixed steve.With the adapter removed I am flat on both surfaces, the gasket surface is inboard of the bolts making the plate bend as it is tightened. To rule things out I stacked washers evenly on the mounting studs and re-torqued, no binding done this way. I may have to find a washer combination that fits with minimal clearance and simply rtv the adapter to the intake.
Pic for reference, the blower must be mounted to the plate first.
Are there any dowel pins that insure the alignment between the lower manifold, the adapter plate and the blower? If not you may find that under high RPM and boost that the blower wiggles around enough to be a problem. That "wiggle" if present probably won't cause any short term problems, but as you put time and mileage on the setup, it may show up as leaks and belt alignment problems. Depending in the bolt shanks to provide proper alignment isn't a good plan and especially if the threaded part of the stud or bolt has to be part of the alignment plan. Close tolerance bolts and reamed holes are common in aircraft engines to maintain alignment tolerances, but are not usually found in automotive applications.Bah I win, one washer from the old arp head bolts with one 5/16 flat washer turned out to be perfect. The blower torques all the way down and the gasket even gets compressed (paper cut to fit) I can live with this outcome.
NEXT!
The short answer is no, the adapter fits very snugly in place. The blower/adapter bolts have no clearance at all and are Allen head bolts that are counter sunk in the aluminum plate. I will consider drilling the adapter for a few dowels (will roll pins work?) However the intake is already torqued in place and the gaskets are rather expensive.Are there any dowel pins that insure the alignment between the lower manifold, the adapter plate and the blower? If not you may find that under high RPM and boost that the blower wiggles around enough to be a problem. That "wiggle" if present probably won't cause any short term problems, but as you put time and mileage on the setup, it may show up as leaks and belt alignment problems. Depending in the bolt shanks to provide proper alignment isn't a good plan and especially if the threaded part of the stud or bolt has to be part of the alignment plan. Close tolerance bolts and reamed holes are common in aircraft engines to maintain alignment tolerances, but are not usually found in automotive applications.
Thanks Dave I just take the glamour shots is all.I'm glad you got the problem fixed steve.
That picture right there is just beautiful brother. You're an artist, well, except for that thermostat housing, take that out and it's perfect.
Yes I have considered that option, I am waiting to see if it is necessary. When I assembled the rails the fittings were put in very tight and with a thread locker/sealer I use on JIC fittings, its E100 safe but turns into concrete... may as well epoxy the fittings in. So I dont wanna fight with them unless I have to...Have you thought of flipping the fuel rails so the FPR is on the driver's side out of your way?
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