so its not just me then.
I am going to make some baffles while I am in there and find a way to seal the bulkhead fittings better, they seem to get a bit of oily residue around them as well... I am thinking I will just remove the nylon gaskets they send with them and use a heavy dose of RTV when I wrench them tight. I dont have access to a welder capable of aluminum.... I could just put alum wire in mine but I dont have the right gas for it.
I need to come up with a plan to finalize the pcv system in this build.
Currently I have no baffles... Bad idea lots of oil issues. I also have my oil return from the turbos dumping into the driver valve cover. Another bad idea, I think I may be getting some aeration of the oil. After a few pulls or a long drive my oil pressure begins to drop, nothing crazy just something I noticed.
I plan to move the oil return to the oil pan.
While I have the valve covers off make some baffles, now my issue is that I want a closed pcv system... This is fine under normal conditions but under boost I have nowhere to vent too unless I run a line all the way back to the turbos and use some kind of pump... I was thinking of using a gm or Ford electric smog pump for this purpose.
Thoughts?
Currently I have no baffles... Bad idea lots of oil issues. I also have my oil return from the turbos dumping into the driver valve cover. Another bad idea, I think I may be getting some aeration of the oil. After a few pulls or a long drive my oil pressure begins to drop, nothing crazy just something I noticed.
I plan to move the oil return to the oil pan.
While I have the valve covers off make some baffles, now my issue is that I want a closed pcv system... This is fine under normal conditions but under boost I have nowhere to vent too unless I run a line all the way back to the turbos and use some kind of pump... I was thinking of using a gm or Ford electric smog pump for this purpose.
Thoughts?
I'm using a catch can and have the bulkheads in the front of the covers. I dont get a ton of stuff in the can. I would definitely reroute the oil return. there's already enough oil trying to get back to the pan as it is. My leak was lower rear of the cover, right where it prob. pools up as its draining.
I am considering this oil cooler kit, does anyone have opinions on the matter? Is there something out there just as good for less?
Oil Cooler Kit, fits Ford Mustang 5.0L 1979-1993
The Fox Body Mustang is well known for its lightweight chassis & powerful drive train. High-powered NA, turbocharged, & supercharged vehicles produce an abundance of unwanted heat under the hood, which accelerates oil breakdown & engine wear. Protec
I am at the point right now that I have money from tuning cars.... I am a bit short on time to get this thing finished.
What can did you use and where did you mount it?
You can buy a cooler and piece it together on your own for way less.
My pcv side has a catch can and a check valve that keeps boost from going from the intake into the engine.
My breather tank from the valve cover is open air but when idling or during pulls vapors are pulled from the can through a hose that runs to my turbo inlet. Never any oil mist in that line. Haven't had any fume smells either. I see how that would be complicated in your set up.
My pcv side has a catch can and a check valve that keeps boost from going from the intake into the engine.
My breather tank from the valve cover is open air but when idling or during pulls vapors are pulled from the can through a hose that runs to my turbo inlet. Never any oil mist in that line. Haven't had any fume smells either. I see how that would be complicated in your set up.
I mounted mine on the pass side next to the radiator. Its just one i got off amazon. I did add ball valve on the bottom for easy draining. I'll see if i can find a picture, i can take one tonight if i don't have one now.
I decided to go with Evil energy oil cooler and catch can kits.. together they are still $150 cheaper than the single mishimoto item
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Is there perhaps something in the design of those gaskets that makes them seal correctly only on stock and/or cast iron heads?
I'm pretty sure everyone in here complaining about them is running aluminum heads.