Contour the inside edges of that port job a little. Those sharp, abrupt edges can really break airflow. Some guys weld up, (or fill in with epoxy) the two secondary ports on the side for a little more performance, but it really makes the blower loud! The GEN III M90 that was on my old ALLEN kit was "S" ported by Magnuson Products and performed really well.
The engine was a PI swapped '96 4.6L SOHC and at about 9.5psi it put down 343rwph/389rwtq through a 4R70W and an independant rear suspension. The numbers weren't really high, but it had a big fat torque curve. It propelled my near 4,200lb (with driver) Mercury Cougar into mid/high-12's in the 110mph range on a regular basis.
Not mine, but this is someone's version of what an S-ported M90 looks like. Subtle changes, make a big difference in efficiency.
If you really wanted to step things up and start spinning one of these things, you could look into an MPx blower case. Those MPx blowers will spin to the moon....but then you've have moved out of the "free" zone.
The engine was a PI swapped '96 4.6L SOHC and at about 9.5psi it put down 343rwph/389rwtq through a 4R70W and an independant rear suspension. The numbers weren't really high, but it had a big fat torque curve. It propelled my near 4,200lb (with driver) Mercury Cougar into mid/high-12's in the 110mph range on a regular basis.
Not mine, but this is someone's version of what an S-ported M90 looks like. Subtle changes, make a big difference in efficiency.
If you really wanted to step things up and start spinning one of these things, you could look into an MPx blower case. Those MPx blowers will spin to the moon....but then you've have moved out of the "free" zone.
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the inlet is getting very thin near the back wall so I stopped as the sand paper rolls were taking out more material than expected during smoothing. The mouth is much larger now on the inside and there are no more sharp edges.
With better/longer burrs and better equipment I'm sure I could take the inlet farther... as it stands it should allow much better flow, I'm not too worried as this unit was very cheap.
Well I had an aww dammit moment today. While trying to install the new bearings I deformed one of them, my makeshift press didn't work as well as it has in the past. The bearings take forever to ship, there is a bearing shop local to me I am going to see if they have them and if they will install as well.
The rotor pack has some slight movement in the bearings, and very light markings on the face where the rotors sit. Is this a concern? Can this be rebuilt? Trying to stick to the budget (past that point already though). I need a cheap option a "new" rotor pack is 450$ that's out of the question. Wedding in October = no go fast parts
The rotor pack has some slight movement in the bearings, and very light markings on the face where the rotors sit. Is this a concern? Can this be rebuilt? Trying to stick to the budget (past that point already though). I need a cheap option a "new" rotor pack is 450$ that's out of the question. Wedding in October = no go fast parts
OK finally got the charger back together. The rebuilding process was mundane so no pics of that.
My heads still haven't come in..... might have to go strong arm for my payment......
My heads still haven't come in..... might have to go strong arm for my payment......
This is why I need expert advice. look closely at the #5 intake valve the retainer has walked up the valve. #2 and 5 are the worst these are going to the machine shop to be fixed. After doing some research I just don't get the warm and fuzzy about the procomps he is giving me. We have used some on my father's race car with good results but they are reworked castings with new goodies.
Soooo off to Thompsons they go. Hopefully it's something silly like wrong retainers.
Soooo off to Thompsons they go. Hopefully it's something silly like wrong retainers.
Good luck, I feel your pain. Don't forget a machine shop loves it when you bring them donuts. Your heads may receive a little extra attention with a kind gesture as well
Hmm got a call today from Thompsons. "Well you have quite a mess here"
I never noticed but the 1.6 exhaust valves I paid for aren't in the heads....
They used Chevy 2.02 valves for the intake side and the stock one on the exhaust...
And they installed the wrong springs, too much pressure. spec for flat tappet not hyd roller.
Man I can't catch a break.
I never noticed but the 1.6 exhaust valves I paid for aren't in the heads....
They used Chevy 2.02 valves for the intake side and the stock one on the exhaust...
And they installed the wrong springs, too much pressure. spec for flat tappet not hyd roller.
Man I can't catch a break.
Wish I could get my money back. 1yr warranty. I only drove the car 500 miles....
And no they are a full service shop, the body shop is good..... that's about it
And no they are a full service shop, the body shop is good..... that's about it
Wish I could get my money back. 1yr warranty. I only drove the car 500 miles....
And no they are a full service shop, the body shop is good..... that's about it
Damn the warranty....you paid for parts you didn't get. That's fraud in anybodies book. It only costs you $50 to file a lawsuit in small claims court.
Ok. All negativity out the window.
I finally met Bill Thompson of TRE (Thompson racing engines). I was impressed by his shop and talking with his techs I feel very confident.
We are going to 1.6 exhaust valves, so they match the intakes .1 long. New springs and retainers, and I'm having them drilled for studs.
I am tired of doing things twice so this time we do it right. I should have them by monday.
I finally met Bill Thompson of TRE (Thompson racing engines). I was impressed by his shop and talking with his techs I feel very confident.
We are going to 1.6 exhaust valves, so they match the intakes .1 long. New springs and retainers, and I'm having them drilled for studs.
I am tired of doing things twice so this time we do it right. I should have them by monday.
Yup. Already ordered them (got the go ahead from the better half to pull the trigger and fix it right). Studs guide plates and roller rocker all made in the USA.Sounds like your on the hunt for new stud mount rockers now too eh?
One question will I be able to reuse the stock pushrods or will I need cromoly ones? I know I need to check for proper length I have help coming over for that it amazing what you can talk someone into for a 12pack