Story of my life.So you have small hardware? That's a shame.
That’s terrible man-on the plus side,even though they are pricey brand new wires-you found your issue.. can you take thee boots off the new wires and put them on your old set?Steve's confession hour.
I am annoyed I tried everything even installed a new vr sensor, tapped knocked touched everything trying to make the car act up... nothing shifted some stuff around then went inside..
Now it's dark, i start the car runs like it's missing multiple cylinders... guess what....
IT'S LIKE A FREAKING CHRISTMAS LIGHT SHOW UNDER THE HOOD
Damn expensive weaponX plug wires are arcing all over the place, now I built these things so you would expect them to leak at the plug boots... nope randomly along the length of the wire.
never again.
Never again will I do this I am going to buy regular old plug wires for an edis equipped explorer and run those bidches.
Damn near defeated by friggin plug wires...
No, i sold them off already.... I'm just going with what has a warranty at this point.That’s terrible man-on the plus side,even though they are pricey brand new wires-you found your issue.. can you take thee boots off the new wires and put them on your old set?
Batch fire, i don't think that is my issue it's most defiantly spark related.Do you think it could be a fuel puddling issue ?
The salt in pepper shakers were driving me nuts.
I dug through your thread and it doesn't seem like you'd have a fueling issue because of injector location. Are you running sequential or batch fire ? ( I forgot ).
I'll try to answer all the questions Mike.How are the plug wires contributing to the lack of proper timing advance? If you are only at 10 degrees total still the car will run like crap regardless. ( although arching plug wires will surely amplify the issue)
It doesn't make any sense the you are having that kind of fire storm from a new set of wires..especially if they are aftermarket. The only things that I can contribute are based on what I know about my situation personally, so I'll reiterate..
It's been too long for me to remember...but it's either this schematic, or another out there that is listing the coil towers in the wrong order ( again,..it's not "A,B,C", it was different.) I found out that the pin out to the connector had the towers in the wrong order, and hence the firing order was also wrong..
Maybe you have a similar issue?
What are you doing for a trigger wire coming off if your VR sensor? Is it properly shielded? I'm using a shielded two conductor on mine..
There's a section in the Mega manual where you are supposed to watch your TP sensor gauge ( and others,I can't remember) with Koeo to see how much noise you are getting from electrical interference...maybe you are getting a bunch of cross talk.
Have you looked at my tune to compare my settings with yours? There is something about not setting the ign to a toothed wheel config..( Remember way back in the day,...when we first talked via team viewer and changed my firmware...the car went from a running state, to a non running state after that, and we could not get a restart. I found some setting that hadn't been configured that the FW update defaulted to off )
I'd check my EDIS build settings in your ecu as well..there are circuits that needed to be config' d for a Hall effect sensor, and other things that were specific to EDIS.
I'll try to answer all the questions Mike.
The timing advance issue was caused by a leaking voltage from the old TFI circuit I had built on the board, it took the 5v logic output and stepped it up to 12v to fire the tfi... basically once I removed the 12v pull up resistor the timing went back to normal and I had advance again. So that one was solved.
The firing order I know is correct I tested the outputs from the edis to the coils, then as the car ran I put a timing light on each coil in order "ABCD" and saw the balancer mark show 0-270-180-90 so that is working correctly....
I took an ignition log and I have good signal from the edis8 module to the ecu no noise on the line at all all sensors are good to go as well.
The vr sensor was showing good signal and strong voltage (probe the + and - on the sensor line at the module you should show good voltage above 2.2v ) I replaced it anyway.
I have been talking with Matt Cramer via email, i have figured my issues out based off of small questions he asks.. So I now understand the ign output wiring and logic on these things even better now. We both agreed my settings are good, i also compared them to yours since I know we just went thru this recently...
So my issue is now down to the arcing wires when it runs right it's AMAZING how much better and smoother the idle is over the distributor.
That’s it exactly Steve.... a lot of the time I just take an idea and run with it, sometimes it works out and sometimes it does not.. lol
The pull up resistor was a poor choice. An op amp with a 3:1 or 2:1 gain would have been the right way to do it. Use a 10KΩ resistor on the input leg of the op amp and a 30KΩ for the feedback resistor for 3:1 and Use a 15 KΩ resistor on the input leg of the op amp and a 30KΩ for the feedback resistor for 2:1 gain. The TFI or equal circuit only needs about 8-12 volts for proper operation.I'll try to answer all the questions Mike.
The timing advance issue was caused by a leaking voltage from the old TFI circuit I had built on the board, it took the 5v logic output and stepped it up to 12v to fire the tfi... basically once I removed the 12v pull up resistor the timing went back to normal and I had advance again. So that one was solved.
The firing order I know is correct I tested the outputs from the edis to the coils, then as the car ran I put a timing light on each coil in order "ABCD" and saw the balancer mark show 0-270-180-90 so that is working correctly....
I took an ignition log and I have good signal from the edis8 module to the ecu no noise on the line at all all sensors are good to go as well.
The vr sensor was showing good signal and strong voltage (probe the + and - on the sensor line at the module you should show good voltage above 2.2v ) I replaced it anyway.
I have been talking with Matt Cramer via email, i have figured my issues out based off of small questions he asks.. So I now understand the ign output wiring and logic on these things even better now. We both agreed my settings are good, i also compared them to yours since I know we just went thru this recently...
So my issue is now down to the arcing wires when it runs right it's AMAZING how much better and smoother the idle is over the distributor.
The pull up was for the old tfi circuit which worked flawlessly.The pull up resistor was a poor choice. An op amp with a 3:1 or 2:1 gain would have been the right way to do it. Use a 10KΩ resistor on the input leg of the op amp and a 30KΩ for the feedback resistor for 3:1 and Use a 15 KΩ resistor on the input leg of the op amp and a 30KΩ for the feedback resistor for 2:1 gain. The TFI or equal circuit only needs about 8-12 volts for proper operation.
If you are going to work with electronics, buy an oscilloscope or graphing multimeter. Used, working O'scopes with 1MHZ or greater bandwidth are available for less than $100 on ebay.
See https://www.google.com/search?sourc...j0i131i20i264k1j0i10k1j33i160k1.0.indlrH3_Hcw
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