Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
- Thread starter a91what
- Start date
Ebay. The good ones are about 14$ each. I only use USA sellers, it's hard to find these made in USA without cutting off your arm as payment.
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
I've been hard pressed to find a 4" 180 degree coupling to replace my vortech supplied accordion style inlet tube from filter to blower... One thats not $100 anyways. I will keep looking.
Auto Silicone Hoses - Silicone Polyester Reinforced Hose - 102mm - 180 Degree Elbows - 3 Colours
I found options on ebay for 50$ but they are from china.
I found options on ebay for 50$ but they are from china.
Taking the car out to cash days tomorrow night at Lakeland dragstrip. Last time they saw it I was running 8.9 all motor, on street tires with stock heads. Hopefully they will just assume I have a pos with a bad ps pump... I can't wait to see what full boost is like, going out way early to do some tuning.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I had nothing for those boys. ****s trailering cars in, my tune needs tweeting and more timing..... I think I am being too conservative 20* at 6#...... what do you guys think?
Btw, the most boost I saw was 7.5# on the interstate in 5th gear... not too happy with that.
need bigger blower.
Btw, the most boost I saw was 7.5# on the interstate in 5th gear... not too happy with that.
need bigger blower.
Yes 3. First pass car died on the launch. I was trying the launch control function, needless to say I turned it off.
Second pass, the car obliterated the tires 1st and 2nd gear. The car before me left water on the track (azz hat). Ran a 9.7et at 89mph. Sad
Third pass, it was late 1030pm 45* air track was cold. Second gear launch 2.12 60ft 8.8et at 90mph.... again sad. Car wants more timing I think, and I need a lot more seat time.
All passes were full weight, 120lb of batteries in the trunk, full tank of gas. And a terrible driver granny shifting.
Second pass, the car obliterated the tires 1st and 2nd gear. The car before me left water on the track (azz hat). Ran a 9.7et at 89mph. Sad
Third pass, it was late 1030pm 45* air track was cold. Second gear launch 2.12 60ft 8.8et at 90mph.... again sad. Car wants more timing I think, and I need a lot more seat time.
All passes were full weight, 120lb of batteries in the trunk, full tank of gas. And a terrible driver granny shifting.
Sounds like it's time for an automatic then,....Granny.
Let's use some applied science here shall we:
Subject: J.R.
Subject Vehicle: J.R.'s supercharged car.
Hypothetical question: How much faster would JR go in JR's car if he didn't have to worry about shredding a T5, missing any gear, or blazing the tires as a result of a 3000rpm side step at the line?
Solution: 4R 70w. Then you can get a pretentious wool hat with a moderate sized brim, oozing with status, and cruise in overdriven comfort on your way to the digs. Once there, drop the top and show off the fact that street driven race car drivers do not need the distraction of wearing that unsightly plastic ball on their heads, while putting the power to the ground in one seamless, effortless pass.
It will at the very least, give the bums, rednecks, redneckletts, and other unworthy classes of spectators in the stands something to be insanely jealous of.
Or you can get a C4 if you're a glutton for punishing yourself on the drive getting there.
Either way, the results will be significantly faster than the lift and push, lift and pull technique you are using now.
Let's use some applied science here shall we:
Subject: J.R.
Subject Vehicle: J.R.'s supercharged car.
Hypothetical question: How much faster would JR go in JR's car if he didn't have to worry about shredding a T5, missing any gear, or blazing the tires as a result of a 3000rpm side step at the line?
Solution: 4R 70w. Then you can get a pretentious wool hat with a moderate sized brim, oozing with status, and cruise in overdriven comfort on your way to the digs. Once there, drop the top and show off the fact that street driven race car drivers do not need the distraction of wearing that unsightly plastic ball on their heads, while putting the power to the ground in one seamless, effortless pass.
It will at the very least, give the bums, rednecks, redneckletts, and other unworthy classes of spectators in the stands something to be insanely jealous of.
Or you can get a C4 if you're a glutton for punishing yourself on the drive getting there.
Either way, the results will be significantly faster than the lift and push, lift and pull technique you are using now.
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Bleh...no fun
If a track car and worried about consistency then heck yeah. But if just a few passes a year and having fun(until it breaks lol
)...run the T5. Just learn to drive at the track. But I do agree with the logic of an auto swap. I almost did this myself but I'm a glutton for punishment and will break my t5 (again) before such a drastic switch.
Sounds like you just need to fine tune the car and your driving. You should never try launching in 2nd btw. With a cold AND wet track...you're going to spin no matter what. The track officials should have cleaned that up. That's a dangerous condition for everyone. Grab some sticky soft compound tires before going back. I prefer a bias ply (I really liked the M&H dot tires) for a stick car. Radials just don't work well with a 5speed unless you have some descent tire and now how to launch them. I can say Nitto's suck from experience and are inconsistent. Such a fine line of acceptability or complete slippage.Yes 3. First pass car died on the launch. I was trying the launch control function, needless to say I turned it off.
Second pass, the car obliterated the tires 1st and 2nd gear. The car before me left water on the track (azz hat). Ran a 9.7et at 89mph. Sad
Third pass, it was late 1030pm 45* air track was cold. Second gear launch 2.12 60ft 8.8et at 90mph.... again sad. Car wants more timing I think, and I need a lot more seat time.
All passes were full weight, 120lb of batteries in the trunk, full tank of gas. And a terrible driver granny shifting.
Bleh...no fun
If a track car and worried about consistency then heck yeah. But if just a few passes a year and having fun(until it breaks lol
You obviously do not have the convertible version of the car in question my good sir. If you did, then you would realize that the fun doesn't start until after the top comes down,...regardless of what transmission happens to be handling the routine duties of changing gears.
I was just stating the obvious. Convertible owners are all about being seen. Why not be able to just sit back in the seat at a perceivably relaxed position while maintaining your decorum, as opposed to being hunched over an obnoxious chrome plated stick yanking and punching the thing like a mad man while traveling the 1320?
Lol...because it's fun??
I'm just a "manual" guy. I do understand what you're saying and agree with the logical approach you are applying. I just don't like automatics in my "fun" cars. If it is just a cruiser and/or bracket car, then an automatic is the way to go. For me...just not fun. And I've driven some fast automatic cars(9sec-140+mph 1/4). At that level an automatic is a necessity but with a typical 12sec or slower car(most cars IMO),that is just a weekend warrior, I'd prefer a manual. Even if it is a convertible "look at me" car. It's just a preferential thing I suppose.
I'm just a "manual" guy. I do understand what you're saying and agree with the logical approach you are applying. I just don't like automatics in my "fun" cars. If it is just a cruiser and/or bracket car, then an automatic is the way to go. For me...just not fun. And I've driven some fast automatic cars(9sec-140+mph 1/4). At that level an automatic is a necessity but with a typical 12sec or slower car(most cars IMO),that is just a weekend warrior, I'd prefer a manual. Even if it is a convertible "look at me" car. It's just a preferential thing I suppose.
I like the manual gear box, just need practice. I do not wear a pretentious hat wilst in my cabriolet Mike but loved the thread. Lol.
This car is just about having fun and learning how to fab my own stuff. If I wanted a race car I would get one.
Why no 2nd gear luanch?
This car is just about having fun and learning how to fab my own stuff. If I wanted a race car I would get one.
Why no 2nd gear luanch?
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Why no 2nd gear launch? Well the gear ratio is to high. It's hard on the clutch(creates more heat). So between the two you'll never run the quickest time and is hard on the driveline. You need the torque multiplication of first gear. If it's blowing the tire off, you need a better tire/suspension/driving style. With a stock tire it doesn't really matter. You're going to have traction problems(only worse with more and more power). A drag radial would help. Again it's hard to get those to work with a manual(especially with a positive displacement blower-i.e. Instant torque). A bias ply soft compound tire(either a dot type or slick) is the best option. I have heard good things about the Mickey Thompson pro version drag radial.
Does your MS system have a datalog feature? What's your rear suspension consist of? Do you plan on spending considerable time at the track? Or is it mostly going to be a street car and occasionally see a track day? How important to you is the straight line performance? If you just want to see how changes you make(tune,suspension,etc) affect performance,but not really concerened with a specific ET, you should launch/drive the car the same way every pass. Then just pay attention to 1/4 mile speed. Your 60times may stink,etc but you will be able to see how many mph you gain. This will indicate how much horsepower you are increasing or decreasing. So the timeslip can be used for a diagnostic tool if I explained that well enough. Lol
Yes it data logs very well. Rear suspension is stock, going to cut the springs after a fender roll. It's a street car, I just like to go make a few hits now and then. As far as performance goes it's a vert so I get what I can out of it. I plan on building something else later on, but to take out for a cruise this thing is great.
After talking with the guys over at tccoa I have decided to pull the m90 back off the car. I need to do a lot more work on the inlet side of the blower, like paper thin port work. Maybe even weld or epoxy the back of the case to get the inlet opened up enough.
On the bright side they said my inlet Temps were better than expected. So my work on the outlet was good.
I need better burrs for the aluminum port work, I wonder if I can source them locally...
On the bright side they said my inlet Temps were better than expected. So my work on the outlet was good.
I need better burrs for the aluminum port work, I wonder if I can source them locally...
Found a cool pressure loss calculator on the interwebz, with 7 90* bends and that ginormous ebay fmic I have it equates to about a 4 psi loss... for giggles I'm going to route the piping directly and bypass the fmic and see what the psi and mat Temps look like... even if I only get 2psi jump as long as mat Temps stay below 220* I will get a 10% increase in power.
Right now I see a 50* drop in temp as I make pulls. Average mat is 135* during wot. We shall see.
Right now I see a 50* drop in temp as I make pulls. Average mat is 135* during wot. We shall see.
To answer your question about the aluminum burr,.....yes you can. Any welding supply store typically has them in a display case. It'll be a fluted burr and will cut great hunks out of the aluminum w/very little effort, so my advice is to be very careful when you apply that Tasmanian devil to the blower case.