It may not be as much work as you think. First off, I would get rid of that stock style belt tensioner you have next to the blower pulley. That is most certainly part of your issue.I would be forced to remake every bracket on the setup to do that, including a different radiator/fan setup... here is a pic of the front dress.there is plenty of wrap/tension on the belt for sure. And I'm running a larger crank pulley from a bronco, I believe it's just shy of 7"
I do get quite a bit of belt burn showing up under the hood. (Slippage would explain the weirdness on the data log)
I don't disagree with anything that you're saying but I will explain how the setup works there are three tensioners on the car the first two on the left take up the tension of the belt so I don't get any belt slap. I've tested this letting the car bounce up on the two step. Third tensioner on the right closest to the supercharger is actually locked in place it does not move at all. On the back side of the bracket there's a half inch plate of aluminum to strengthen it. That attaches to the bracket that the supercharger is mounted to. This mounting system has gone through many iterations as I put it together I was able to watch the engine dress on the dyno on the second pull granted there was some Flex but it wasn't where you think it would be the flex actually occurred on the center tensioner. FWIW I do plan on taking the plate down at some point and having it laser cut out of steel, but for now my hodgepodge will have to do....It may not be as much work as you think. First off, I would get rid of that stock style belt tensioner you have next to the blower pulley. That is most certainly part of your issue.
If you ever get the chance to watch it on the dyno, watch what happens with one of those tensioners every time it quickly come on and off power.....they ratchet back and forth momentarily reducing the amount of tension on the accessory pullys, causing them to skip. That alone could explain some of the dust. I also see that your makeshift apparatus to hold the tensioner in place looks like little more than some long bolts, sleeved inside of some hollow stock cut to the appropriate length. That's going to flex like crazy under load. Comparatively, the Vortech brackets are made from a single, solid thick piece of steel, much stronger than your set up and they flex like crazy with very little tension.
Improving your situation is certainly doable, without having to completely redesign your accessory system. First off, your blower should run independant of the rest of the accessories. Nothing more than a crank pulley a tensioner and the blower pulley. This will then allow you to look into an 8 or even 10-rib set up. You may even get away with a stock size blower pulley and that itty bitty thing you run then. Keeps it simple and more importantly if you ever throw a belt, you won't end up stranded on the side of the road because your water pump has stopped turning along with your blower.
Second, Eaton sells half a dozen different length nose drives for their blowers. You could easily bring the snout length forward, without having to disturb the rest of the system at all. This will then allow you to run a 2-pully crank set up....and more importantly a larger diameter outer pulley to spin the blower.
The tensioner should be redesigned anyway, so this would be your opportunity to move it outward and replace it with something solid like those sold through Vortech.
If that sounds like too much work, or money I would at the very least redesign the tensioner set up with something more sturdy and exchange the spring tensioner for a sold one. Then I would bump that pulley up to at least 2.5" (perhaps something of the anti slip variety as well) to get more consistent traction on it.
The torque comes on and peaks a lot earlier in the power band than the horsepower, greatly reducing the amount of slippage you're seeing in that area. The horsepower on the other hand peeks much higher in both engine and accessory RPM, which is where the most slippage occurs. Get that under control and I bet not only your power curve will be more uniform, but so will your fuel delivery.
Yes I think I can make that happen it will take some fab work [reworking the current bracket] but I will need to find a vortech crank pulley on the super cheap... Anything can be done, I mean I've gotten this far with a bunch of jy chit and only a 2k budget. most of which was eaten up on the MS ecu, Injectors ect.
With my 3.42 drive ratio at 5k I'm already at that wall. Which not surprisingly by the information that you've given is exactly where my graph falls off dramatically. If I were to install the 2.2 inch pulley the effective wall would not occur until almost 6,000 RPM. So I think I'm going to try this I'm going to take the 2.2 inch pulley and sand blast it with some coarse medium that I have that should give it a real good bite and install a brand new belt after scrubbing all the pulley down. I think all of that plus some belt dressing May eliminate a lot of the belt slip. Then I should be able to use the ve table numbers to tell whether or not I made more power. Now I don't really have an issue with the intake air temperature at the moment even spinning the thing past 20000 RPM but I do believe that the parasitic losses are going through the roof. That alone would explain the large duty cycle on the injectors vs the rear wheel horsepower number
Not really looking at the moment just trying to keep my options open I think I've maxed out the blower. It's an old inefficient model and I'm already spending it past its map
