Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#2,381
@a91what

The clearance problem for the bolt heads is to use some Cad Plated MS24694-S178 -516R46 flat head structural screws 2-29/32" long 5/16-24 thread cost is $0.93 each These use a 100 ° countersink. You can cut these long screws to whatever length you want.
See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms24694.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ 1-877-477-7823

See https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks...h=n:256259011,p_cutting_angle-bin:100 Degrees for the 5/8" diameter countersink cutter bit you will need to finish the job.
 
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#2,382
jrichker said:
@a91what

The clearance problem for the bolt heads is to use some Cad Plated MS24694-S178 -516R46 flat head structural screws 2-29/32" long 5/16-24 thread cost is $0.93 each These use a 100 ° countersink. You can cut these long screws to whatever length you want.
See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms24694.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/ 1-877-477-7823

See https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks-100-Degrees-Cutting-Tools/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n:256259011,p_cutting_angle-bin:100 Degrees for the 5/8" diameter countersink cutter bit you will need to finish the job.
Click to expand...

This is what I was thinking as well, except I would consider something with a hex or torx drive. McMaster Carr it up.

The down side to this approach is it requires more precision in the location of the holes and counter sinks than a standard through-hole because the flat head fastener cannot "float" around in the clearance hole to align with the threaded hole.
 
#2,383
Went down to my local hardware store they always have the hard to find stuff that the big box stores don't carry especially if it is anything bolt related. I found some 1/4-20 alan head bolts with the 100* taper, I had to use some ingenuity when drilling for them as I could not find the correct bit. So using multiple bits i managed to get the taper very close to what was needed, then ran them in tight with my small impact and some red locktight.
Checked against them explorer balancer I have the same distance from the end of the balancer (snout? Hub?) To the tone ring surface. :spot:
20180410_084215.webp
 
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#2,384
Now all I need to do is take this junk down to the machine shop. Explain everything i need done and hope it goes well... lol

Then remove the engine that's in the car now and see what is really damaged. Is there a way to pull the engine without removing the trans? I suppose pulling the trans is no big deal really I just hate fighting with the driveshaft out in the yard... I really hate it.
 
#2,386
a91what said:
Now all I need to do is take this junk down to the machine shop. Explain everything i need done and hope it goes well... lol

Then remove the engine that's in the car now and see what is really damaged. Is there a way to pull the engine without removing the trans? I suppose pulling the trans is no big deal really I just hate fighting with the driveshaft out in the yard... I really hate it.
Click to expand...
I’ve pulled several engines apart from the trans, and left the transmission where it belongs, and pulled just the engine. . To include my current situation.
 
#2,388
Remember me telling you about pulling my engine and trans together?
this requires getting the front up high enough to not smash the lower part of the front bumper cover, about 4" if I remember, and being able to lift the back up to a point the engine and trans comes out straight and flat, I don't recommend doing this in the grass because the hoist will not roll and the car will not roll that high up in back, I did this by myself but it was in my shop on concrete. Take the trans out and call when your ready to put it back together and I'll help you slide it back in, hell, call me and I will help you yank it out, the dump truck is pretty handy for lifting and moving stuff. :jester:
 
#2,390
Before i 100% commit to this version of the build does anyone see an issue with a 10:1 comp iron headed engine fitted with a PD blower and possibly 10psi?
I think i may use a smaller crank pulley bronco 6-5/8" currently used the mustang crank pulley is only 6" using my boost calculator I should only see 6-8psi vs the 10-11 i have now.
 
#2,391
Is more always better?
you bet it is!
how much different will it be in terms of reliability and longevity?
how many more tires can you waste by adding 2 psi more?
i always read about coyote and LS cars making 1000hp but most times they turn it down to 700/800 hp so it will live on the street.
just because you can does not mean you should.
remember you still have to rebuild that hippy van.
 
#2,393
karthief said:
Is more always better?
you bet it is!
how much different will it be in terms of reliability and longevity?
how many more tires can you waste by adding 2 psi more?
i always read about coyote and LS cars making 1000hp but most times they turn it down to 700/800 hp so it will live on the street.
just because you can does not mean you should.
remember you still have to rebuild that hippy van.
Click to expand...

How do you spell w a t e r / m e t h a n o l i n j e c t i o n ? Maybe Mike has some leftover Gila slobber parts that he will sell you...
 
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#2,397
Blower is off the car, it has been pulled apart, it is salvageable. No real damage to the rotors or the case, in fact the m90 looked much worse before it got rebuilt.
Basically the case bearings that hold the blower rotors stable in the back of the case during operation are dry.... no bueno. The needle bearings used in this blower are not fully sealed, I did not notice this, the original gasket and flange sealed the bearing.. why they did it this way is baffling.. guess what I did not use? That's right I didn't use any of that junk, the grease probably disappeared in the first few miles I drove... then the bearings probably gave up. Needless to say i am buying sealed bearings this time.

I will have to use some Emery cloth and smooth the places there was contact, no biggy I will have this all cleaned up and ready to go in an hour once the parts come in. I am not going to rebuild the snout, I see no reason to, it feels tighter than the one I rebuilt.
 
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#2,399
Ok so i have ordered all the required mod kit parts to get rid of the EDIS8 system on my car. I am only doing this so i can run semisequential injection. Basically the ECU will now fire the coil packs in pairs along with the injectors, this will improve idle significantly. I will document the details as i go, i am also adding a JBPERF tinyxio this talks to the MS over canbus and will control all of my relay circuits.
 
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#2,400
a91what said:
Ok so i have ordered all the required mod kit parts to get rid of the EDIS8 system on my car. I am only doing this so i can run semisequential injection. Basically the ECU will now fire the coil packs in pairs along with the injectors, this will improve idle significantly. I will document the details as i go, i am also adding a JBPERF tinyxio this talks to the MS over canbus and will control all of my relay circuits.
Click to expand...
I've never heard of this board. Are you using it because you're losing outputs due to the semi sequential module?
 
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