Error Code Help

[94fiveptslow]

Pulled some codes from the ole car using the paper clip and jumper wire...heres what i got: some are repetitive for some reason???

This was after i cleared the codes and drove it about 30 miles.
111 Pass
111 Pass
172 lean left side
173 rich right side
176 lean left side
172 lean right side
173 rich right side
176 lean left side
WHAT COULD MY PROBLEM BE...my o2's??

My first time to read the codes i got these...dont know if these are REALLY old or what but here they are: some i cant even find which are marked unknown.

111 Pass
111 Pass
117 Collant Temp circuit below min. voltage. indicated above 245*F
217 PCM detected coil 3 primary circuit failure
317 UNKNOWN
617 1-2 Shift error
217 PCM detected coil 3 primary circuit failure
317 UNKNOWN
What is my Coil three and how can i check/replace it?? Same with 117 how can i check/replace it??
Threw a 311 once but then ran it again and it didnt the do it anymore??
and then just a 6 for some reason..i know i was doing it right because the digits were seperated by 2 seconds and then the codes were seperated by 4 seconds.

Then my car wont show any codes during the ER test...CEL blinks 4 times for 8 cyl and then nothing...even if the car is idling like crap...???

KNOW THIS IS A LOT BUT HOPEFULLY SOMEONE CAN HELP
Thanks,
Mark

 

[94fiveptslow]

Anybody??

 

[94fiveptslow]

bump!!

 

[94fiveptslow]

Does anyone know what could be causing any of these codes or problems??? I think my car runs rich at idle and lean while driving.

 

[chrismillion]

i hope this will help any. the R in the testing condition stands for Engine Running. the C stands for Continuous Memory. you might want to check your voltage to your O2's.

 

[chrismillion]

i have to do it again

 

[94fiveptslow]

what should the voltage to my o2's be...so i just diconnect them...start the car and probe the connectors for correct voltage??

 

[chrismillion]

using pins or paperclips, backprobe SIG(+) and GND(-) and check for a varying millivolt signal as the system adjusts the air/fuel ratio. Voltage should remain steady as the engine warms-up(open loop) and then vary from 0.1 volts (100 millivolts) to 0.9 volts(900 millivolts) if the system is operating properly(closed loop)

 

[94fiveptslow]

Just a thought...but i thought i would ask anyways...if your o2's are sending a signal to the computer that your running lean/rich doesnt that mean that there working to even give a reading??? Because correct me if im wrong..the o2's cant directly cut/add fuel..they tell the computer to do it, so..if there working enough for codes then there WORKING...right or wrong???...just curious....THANKS

 

[mo_dingo]

Just a thought...but i thought i would ask anyways...if your o2's are sending a signal to the computer that your running lean/rich doesnt that mean that there working to even give a reading??? Because correct me if im wrong..the o2's cant directly cut/add fuel..they tell the computer to do it, so..if there working enough for codes then there WORKING...right or wrong???...just curious....THANKS

The thing about any sensor is they degrade over time. Just because a sensor is "working at all" doesn't mean it's working correctly. Here is an example.

If the wires on the MAF sensor get dirty, they will still provide a certain resistance per amount of air coming in, but the resistance will be wrong, so the computer will add/remove the wrong amount of fuel.

Now, onto your car. Once the car warms up, the computer begins to add/trim fuel based on the o2 sensors readings. Basically, the computer forces an oscillating rich/lean condition. Once the O2 reads a lean condition, the computer adds fuel until the O2 reads rich, then the computer removes fuel, until the computer reads lean again. This cycle repeats, and this maintains a a/f ratio around 14.7:1.

There is a specific O2 sensor resistance value that equates to this 14.7:1 ratio. So if the O2 sensors are somewhat degraded, the computer will be oscillating around an incorrect a/f ratio.

Once the car is warm, the computer assumes the O2 sensors are working properly, and only uses them to meter air. However, if the other sensors are reading way too high/low of air, compared to what the O2 sensors tell the computer, then the computer spits out codes.

You read the codes wrong in your first post.

172/173 means the passenger side O2 is reading both a lean and rich condition. 176 means the drivers side O2 indicates lean.

My guess is another sensor is bad, and the O2 sensors are telling you this.

Do a search on here for how to clean your MAF/IAT sensors & check your fuel pressure. You also may want to check/replace your spark plugs/cap/rotor (although probably not the problem).
Scott

 

[94fiveptslow]

Thanks mo dingo, ill check everything out and see what happens.