Ever had this cooling issue?

[Noobz347]

So there I was....

I put a monster 2 row aluminum radiator in the car a year ago or so. I'm using a 180* t-stat. It's one that has the small hole in it that allows pressure equalization between the engine and the cooling system so that the t-stat is never held in in either the open or closed position due to pressure from either engine RPM or exapansion or whatever.

Here's the problem though... It's winter time and I often don't see operating temps indicated on the temp gauge unless I'm sitting at idle. Just as soon as I get moving again, I can watch the temp gauge fall.

So my question... How much water/coolant is actually allowed from the engine to the radiator via the coolant by-pass hose? Has anyone ever restricted flow through this hose? Is it effective or worth doing?

What are some other potential solutions aside from blocking off the radiator? (i've tried this, it's inneffective at best). I guess I'm looking for more of a permanent solution or maybe there's something I should have done when installing this larger radiator that I didn't do.

The radiator is definitely overkill for this time of season but not for when it's warmer (well maybe a little but no drastically). I'd prefer to have a little more cooling capacity than needed vs. not enough.

Suggestions?

 

[mwood]

You ever see trucks running around with cardboard ziptied to their radiator in the winter?

 

[Noobz347]

You ever see trucks running around with cardboard ziptied to their radiator in the winter?

Yep... and I've done this as well. I've even gone as far as making up a piece of aluminum with slots cut in it with attaching hardware.

It seems to me though, that if coolant flow is application matched, that this kind of thing might be unnessesary?

 

[mwood]

The coolant flow design of the 5.0 motor was based on the stock radiator. Two outputs from the waterpump. One bypasses the thermostat to give you heat. You upgraded the radiator. So it is no longer matched.

 

[Noobz347]

It wasn't matched before either. It was inadequate when the motor was supercharged, bored, and stroked.

That's kinda the point of the discussion. I want to try and bring it back into balance without resorting to band-aids.

 

[mwood]

One question. What fan do you have? Electric or OEM? An electric fan is also therostat controled. Will not run when too cold. Might help.

 

[Noobz347]

I have the OEM style clutch fan (also thermostatically controlled).

I've definitely considered an electric fan but I'm not so sure that, that would cure my current problem. When I'm moving, I loose a lot of heat in the coolant.

What's your thought process on the fan?

 

[mwood]

I have the OEM style clutch fan (also thermostatically controlled).

I've definitely considered an electric fan but I'm not so sure that, that would cure my current problem. When I'm moving, I loose a lot of heat in the coolant.

What's your thought process on the fan?

Your problem is the radiator plus current coolant flow design. Coolant keeps flowing around the themostat via the heater hose to the firewall. The electric fan places a thermostat in the radiator fins. My electric fan doesn't even run most of the time in the summer. Shouldn't run at all in the winter. Not sure if the OEM fan is running or not. Either way the electric fan might not help. Easiest solution is covering up the radiator in the winter.

 

[mwood]

Really dumb question. What temp is it running at what temp outside? It was 10 below here this morning. If it takes that to pull the temp down on your stang and is still running 140, why loose sleep?

 

[Noobz347]

The OEM fan DOES move when the engine runs, true. When it gets hot the clutch holds it tight and it turns at engine speed.

I have the restrictor in-line with heater core. I was considering running an additional restrictor in the coolant by-pass line as well. Coolant would still flow but not as fast. I wonder though, if restricting flow in that by-pass line might cause excess pressure though. I mean... that's what the by-pass line is for, isn't it?

I see your point about the electric fans though. Yes... the OEM fan does rotate whether the clutch is engaged or not. The negative pressure behind the radiator might be reduced a little by using an electric fan that doesn't rotate at all (with exception of being pushed by air). Might be worth just pulling the fan off for a day and see how much of a difference it makes in cooling while moving. My suspicion though, is that it's probably not much. Worth a shot and doesn't cost money to try though.

 

[Noobz347]

Ah... I might also that I'm running an inducted cowl. I'm sure that also helps to create negative pressure behind the radiator. Great when it's hot out... maybe not so great when it cold and cuasing even more flow through the radiator.

In the end you may be right. I may not be able to have it both ways.

 

[mwood]

One more thought for you. Not sure what waterpump you are running, but you might benefit from underdrive pullies. Or at least an underdrive for just the water pump. The issue is whatever you do to help the winter hurts you in the summer. That's why a radiator cover is easy. Can be removed in the summer.

 

[Noobz347]

That would be a quick fix.... Hmmmm.... might be worth a shot and if I get elevated temps during summer, I can swap it back.

I missed your Q above till just now. I don't know the specific temps that I'm running at. I use the stock temp gauge so my normal operating tempurature is, "O" and goes down to the, "C" when running in cool climates. lol Outside temp this morning was 28*. I get almost no temp indication other than heat coming from my vents, that I'm getting any heat soak at all.

The largest concern I suppose, is that even though I run synthetic oil, I want to ensure that it's getting that oil to operating temp to rid itself of the water that oil pulls from ambient air.

 

[5.0Droptop]

I fought this problem on my vert the whole time I owned it. Couldnt get heat in the winter and it ran low temps in winter. I had a 4 inch cowl hood with the vents opened on back of cowl....that may well have been hurting it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

The problem is you are using the stock temp gauge to judge. They are notoriously innaccurate. You really have no idea where the temp is siting. It could fall off the gaug but in reality be around 180 degree. You have no idea.

Secondly. 180 t stats aren't really ideal. The colder t stat trick is a holdover from the carved days. With efi, you really want to be a bit warmer...especially if your cooling system is as efficient as it seems.

But without a gOod gauge on it, we have no idea what kind of temP swings you are seeing.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Carbed...not carved.

Damn iPhone

 

[1991notchbackLX]

I agree with Mike, as usual. Combustion engines have what is known as an optimal running temperature for efficient operation. There's a reason Ford engineered a 195* thermostat into the 5.0L engine. Lubricating oil has different properties at different temperatures. Wear on lubricated parts within the engine can increase significantly when the temperature of the oil is decreased. Reinstall the stock 195* thermostat and call it done.