Everyone thats honed cylinders/spectated IN HERE NOW! PICS!

Hey so a few days ago my buddy and I honed my cylinders, or so we thought. Today we were gonna install my rotating assembly with one of my 4.6 freinds was like you need to hone those more. So he grabbed my drill, brakes part cleaner and WD-40 and honed away. Now my question is, WHAT THE HELL ARE WE DOING. Attached are a few pics of our job, and his. His looks clean and cool, ours looks kinda rough and not clean, but I didnt think it was supposed to look clean. What is the proper way to do this with out taking to much off? Heres pics,

His:
cyl_hone_001.jpg

cyl_hone_003.jpg


Ours:
cyl_hone_002.jpg

cyl_hone_004.jpg


And what the hell are those black spots? Looks like its from the oil ring thingy, you cant feel them.

cyl_hone_005.jpg
 
The cylinders after honing should be somewhat smooth, but have a little resistance. It shouldnt be smooth like glass, but it shouldnt feel like 80 grit sandpaper either. I would have to say it should feel like 2500 grit sandpaper, a little rough, but it doesnt take the skin off your fingers when you slide them over it. The cylinders look al little rough or gouged to me, but how does it feel? Are they honed evenly?
 
^ emery cloth comes in all different grits. :shrug:


But yeah, I usually see the cross-hatching effect on the pro's cylinder walls. I never really understood why. Does it make the rings seat better?
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
The cylinders after honing should be somewhat smooth, but have a little resistance. It shouldnt be smooth like glass, but it shouldnt feel like 80 grit sandpaper either. I would have to say it should feel like 2500 grit sandpaper, a little rough, but it doesnt take the skin off your fingers when you slide them over it. The cylinders look al little rough or gouged to me, but how does it feel? Are they honed evenly?
2500 grit? Isn't that velvet? :D

Keven, his walls look good. If you don't know why yours look so bad, ask your buddy his technique and try to figure out why. I can't think of a reason why yours would look different if the techniques are the same....

Joe
 
You might need a new hone. Is there lots of stone left on it? Honing stones will last practically forever though. Just keep constant speed on the drill, keep it as straight as you can and maintain constant in and out movement to make sure it's even. If your hone isn't working right, the hone blocks may not sit flat on the surface causing the corners to cut too much into the metal.

Pro blocks have that cross hatch look most likely becuase they hone with a machine.
 
Zero Signal said:
You might need a new hone. Is there lots of stone left on it? Honing stones will last practically forever though. Just keep constant speed on the drill, keep it as straight as you can and maintain constant in and out movement to make sure it's even. If your hone isn't working right, the hone blocks may not sit flat on the surface causing the corners to cut too much into the metal.

Pro blocks have that cross hatch look most likely becuase they hone with a machine.


Yup....The key is the slower speed and keeping the surface cool. Too much heat and you will damage the stone.
Scott