I put a breather on the passenger valve cover while still running the regular PCV in the back intake on my speed density car. However, the percentage is REAL low on those who think it's a "good" thing. But, the pressure is down and no whine. The car starts, idles but does blow "white' smoke for about 2 mkns until warmed up. I have NOT lost any rad fluid, no gas in the oil. I swapped the location of my O2 sensor with a new bung and now AFR reading is like 10.5 warming and 11.5-12 after warm. Once warm the car chugs a bit now. RPMs bounce from 800/850 to 925/975. Stage two trick flow cam on a 427 winsor. Never before has it bounced so much. I'll have to check the FPR and fuel preasure to see that. Also have to check comp and leak down. This could all be tune now but that is where I am.Another point you brought up is the crankcase breather........I NEVER leave my crankcase to vent out on its own and heres why......
Look at this picture below of my see thru breather tube that goes to my very tiny but very effective catch can that I modified with a draincock from a radiator and have to drain every 2-3 days plus the water is always clean and clear but smells like paint thinner...
Another thing to point out is Im running tall aluminum valvecovers and Im also running the internal baffle plates inside both covers to keep oil from going inside and I also run a different type of catch can on the PCV valve side too thats made for filtering oil out from the higher suction and whats evacuated resembles pancake batter............LOL
The pictures below were taken after going on a 1hr run.....
Do you notice the humidity inside the see-thru tube.....?
The suction of the intake removed that moisture...Just letting the crankcase vent out on its own so pressure will do its job but working against gravity will do very little to expel that water before turning to steam and steam is no good for bearings/ piston rings...
All of that moisture gets caught up inside your oil filter causing your oil filter to bypass doing its job and thats bad and is what causes the Ford Tick when the engine is at operating temps because trapped steam is escaping the filter!!
On my 410w Im planning on going with a remote dual filter setup .....The angle of the filter compromises proper filtering also so my remote setup the filters will be mounted vertically to take advantage of the whole of both filters without trapped air and water/steam..
Another thing I run is a water seperater filter on the return line back to my gastank and I go through a filter every oilchange...Thats mainly how the water gets into the crankcase as ethanol produces the water by pulling it from the air and it ends up getting mixed with the oil.......
The other way water gets in the crankcase and under the valvecovers is by good old naturally formed condensation when metal cools way down also during humid/rainny days...
When people comment about how much water is exitting my tailpipes I reply back Its better going out the pipes than staying in the pan.....LOL
Good Luck
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