Exorcising a '78

IICrew

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So, the short nose starter is NOT the correct one for the stock rad4 bell housing. I can say that the starter off an automatic works. I am getting delayed disengagement about every 4th start. It appears the bushing in the nose of the previous starter failed allowing the gear to walk away from the flywheel. This caused damage to almost all the teeth on flywheel. Did the bushing fail because I have the wrong starter or because it was out of the used parts bin ? I don't know but for now she runs again!!!!

I know we cannot find new flywheels. I am afraid to go to far from home with it damaged. Since I want to eventually do the Power Tour I started to search for a used one. Look what I found. Modern Driveline now has NEW "lightened" flywheels for stock II's !!!!!!!!!!!! They come in both 28 and 50oz. New!!!!! I am betting someone over there has a II.

While apart I rebuilt the motor mounts. The engine barely moves now when revving. They make the idle.... harsh from the drivers seat. I do have an aggressive cam. I can feel the engine in my seat now. They also make accel and decel feel tighter. The whole car feels tighter. More responsive to throttle inputs. The engine sits a little lower now as I removed the spacers I was using due to the old mounts sagging. The air cleaner used to touch the hood scoop but now there is a little bit of a gap.

The vibration is improving. Certainly still there but better than it was. I still get it at 1800 to 2100 rpm in 5th, as well as 4th at higher rpms. I found the front seal leaking on trans. 2nd gear takes finesse to engage and one mounting tab is broken where it meets the bell. I would like to get a new t5 and flywheel from MDL this winter. I think that should resolve the rest of the vibrations. Actually I hope that it helps but that's my story to justify getting the better 1st gear ratio and a stronger transmission.

With the exhaust quieter. By no means quiet. Just quieter I can hear the body creaking constantly. I tightened the subframe mounts which helped a little but the traction bars make all kinds of noise. At least I think it's them. Anyone else using the stumpys traction bars? Do they make a lot of noise or do I need to redo another item I thought I done did right? lol
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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With the exhaust quieter. By no means quiet. Just quieter I can hear the body creaking constantly. I tightened the subframe mounts which helped a little but the traction bars make all kinds of noise. At least I think it's them. Anyone else using the stumpys traction bars? Do they make a lot of noise or do I need to redo another item I thought I done did right? lol
Mine do. I also had the tail pipes hitting the subframe connectors but only on deceleration. I cut them off for now. So the only noise I've got now is the stumpys.
 

IICrew

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I am fairtly certain the vibrations are coming from the trans. I can run 4th gear to 4,000 rpm with minimal vibrations. Once i drop into 5th they start and continue until I drop below 45mph. The front seal is leaking and leaving larger and larger puddles.

So I sold some old crap laying around and ordered a new T5 from Modern Driveline. As always I was a day late and have to wait for another batch of input shafts to be machined before they can build and ship it. Looking at about 3 to 4 weeks. I basically went with their conversion kit minus cross member and bell which I already have. This way I can eliminate everything old in the driveline.

I also ordered a 2nd clutch, sn95 input shaft and steel bearing retainer for my old T5. It's going into one of the other cars with less hp once rebuilt.

I was informed the T5 conversion cross member manufacturer is no longer in business. MDL attempted to contact the company who bought him out but they are not responding. MDL told me they were going to start making them in house but they did not have a firm timetable as to when.
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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I was informed the T5 conversion cross member manufacturer is no longer in business. MDL attempted to contact the company who bought him out but they are not responding. MDL told me they were going to start making them in house but they did not have a firm timetable as to when.
Try one of these at CAR. It's what I used with my MDL kit and worked great.
 
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IICrew

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I picked one up from CAR last year when I installed the used T5. I just wanted another for whatever car the old t5 goes into. I havent even decided which car that is yet so I am gonna wait.

Enzio- you used MDL for your t5 correct? Are you happy with everything? I have a cable operated clutch and Rad4 bell. Otherwise I will have a very similar setup as you.
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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I picked one up from CAR last year when I installed the used T5. I just wanted another for whatever car the old t5 goes into. I havent even decided which car that is yet so I am gonna wait.

Enzio- you used MDL for your t5 correct? Are you happy with everything? I have a cable operated clutch and Rad4 bell. Otherwise I will have a very similar setup as you.
Yes I used MDL and bought the 1352-251 (I think that the number. I'd have to look it up to make sure.) I'm very happy. Next spring I'm going to enlarge the shifter hole slightly as the shifter rattles a little bit in 2nd and 4th because it's barely touching the hole in the tunnel. If you're buying the kit then get a bent shifter as I had a straight one and my knuckles were hitting the radio knobs. I switched to a hydraulic clutch kit as I'm using the spec clutch from CAR. (now MDL has a stock replacement but didn't when I bought mine) I imagine if you're using a stock replacement pressure plate the cable operated one will be fine.
 
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IICrew

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Have most of what I need to replace the T5! Modern Driveline sent me a new T5 including flywheel and clutch. New setup uses shoulder bolts vs the guide pins for clutch alignment. Otherwise the setup appears stock. I am using the sn95 input shaft and a proper pilot bushing now. They machined the steel bearing retainer to fit the rad4 bell.

Hoping to have it installed over the next few days. I am also swapping out the headers. I found a really old set of Hooker ceramic coated that had never been run. I am hoping they seal up better then the other set. Changing to a 100amp 1 wire alternator. Installing a NAPA reman starter. Addressing some other items found during shakedown. Once done I will need the headers tied into exhaust and another alignment done.

I may actually have it mechanically sound here soon!

IMG_20210929_144652342.jpg
 
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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
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Look at that new flywheel!
WooHoo that looks nice
 
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IICrew

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T top car. Still trying to get it drivable at highway speeds. The new trans wasn't cheap so the other cars are back burnered until this one is right. It is going to need a new diff as this one is leaking now. Probably from shaking like hell. Otherwise the driveline is going to be new. Then I can move back to the coupe. I have most of the parts for it but a friend had my engine hoist until last week and my back has been acting up so heavy work has been slow. The Mach I needs exhaust and wheels/tires. Minor electrical work and it's ready for a longer shakedown run. The old T5 and a c4 are at the trans shop now. One is going into my sons car.

Getting the old trans out and the new flywheel, bell and headers installed has me laid up again the past two days. Hoping Monday I can get back under there. A lift would be so nice.

I also dropped off the driveshaft to be re-re-rebalanced with a new yoke and u joints installed. Just in case they were part of or damaged by my vibration issues.
IMG_20210521_173450502(2).jpg


IMG_20210923_113615964.jpg
 
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IICrew

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Transmission is installed!!! Waiting on the driveshaft to be finished. Dropped it off last Monday and still waiting on it. It's a small shop which is dealing with covid cases and they do not have an eta. This is usually a day or two job but..... grrrr.

Waiting on miscellaneous parts now. Broke a spark plug dealing with the headers. I knew I should have removed them. Picked up Proform exhaust gaskets. They are thick double layer aluminum and crush down when tightening. Problem is the new to me headers have a thick mounting flange. Combined with the gasket my header bolts are too short. Installed a 1 wire alternator. Will need a longer belt as this case is a little bigger and cannot use the last inch of adjustment slot since case hits brackets.

FYI I had trouble getting trans to seat the last 3/4 inch. Pulled it apart to recheck everything and found the pilot bushing very tight. I had a rad4 laying around and pulled it's input shaft to use as a test fit. Had to smack it a couple times then pop it out. Did that 3 times and trans went together.

I had Modern Driveline include the Hurst 8" curved shift handle. It is tall. I am guessing a 5" shifter would be appropriate for our cars. They included a shift ball but it's thread is too small for the shifter I have. I reused my old shift knob but its a couple inches tall and makes the shifter feel way too tall.

MD has a II shifter. It places the shifter exactly where it should be using a rad4 bell.

Excuse the interior. It will come around on the wheel of Ka eventually. I wanted her mechanically sound before tackling it. I will have a black dash pad, carpet and seats but undecided on dash itself. I am tempted to snatch a black one from a parts car but wonder how the black/ red combo carried over to the interior works.

IMG_20211004_164757622.jpg
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I retained a stock shifter, but clamped the handle in a bench vise and used a piece of pipe to bend it back some. It gave it a more appropriate reach and the throws aren't a mile long. The other thing I did when I installed my transmission/shifter was that I did away with the rubber isolators and made a couple aluminum inserts for the shift handle. I do have a short throw shifter of some sort with hard stops waiting to be installed, but the stocker works well enough that I've not swapped it out yet.
 
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IICrew

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Back together!!! Ran her on jack stands up to 5th and no pinion jumping up and down! Driveshaft and pinion are smooth. Dropped her and ran around the block. Very loud with open headers so I was easy on it. Mostly. Supposed to baby the clutch the first 500 miles or so anyway. Shifter is very notchy and handle is too tall. Boy oh boy did it feel nice. Car feels more solid. 2nd gear is so nice to be able to downshift.

I now have a working speedo too! When replacing cable install speedo end first then install gear at transmission. I am using a pioneer cable CA-3032 it is longer than stock and stays away from the headers. It did not click onto speedo though. The plastic nipple that attaches it seems to be too small compared to OE cable. Plastic seems deformed. It stayed for the test drive but I don't know if it will stay attached.

There is still a vibration but it comes in around 60mph. It was a very short drive so I will see how she is after exhaust is sorted today. Hard to diag noises and vibrations with open headers.

Had local driveshaft company cut two driveshafts for this car and rechecked the 2nd one. They are fast, usually a day turn around time. This time I took it to another place an hour away. They took 8 days, had some covid issues so unusually slow according to them... but the driveshaft that was done and then rechecked at the other shop was out of balance. The old shop used 1 large weight 1/3 up the shaft. The new shop used two smaller weights near the ends of the shaft. They painted the shaft, and said no way they would reuse the yoke due to wear. Pricing was nearly identical for much higher quality of work.

5th seems much taller. I was only at 60 for less then a minute so my opinion may change on a longer drive. I was at 1600 ish rpm at 60. I believe I have a 3.40 rear gear. Thats what the tag claims. It needs rebuilt or replaced. I want to be able to cruise and take her on the highway. I will do burnouts but they will be few and far between. I will maybe take her down the dragstrip one day but that is not her intended purpose. I want to do the power tour and take her on trips. I don't know if going to 3.55 gears is worth it since I already have a 3.40 gear. 3.80 are probably too steep in my mind. Any opinions? Anyone running a t5 and happy or mad with their gearing choices?
 
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IICrew

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I used a Napa reman starter. Their book calls for one starter for both auto and manuals so I was doubtful it would work. The first start it hung up and wouldn't disengage for about 10 seconds. I was foolish and tried it a few more times. I pulled the coil and had my wife crank it a few times. Each time it sounded better. After about 5 starts it sounds fine. I am guessing the new flywheel and starter teeth had to mesh.
 

2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
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How many teeth on your starter drive?
Ebay says this is a stock v8 drive.... has nine teeth.
s-l64-3.jpg
s-l64-2.jpg

D6PZ-
 

extra_stout

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5th seems much taller. I was only at 60 for less then a minute so my opinion may change on a longer drive. I was at 1600 ish rpm at 60. I believe I have a 3.40 rear gear. Thats what the tag claims. It needs rebuilt or replaced. I want to be able to cruise and take her on the highway. I will do burnouts but they will be few and far between. I will maybe take her down the dragstrip one day but that is not her intended purpose. I want to do the power tour and take her on trips. I don't know if going to 3.55 gears is worth it since I already have a 3.40 gear. 3.80 are probably too steep in my mind. Any opinions? Anyone running a t5 and happy or mad with their gearing choices?
Rear end ratio depends strongly on rear tire diameter. What are you running?
In my 66 coupe I ran T5 with 3.55 and 225/60R15.
In my Mustang II I have a T5 with 2.89 and 195/50R15. With that smaller diamter 195/50 tire the rear end is like a 3.15 rear end ratio with the bigger tire of my 66 coupe... The Mustang II does have the stock explorer cam and a very good low end grunt. It really pulls hard. Compared to my 66 coupe I only miss the true trac diff, because it is a open diff in the Mustang II. If I ever will touch the diff again, I will put in a true trac and a 3.0 ring&pinion but just because you don't get the 2.89.
I think your T5 has the biggest "spread" between 1st and 5th. I like it when the drop from 5th to 4th is big, because than you have a good economic gear for traveling.
Do you have a hot cam? Or push the engine beyond 6000 RPM?
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I have a T5 and 3.55s with a 265-50/15 rear tire. I like it, but if I had it to do over again I think I'd go with 3.73s for just a touch more grunt from a stop. I'm not sure what my RPMs are at 55, but at ~40-45ish I'm around 14-1500 RPMs +/-. I"m sure I was in 5th gear here, but not 100% on that since it's an older pic.

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IICrew

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I will have to check the old starter again. When I swapped them I checked the gears and cone depth. They matched but I didn't actually count them. It was just those first few starts that it was hanging up. Yesterday I started it twice before dropping it off and it sounds fine. Mind you I had open headers and don't have it back from exhaust yet.

I have 225/60/15 rears. The drive line was vibrating like crazy before the trans swap and the pinion is soaked after about 500 miles driven. If I rebuild it I want a tru trac. Keeping current 3.40 gears its gonna be 600 to 800. New gears pushes that to 800 to a 1000. I can get an entire rebuilt pumpkin for 1200 or 1500 for hd case. Mission creep sucks. Especially when shiny things are involved.

I have a comp cams xe268. fairly aggressive. It pulls pretty good. I've pegged my 6,000 rpm tach. Once. It held together but I don't plan to do that often. Thats one reason I wanted a 2.95 first gear. 3.35 felt akin to a granny gear in my setup. Useless except for 7mph and below.

2Blue - That is so true. I argued with the Ford Parts guy back in 1987 over having a v8 in my car. Wasn't even 10 years old at the time. I needed a new auxiliary fuel tank back then and he would not even look it up because they don't exist. That was at Western Hills Ford. A fairly big dealership back then. I had to go across town to Northgate Ford to get my parts from then on. Disrespect our II's and I don't do business there anymore.

The Napa listing for our starters calls for just the one but that part number does not cross to any other vehicles in their book. I am hoping it was just seating issues with having new gears meshing. If not I have the last starter that worked sitting here but it was from my parts bin and may be 40 years old.

I also swapped out the old blackjack headers for a set of hookers. On the blackjacks I had to have the engine placed just right for the steering shaft to clear. The hookers have almost an inch clearance at the rag joint. They hug the bell much closer but clear fine. The hookers end dead center of trans crossmember humps where the blackjacks pointed at an angle towards the humps. The hooker are thicker metal all around and have bigger tubes. I had always run the blackjacks but I really like the fit of the hookers.
 

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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225/60/15 is very similar to 265-50/15 what @LILCBRA is running. I had in my 66 coupe the 3.35 1st gear. So you will not do wrong, with a 3.55 or even 3.73 what @LILCBRA also suggested. Keeping the 3.40 will just making a difference of 4.4% :shrug:
I think if your 3.4 ring&pinion is in good condition, this is also a good way to save some money.
Aiming for the tru trac is a very good choice!