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Engine Explorer intake vacuum line diagram

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mustang5L5
  • Start date Start date Aug 19, 2020

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2020
#1
  • Aug 19, 2020
  • #1
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram.

This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the boss. You can still carefully drill/tap the runner.

Upper manifold changed a few times. Some had COOLANT lines plumbed to one of the rear ports. For the most part, the below diagram is what you are trying to create to allow you to easily bolt on the explorer intake like the factory manifold. You can easily grab the vac lines and twist/pull to remove them. If you don't want to drill/tap for new hose barbs, you can carefully cut the tubes and hose clamp a line onto the stub. You do lose the securing ridge however.

Obviously if you are not running the EGR, or using a 93 Cobra upper intake with the Explorer lower, you do not need the coolant boss in the lower intake. There are technically two bosses at the rear of the lower. If for whatever reason you need to flip the intake to the driver's side TB orientation, drill/tap the other one. I drill/tapped both for 3/8" and plugged the unused port as it makes a good spot for a future temp sensor (although the coolant runs a little colder at the rear of the intake so keep this in mind)

Same goes for charcoal canister, or you are speed density. In that case, you can just drill/tap and plug those ports if not needed. I also route the PCV line closer to the factory 87-93 configuration in this diagram.

Use NPT sizes for the upper intake as reference only because the vac tube sizes changed over the years. The NPT size refers to what is drilled and tapped into the intake. I'm using 1/4" barb fittings for the vac lines. You can use whatever matched the vac hose you are using. You will need to source the NPT to barb fittings from various outfitters like your local hardware store, McMaster-Carr or maybe even Amazon



also, if you do have an early explorer intake like above and have the throttle body as well, it can be converted for use on the mustang. See below thread

Engine - Converting An Explorer 65mm Tb To Work On A Fox

This will be a few parts, as I make a little progress. I already have a converted explorer TB on my car but it's a later version with the enlarged TPS sensor mount. So anyway, here we are. Explorer on left, stock mustang on right. You can see the difference in the throttle linkage...
www.stangnet.com
 
Last edited: May 8, 2024
Reactions: dan50, Mindseye007, raven_ghostwolf and 4 others

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,868
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203
polk county florida
Aug 19, 2020
#2
  • Aug 19, 2020
  • #2
You should put this in the tech/how to thread.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2020
#3
  • Aug 19, 2020
  • #3
I will when back on a pc
 
Reactions: General karthief

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
543
156
53
Houston, TX
Aug 19, 2020
#4
  • Aug 19, 2020
  • #4
Cool. Need to put mine on already. Gotta finish porting it and hydro dip them. (Woodgrain)

You can swap lower intakes w/o having to disconnect fuel line right?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2020
#5
  • Aug 19, 2020
  • #5
yes, it can be done
 
Reactions: Foxslider

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Jan 12, 2021
#6
  • Jan 12, 2021
  • #6
Some pics for reference

 
L

LATT5133

Member
May 8, 2020
51
20
18
Tampa, Florida
Jan 12, 2021
#7
  • Jan 12, 2021
  • #7
Mustang5L5 said:
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram.

This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the boss. You can still carefully drill/tap the runner.

Upper manifold changed a few times. Some had COOLANT lines plumbed to one of the rear ports. For the most part, the below diagram is what you are trying to create to allow you to easily bolt on the explorer intake like the factory manifold. You can easily grab the vac lines and twist/pull to remove them. If you don't want to drill/tap for new hose barbs, you can carefully cut the tubes and hose clamp a line onto the stub. You do lose the securing ridge however.

Obviously if you are not running the EGR, or using a 93 Cobra upper intake with the Explorer lower, you do not need the coolant boss in the lower intake. There are technically two bosses at the rear of the lower. If for whatever reason you need to flip the intake to the driver's side TB orientation, drill/tap the other one. I drill/tapped both for 3/8" and plugged the unused port as it makes a good spot for a future temp sensor (although the coolant runs a little colder at the rear of the intake so keep this in mind)

Same goes for charcoal canister, or you are speed density. In that case, you can just drill/tap and plug those ports if not needed. I also route the PCV line closer to the factory 87-93 configuration in this diagram.

Use NPT sizes for the upper intake as reference only because the vac tube sizes changed over the years. The NPT size refers to what is drilled and tapped into the intake. I'm using 1/4" barb fittings for the vac lines. You can use whatever matched the vac hose you are using. You will need to source the NPT to barb fittings from various outfitters like your local hardware store, McMaster-Carr or maybe even Amazon

View attachment 658891

also, if you do have an early explorer intake like above and have the throttle body as well, it can be converted for use on the mustang. See below thread

Engine - Converting An Explorer 65mm Tb To Work On A Fox

This will be a few parts, as I make a little progress. I already have a converted explorer TB on my car but it's a later version with the enlarged TPS sensor mount. So anyway, here we are. Explorer on left, stock mustang on right. You can see the difference in the throttle linkage...
www.stangnet.com
Click to expand...
Question on this, so I have a non EGR version, bought the car that way. I want to get an internal EGR version just like what you have here. Was it difficult to have the EGR coolant provision drilled? Is the risk of cracking while drilling the hole really an issue or is it overblown? I want the internal EGR version so my entire pollution control system works properly as i do daily drive my FOX. Right now my coolant return line is just plugged? I would like your thoughts on this option versus just getting a new aftermarket manifold with all the proper provisions? Thanks for your time and for all of the awesome tips and info you put on here! All the Best Jason
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Jan 12, 2021
#8
  • Jan 12, 2021
  • #8
The rear coolant ports are easy to drill and tap. The key is going nice and slow with the right size drill bit that is nice and sharp.

once drilled, same technique with the tap and some cutting fluid. Go slow, back it out and clean out often and relube.

usually the cracking is caused by using the wrong size drill bit prior to tapping and going way to fast with the tap and not clearing the chips.
 
Reactions: LATT5133 and General karthief
L

LATT5133

Member
May 8, 2020
51
20
18
Tampa, Florida
Jan 14, 2021
#9
  • Jan 14, 2021
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
The rear coolant ports are easy to drill and tap. The key is going nice and slow with the right size drill bit that is nice and sharp.

once drilled, same technique with the tap and some cutting fluid. Go slow, back it out and clean out often and relube.

usually the cracking is caused by using the wrong size drill bit prior to tapping and going way to fast with the tap and not clearing the chips.
Click to expand...
thanks for the input!!
 
L

LATT5133

Member
May 8, 2020
51
20
18
Tampa, Florida
Feb 17, 2021
#10
  • Feb 17, 2021
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram.

This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the boss. You can still carefully drill/tap the runner.

Upper manifold changed a few times. Some had COOLANT lines plumbed to one of the rear ports. For the most part, the below diagram is what you are trying to create to allow you to easily bolt on the explorer intake like the factory manifold. You can easily grab the vac lines and twist/pull to remove them. If you don't want to drill/tap for new hose barbs, you can carefully cut the tubes and hose clamp a line onto the stub. You do lose the securing ridge however.

Obviously if you are not running the EGR, or using a 93 Cobra upper intake with the Explorer lower, you do not need the coolant boss in the lower intake. There are technically two bosses at the rear of the lower. If for whatever reason you need to flip the intake to the driver's side TB orientation, drill/tap the other one. I drill/tapped both for 3/8" and plugged the unused port as it makes a good spot for a future temp sensor (although the coolant runs a little colder at the rear of the intake so keep this in mind)

Same goes for charcoal canister, or you are speed density. In that case, you can just drill/tap and plug those ports if not needed. I also route the PCV line closer to the factory 87-93 configuration in this diagram.

Use NPT sizes for the upper intake as reference only because the vac tube sizes changed over the years. The NPT size refers to what is drilled and tapped into the intake. I'm using 1/4" barb fittings for the vac lines. You can use whatever matched the vac hose you are using. You will need to source the NPT to barb fittings from various outfitters like your local hardware store, McMaster-Carr or maybe even Amazon

View attachment 658891

also, if you do have an early explorer intake like above and have the throttle body as well, it can be converted for use on the mustang. See below thread

Engine - Converting An Explorer 65mm Tb To Work On A Fox

This will be a few parts, as I make a little progress. I already have a converted explorer TB on my car but it's a later version with the enlarged TPS sensor mount. So anyway, here we are. Explorer on left, stock mustang on right. You can see the difference in the throttle linkage...
www.stangnet.com
Click to expand...
Mike, I just lucked out and picked up an Explorer intake with EGR so I can restore the last bit of non working equipment in my Fox. My question is this, looking at the photo the PCV has two inputs on the Explorer intake vice the factory Fox intake. In your photo the Explorer intake feeds the PCV from the underside front and center port which runs to a T on the outer plenum then to the PCV. Is this necessary or can you omit one? I am asking to determine why it is run like this and if it is a necessity? Taking the whole set up to the bead blaster tomorrow and then purchasing my fittings to mimic your build. Thanks as always! Jason
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
Feb 17, 2021
#11
  • Feb 17, 2021
  • #11
I’m going off memory off an old post, but I believe the reasoning is oil pooling in the plenum. By having the two ports, oil has path back through the pcv but you still have an open vac port.

but I could be wrong. I haven’t looked into it extensively but all the factory oem Ford plenums use two lines for the pcv in a tee. One to bottom of plenum and one to the neck.
 
L

LATT5133

Member
May 8, 2020
51
20
18
Tampa, Florida
Feb 17, 2021
#12
  • Feb 17, 2021
  • #12
Mustang5L5 said:
I’m going off memory off an old post, but I believe the reasoning is oil pooling in the plenum. By having the two ports, oil has path back through the pcv but you still have an open vac port.

but I could be wrong. I haven’t looked into it extensively but all the factory oem Ford plenums use two lines for the pcv in a tee. One to bottom of plenum and one to the neck.
Click to expand...
That makes perfect sense, so it stays! Thanks again for your time!
 

jrichker

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Feb 19, 2021
#13
  • Feb 19, 2021
  • #13
@Mustang5L5

The single hose barb is an excellent place for the fuel pump pressure regulator. That way moving the A/C controls doesn't change the vacuum seen by the fuel pump pressure regulator. It also prevents fuel from getting in the vacuum system and power brake booster if the fuel pump pressure regulator diaphragm springs a leak,
 
Reactions: LATT5133

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,216
17,899
224
Massachusetts
May 8, 2024
#14
  • May 8, 2024
  • #14
Had to edit my image.

Someone took my image and edited out the credit in bottom left corner by photoshopping over it and now it's getting its way around like that. Grinds my gears.
 
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