Failed Emissions today ...

jfran430

New Member
Jan 8, 2007
36
0
0
Connecticut
Alright so i put the stock H-pipe on my car, change the oil, and filter. Nothing special and i brought it through emissions today (Connecticut). I failed the HC test the limit is 60 and i got 428 .. and i failed the CO%, limit is .32 and i got 3.03. Would giving it a full tuneup help me pass those parts. I know the kid who took it thorugh and he said he did everything he could but it still failed. He said to change the wires, plugs, fuel filter, maybe the cap and rotor and also possibly the EGR. If anyone else has any ideas please help me out! And let me know what you think of this so far too, i could use all the help i can get!
 
A full tune-up, DEFINITELY. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor, air filter, fuel filter, flush it out with Seafoam, clean the MAF wires, maybe clean the EGR valve, set your timing back to 10*, and double-check all of your vacuum lines. Then give 'er another shot and report back here. :)
 
Well i seafoamed it when i got the oil changed i forgot to mention that though and i ran F/I cleaner in the gas on my last fill up (still on that tank), and i have no major mods to my car at all. The smog pump is still there, the cats went on this morning. I have never touched the timing, but i cant speak for the previous owners, so it may be off, but i will check it. Also you use seafoam it doesnt go through the intake does it? If not what could i do to clean up the intake?
 
It depends on where you suck it in. I always use the PCV valve to slurp the Seafoam, and that will pull it through the intake. If you still have the original PCV valve hose, though, be careful that it's not so dried out and stiff that it cracks/breaks when you lift it to start feeding the Seafoam into it, otherwise you'll need to invest in about 2.5 feet of 3/8" fuel hose to replace it. Man, I wish I'd taken pictures of that HUGE cloud of smoke that poured outta Frankenstang's '86 GT when we Seafoamed it over the weekend! The entire highway behind the car completely vanished! :eek:
 
Well im not exactly sure of the hose i used, my cousin told me where to do it so i did, but it was directly behind the intake. Theres 4 hoses all together and i followed one to the back of the intake and pulled it off and used a longer piece of hose that i bought to suck it out of the bottle, but im not sure what hose it was...
 
High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO - EGR isn't working - fix it.
High HC - fuel mixture too rich - check O2 sensors, smog pump, and cats. Clean MAF element. Do the ethanol thing as suggested.

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

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IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.


4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
 
Wow .. thanks jrich, thats really halpful, im gonna give it atune p and fix the exhaust leak that happened today while changing the FREAKING H-pipes (very pissed about that, because im wondering if thats the main reason i failed, running too rich). But i will post up again on probably saterday, until then keep the info coming everyone and thanks everyone!
 
The drop was smaller than I remember, here is the before and after:

Failure
HC - reading (257) limit (220) fail
CO - reading (.24) limit (1.20) pass
CO2 - 10.76

After timing adjusted
HC: 139 (smog pump still disconnected)
CO: .11
CO2: 11.02


Since the last test I have hooked the smog pump back up, hoping for even lower numbers next year.
 
Acetone? Put it in my gas tank? what will that do? ... As i type this my car is in the muffler shop fixing the exhaust leak and fixing anythng else i couldn't spot, and i have a fuel filter, new wires, new plugs, new cap-rotor-, new EGR valve, and brand new O2 sensors on the way from CT warehouse, everything should be done by monday so i can get re-tested. I think my main probelm was the exhaust leak was causing it to run to rich, but replacing everything else doesnt sound like a bad idea and in the end it can only help.