Few 351 swap questions...yes i searched

The 69-74 blocks are stronger and should be the ones your looking for.I would convert to a carbed set-up, it nothing hard, you have to upgrade the fuel system anyway and it makes more power.A mild solid roller would make a fair street cam but a hydralic roller would be easier as you don't have to adjust lash and have expensive valve train componets.I would suggest solid mounts, my 357 is tearing my Energy Suspension poly motor mounts.

There are certain lobe seperation restrictions for an EFI cam. Any cam company can get you just what you need. You can run hydraulic roller, just need the right lifters and they will be expensive, but worth it. Same goes for a solid roller. Lifters are going to be about $3-400.

A solid is not that maintenance intensive. Adjust the rockers every 2-3 oil changes. Big deal. After you get used to it, you can probably knock it out in 20 minutes.

I have solid mounts in my car. Most of the vibration comes from the exhaust dumps, etc.

Unless you drop the motor, you will need a cowl hood.

IMO dont even bother with a 351. Go straight to a 393 or a 408. I like the 408 for a street car and keep the revs moderate. 393 in more a strip-street car that will see more time in the upper range (4500-7000).

Early block like mentioned.

351's in pickups and vans from the 90s had the roller blocks, but are thought to be a weaker casting.

There are some good EFI intakes out there. Even the spyder intake is carb style with injectors.

For carbs and a hot 351, I suggest a victor JR or a RPM air gap. Tall manifold, cowl induction or big shaker hole in the hood required.

This is a former stangnet member. 351 Victor Jr, c4, TFS stage 2 cam. Ran something like 11.40's. Kept the stock hood a opened it up for the air cleaner.

A flat cam can make some serious power, it is just that they cant open/close the valves as quickly as a roller. They need more ramp time to open the valves. That means that they will be lopier to make the same power as a more mild roller.

If I remember my numbers right, you will spend about $400 for a solid cam and about 1000 for a roller if starting from scratch. That inludes everything but rockers/valves. Ballpark numbers here. I talked to my engine builder, that is what he told me.

Yes, get an early block, the years that I mentioned are the best.You can make a good flat tappet solid roller for fairly cheap.He meant that for $400 dollars you would buy the cam, lifters, pushrods, and springs.

deck hieght

pre 72 351w blocks have a differant deck hieght i believe a little lower then the 72 and up blocks. something to keep in mind when picking the block. I have a 72 351w block in my stang soon to have a 408 stroker kit. 1 other thing to consider is if u want a 2 piece rear main seal or not. newer 351w blocks have a 1 piece. for some reason some shops i talked to said they like those blocks for stroker motors however i have heard same thing bout 2 piece seals so whatever you decide i guess

I meant to have a / between the flat tappet and solid roller part sorry for the confusion, the roller would cost about $250 more than the flat tappet.I don't know much about flat tappet cams but I would look for something probably in the .580 lift/240* dur @ .05 if I was gonna get a solid roller, so maybe just a little larger for the flat tappet .