Few 351 swap questions...yes i searched

[Bigstang1]

I just finished reading the "official" 351 thread at the top of the page and i learned alot. I still have a few questions tho. I havnt posted on here in a while but hopefull some of you will remember me.

1. What block should i start off with. I def want a used block but are there certain years that are better than others? I know the newer (not sure what years) 351's have roller cams and will readily accept 5.0 cams. If i can not obtain one of these what is next best?

2. If i go with an older block i was contemplating running a solid cam. I know that periodic adjusting is nessessary but is there any other problems with these cams in a summer daily driver? I wish to stay EFI...will the solid cam work with the efi sensors and everything? If not is it a lot of work to swap to carb? I know quite a bit about efi but not so much about carbs this is the only reason i wish to stay efi.

3. How harsh are solid motor mounts? I dont mind a daily driver that idles sick and shakes like a muscle im just worried about reliability. Do i have to use a solid trans mount as well or can i use the poly one that i just put on with my t5 swap? ]

Thanks guys

 

[bluevenom867]

The 69-74 blocks are stronger and should be the ones your looking for.I would convert to a carbed set-up, it nothing hard, you have to upgrade the fuel system anyway and it makes more power.A mild solid roller would make a fair street cam but a hydralic roller would be easier as you don't have to adjust lash and have expensive valve train componets.I would suggest solid mounts, my 357 is tearing my Energy Suspension poly motor mounts.

 

[hllon4whls]

There are certain lobe seperation restrictions for an EFI cam. Any cam company can get you just what you need. You can run hydraulic roller, just need the right lifters and they will be expensive, but worth it. Same goes for a solid roller. Lifters are going to be about $3-400.

A solid is not that maintenance intensive. Adjust the rockers every 2-3 oil changes. Big deal. After you get used to it, you can probably knock it out in 20 minutes.

I have solid mounts in my car. Most of the vibration comes from the exhaust dumps, etc.

Unless you drop the motor, you will need a cowl hood.

IMO dont even bother with a 351. Go straight to a 393 or a 408. I like the 408 for a street car and keep the revs moderate. 393 in more a strip-street car that will see more time in the upper range (4500-7000).

Early block like mentioned.

351's in pickups and vans from the 90s had the roller blocks, but are thought to be a weaker casting.

There are some good EFI intakes out there. Even the spyder intake is carb style with injectors.

For carbs and a hot 351, I suggest a victor JR or a RPM air gap. Tall manifold, cowl induction or big shaker hole in the hood required.

This is a former stangnet member. 351 Victor Jr, c4, TFS stage 2 cam. Ran something like 11.40's. Kept the stock hood a opened it up for the air cleaner.

 

[Bigstang1]

Thanks for the replys they help alot. I have a few follow up ?'s. How do i identify an earlier block from a later one? Casting numbers? So i cant use the stock replacement roller rockers from ford?...i have heard they are quite good for a reasonable price. how much power would going flat tappet cost me as compared to roller? As for the stroker...thats what i was planning on doing...most likley a 408. I have seen kits on ebay for like 600-700 from the mustang depot and they seem decent minus the hyper pistons. Maybe i can upgrade to forged. Thanks

 

[hllon4whls]

A flat cam can make some serious power, it is just that they cant open/close the valves as quickly as a roller. They need more ramp time to open the valves. That means that they will be lopier to make the same power as a more mild roller.

If I remember my numbers right, you will spend about $400 for a solid cam and about 1000 for a roller if starting from scratch. That inludes everything but rockers/valves. Ballpark numbers here. I talked to my engine builder, that is what he told me.

 

[Bigstang1]

$400 dollars for a cam? I know performance is not cheap but wow. I was looking in jegs and i found a solid 351W cam from lunati for 149 and a set of their mechanical lifters for 89.99. What else is nessessary for a solid setup? Will i still be able to use 5.0 heads such as afrs or tf? Will this solid setup work with efi being that it is so radical? thanks sorry i know what im talking about for the most part believe it or not but these posts make me sound dumb lol

Most importantly i am thinking about what block to start off with. In your opinions should i go for an earlier non-roller block and go with with either a hyd or solid flat tappet cam or get a roller block and stay hyd roller? What do you think is better. I am on a budget...college next year, however i most likley am going for auto technology so i may have some facilities at my disposal. thanks

 

[bluevenom867]

Yes, get an early block, the years that I mentioned are the best.You can make a good flat tappet solid roller for fairly cheap.He meant that for $400 dollars you would buy the cam, lifters, pushrods, and springs.

 

[86bluecobra]

deck hieght

pre 72 351w blocks have a differant deck hieght i believe a little lower then the 72 and up blocks. something to keep in mind when picking the block. I have a 72 351w block in my stang soon to have a 408 stroker kit. 1 other thing to consider is if u want a 2 piece rear main seal or not. newer 351w blocks have a 1 piece. for some reason some shops i talked to said they like those blocks for stroker motors however i have heard same thing bout 2 piece seals so whatever you decide i guess

 

[Bigstang1]

You can make a good flat tappet solid roller for fairly cheap.

Flat tappet solid roller? Which? I know its christmas eve and im bothing everyone about my 351 swap but i apprieciate it lol. SO let me get this straight...if i go with a non roller block...i can
a. Get a hydralic flat tappet
b. Get a solid flat tappet
c. Convert to roller

If i go flat tappet which is most likley...i want somthing that wont be totally unbearable on the street yet not have the best manners. I want a nasty idle and plenty of power up high with enough to get by down low. Can anyone give me any cam suggestions if i went flat tappet? thanks again

 

[bluevenom867]

I meant to have a / between the flat tappet and solid roller part sorry for the confusion, the roller would cost about $250 more than the flat tappet.I don't know much about flat tappet cams but I would look for something probably in the .580 lift/240* dur @ .05 if I was gonna get a solid roller, so maybe just a little larger for the flat tappet .