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finalizing my nitrous decision...help me out!

  • Thread starter Thread starter stonegod85
  • Start date Start date Feb 3, 2006
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H8IT4U

New Member
Dec 8, 2005
48
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Mississippi
Feb 7, 2006
#21
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #21
I have been running a wet kit for years on a car with that had 140,000 miles on it. I say go wet with the plate that way it is fool proof what kind of safety catches are you getting?
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
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Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 7, 2006
#22
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #22
i found that nx makes the plate kit...so i might go with that if my accufab plenum doesn't cause any clearance issues with my 97 hood. i plan on getting a WOT switch, window switch, fuel pressure cut off, and of course my nifty XCALII will be getting a nice dyno tune for nitrous put in...i don't think i will have any puddling problems with these precautions (as that is one of my main concerns...i just don't feel like opening my heads up to take shards of composite intake out.). the nx plate system if clearance isn't an issue or just the 20922-10 kit (non plate). oh yeah...and bottle heater. SamMan, i'm in columbia, sc and the humidity and heat index get insane over here in the summer...so i've decided to mount the bottle behind the passenger seat of inbetween them, this way it won't be sitting in an oven all day (i can turn the a/c on and hopefully that'll cool the bottle down to the respective pressure (1000, if i'm to understand that correctly). so hopefully this will be a successful addition to my 4.6! oh and i do have a heavy foot...silly ricer movie! if anyone knows anyone that is running the plate kit on a 94-98 with stock hood and accufab plenum, let me know. that should make this research process go alot quicker!
 

Red35th

Member
Apr 18, 2003
609
2
19
Houston, TX
Feb 7, 2006
#23
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #23
Just get a standard kit with a nozzle. The plate kit has lean spike issues if you install it running of the schrader.

Get a wet kit, window switch, colder plugs and check the a/f. I'm pulling 2* global for my 100 shot, the added security is worth the 10 hp loss.

I'd stay around a 75 shot, your transmission isn't the strongest out there.

If you need any specific help feel free to PM me.

For anyone else reading...CHECK YOUR A/F when you install the kit, it's about $50 versus a new engine/trans.
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
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Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 7, 2006
#24
  • Feb 7, 2006
  • #24
i don't know man....my aode is pretty beefy. thanks for the advise though with the kit...i think i'll just stick with a standard wet kit (less to worry about during the install, i.e. clearance issues). if i have any more questions i'll be sure to shoot you a pm red35th.
 

Turbo92PGT

Member
Feb 17, 2003
746
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16
Auburn Washington
Feb 8, 2006
#25
  • Feb 8, 2006
  • #25
I had a zex dry 60 shot which sprayed under the plenum with a 'plenum spacer'. no dyno numbers or anything but I went from 14.4 @ 97 with a 2.2 60' to a 13.7 @ 104 with a 2.475 60' that was all NON PI. All I had was intake and a midpipe and 4.10's

I would go with a dry kit just because of the chance of a nitrous backfire. The guys at blood enterprises (local performance shop) were telling me that the only wet kit they would run would be a direct port NOSZLE style kit, for the reason of nitrous backfiring and they said the intake manifold on these dont flow fuel through them very well =/ Take it for what its worth

I wouldn't spray under 3k
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
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Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 9, 2006
#26
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #26
ok....well here is the deal...i was able to talk to my buddy (who is constantly busy over here) who has his own shop and is the local nitrous guru. he has owned mustangs for 20 years now...and hasn't had one without the gas on it. he has had 5 4.6L's of his own, and dynoed at least 100 4.6L with nitrous that he installed. His advice was this (and i will be going with what he said as i've seen what his 4.6 monsters can do): DON'T GO WET! all you are paying for when you go wet is the initial punch (the nitrous sprays at 1000 psi and the fuel sprays at 40 psi, so the nitrous gets to the cylinders first and you have raw nitrous in there and one the fuel enters you have that initial punch.). while this feels good, it isn't good on the internals of a 4.6 SOHC. not to mention the composite intakes are not designed to have nitrous and fuel flowing through them...hence the backfire, and no matter what you do to avoid it...sooner or later it WILL happen. so i said, well i heard the dry kits can cause problems tricking the computer not dispersing the fuel evenly among the cylinders, thus causing lean spikes...he said that only happens if you spray though the MAF. if you do it the way you're supposed to (the way he does it) you won't have ANY issues. The NOS dry kit is the best kit to use on a 4.6. with a .73 jetting he guarantees 125 RWHP extra on the dyno...this is the same number he has gotten on all of the 4.6's he has dynoed and his own. The only reason to go wet is if you had a two stage system, then the 4.6 is already wound up from the 1st stage and it will perform correctly....but if you just want something fun to not worry about, that will still keep up or pass an LS1, and/or will drop your 1/4 by atleast 1.5-1.8 seconds...then a dry kit is the way to go.

i'm sure there will be several who disagree with this, but the bottom line is i know this guy and i've seen what he can create and it is amazing. if you want to get in touch with him, PM me and i'll connect you. otherwise thanks for the info guys, but i know exactly what i'll be doing now.
 

SamMan

New Member
Aug 20, 2005
121
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Denton, TX
Feb 9, 2006
#27
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #27
I'll take a blown up plastic intake over a melted cylinder any day of the week. Thats the first time I have heard any performance mechanic recommend dry over wet. Also 125 rwhp on a dry kit sounds really high without bigger injectors and/or some kind of fuel pump upgrade.
 

reddrgn01gt

New Member
Jun 8, 2005
161
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0
Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 9, 2006
#28
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #28
SamMan said:
I'll take a blown up plastic intake over a melted cylinder any day of the week. Thats the first time I have heard any performance mechanic recommend dry over wet. Also 125 rwhp on a dry kit sounds really high without bigger injectors and/or some kind of fuel pump upgrade.
Click to expand...

The NOS dry kit comes with an external fuel pump if i'm not mistaken. I am looking at picking up a noszle system myself next year though. Direct port is pretty safe and to my mind the extra dough is worth it.
 

QDRHRSE

New Member
Dec 31, 2002
1,590
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0
Palmdale, CA
Feb 9, 2006
#29
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #29
+1 on NX wet kits. I've used an NX wet kit with a shark nozzle a couple of times. Once you learn the ropes it's the best set up that I know of. You need to learn stuff like not hitting the unit when the bottle is off....I'm serious. With a 150 shot I went from 13.70's to 11.90's on one of my old cars....it was a 91 LX with an AOD- 150shot.
 

reddrgn01gt

New Member
Jun 8, 2005
161
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Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 9, 2006
#30
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #30
The only advantage dry and wet kits have over direct port injection is price. Why would you not want the nitrous and fuel injected together into the combustion chamber or the ability to tune each cylinder individually?
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
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0
Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 9, 2006
#31
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #31
i would love to have a direct port setup...but like you said, PRICE! as for the cylinder melting comment, that (according to my buddy) only happens when you shoot the nitrous through the MAF...if you go straight up to 6 inches away from the throttle body there is no "tricking" the computer, it just injects the same amount of fuel as it normally would but with the added help of (some kind of second solenoid that is dedicated to maxing out the fuel pump and injectors...i can't remember exactly what he said) so you see none of the injectors will get an odd amount of fuel they will all be equal...the guy i'm telling y'all about is 43 years old and has been doing this for 20 years...this is what he recommended from past experience, with over 100 dyno'd 4.6's he personally pulled and the installation of the kits as well, his best advice was dry (that is for the most reliability, safety, and substantial amount of power) while maybe not as powerful as a wet kit can be...but definitely good enough for a daily driver, you just won't have that initial punch. not sure if he is a member here or not, but maybe he would get on here and explain....not sure though as he doesn't rag on others views and opinions, he just has obtained his own over time with his experiences. 05115NOS this is the kit, it says it's for a 5.0 but it will work on a 97 4.6 (apparently) and you can see it has a lot more that the regular dry kits do not. check it out and tell me what y'all think.
 

jrc_03_gt

New Member
Jan 1, 2004
786
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0
Feb 9, 2006
#32
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #32
read up on nitous. Be smart.
 

reddrgn01gt

New Member
Jun 8, 2005
161
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0
Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 9, 2006
#33
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #33
mm&ff has a few tech articles on nitrous that are extremely informative. They also installed a nos dry kit on a 98 gt i believe and they hype it up unbelievably. Check out there tech article section on their website. My buddy is thinking about getting their dry kit when his refund check gets here.
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
0
0
Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 9, 2006
#34
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #34
jrc_03_gt said:
read up on nitous. Be smart.
Click to expand...

what was the point of posting that?
 

stonegod85

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
208
0
0
Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 9, 2006
#35
  • Feb 9, 2006
  • #35
thanks reddrgn01gt....here is what my friend is talking about: http://musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/0309mm_nitrous/ if you read all the way through you will notice that they even said they could do some jet work to add and additional 20-30 rwhp, but NOS doesn't recommend it due to the plastic intake...this has been proven to work anyway time and time again as my friend has done it on every 4.6 he has installed this kit on. so, this is definitely what i will be doing, and hopefully all those skeptical of the idea can now see why. This thread was entirely for research and informative purposes, not to argue or see who wants to show off...so don't get me wrong...i would just rather go this route soley because it will be the safest and most reliable, but i will be deprived of that punch in the face the wet system offers =(

thanks again guys for all of your help,
Gus
 
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