finally got my car back from the dyno...video

cenok is family

15 Year Member
Jun 25, 2003
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Norman, Ok
i was shooting low so it's about what i expected. it was done on a dynojet.

228rwhp 279rwtq

the car is running rich as hell. he leaned it out as much as he could and my air/fuel is still 10.0:1 :eek: i'm going back in a few weeks to have a diablo flip chip burnt and installed. that should fix the air/fuel. also, i took my bbk cold air off and put my stock intake and air box back on. WOW, my car pulls soo much better with the stock stuff! just an idea for anyone with a cold air kit on a mass air car to try out. well, without any further adu, here's the video!

View attachment 357205
 
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The numbers aren't too too bad for a bolt on car. The injectors could be causing the rich situation and the fact it's a 308 wont help power any. So you really have a bolt on 5.0 and right near 230 rwhp isn't awful. with the chip you could probably grab another 5-10 or so.

By the way amazing how different my car with Spintechs sounds. I guess the H vs the X really changes the tone a lot. Mine right around 2300-2500 gets insanely loud and raspy, and up top just screams, yours seems to be loud as well but deeper and more toned down (could be the video though).
 
Stock cam, stock heads im assuming? Power numbers seem a little low. I would get rid of those 24# injectors. Send the MAF back to pro-m and get it re-cal'd for 100 bucks and make sure they cal it for the stock airbox. That AFR is WAY off. I would want to see high 12's:1 on a combo like that...messing with fuel pressure is ok...but not ideal. The stock 19's would be much better for a stock headed combo and you could run near stock FP.

Those numbers are 30+ RWHP over a stock motor and with only an intake, TB, MAF, pullies and full exhaust, i guess the numbers arent that far off. With a better AFR and a custom chip...you should see around 250 to the wheels!

What was the timing set at? Where were the HP and TQ peaks! sounds nice btw!
 
yeah it's getting there. i'm putting a 150 shot on in about a month, so that should do me over till i get some heads and a cam next summer. yeah your car does sound a lot different. i think my car is a little more tone down than yours, but a lot of it in the video is my camera. i was using a pocket size fujifilm digital camera with a tiny microphone. lol

Stock cam, stock heads im assuming? Power numbers seem a little low. I would get rid of those 24# injectors. Send the MAF back to pro-m and get it re-cal'd for 100 bucks and make sure they cal it for the stock airbox. That AFR is WAY off. I would want to see high 12's:1 on a combo like that...messing with fuel pressure is ok...but not ideal. The stock 19's would be much better for a stock headed combo and you could run near stock FP.

Those numbers are 30+ RWHP over a stock motor and with only an intake, TB, MAF, pullies and full exhaust, i guess the numbers arent that far off. With a better AFR and a custom chip...you should see around 250 to the wheels!

What was the timing set at? Where were the HP and TQ peaks! sounds nice btw!

yeah it's stock heads and cam. that would be a good idea to send my maf in to get re-calibrated. 250 would be nice, if i can get it ready in time, i wanna run it at an event at the local track here called the buick ford shootout. just a bunch of grand nationals and stangs dukin it out. it's awesome!

i forgot to have them print out the dyno sheet, i don't remember where the peaks were. i'll go get a copy later today though. i'm not sure about the timing or f/p either. lol i'll probably check that out later today also. i just went up there and picked it up. haven't really had time to check anything yet.
 
A chip is just a waste of good money on a car so mildly modified, spend the money elsewhere. It's not a modular car, every fox should run right without a chip.
 
Tell that to all of us who tune their fairly mild cars. the stock tune leaves quite a bit to be desired.

Most would say my car should run perfect without a tune. Sure it ran great once it was warm....but it runs worlds better now. Im not saying a custom tune is going to net him a lot of power. But it will get those AFR's under control without an injector/MAF swap...and probably give him an extra 15-20 hp b/c of it.
 
numbers seem good for the mods seeing how you have stock heads and cam.
i think if you were to swap stock injectors back on you would see some more power.

intake and TB and all that bolt on stuff doesnt do hardly anything if the car still has stock heads and etc. when you get heads and cam the bolt ons really help the car come alive.

i'd get a blower :)
if you ever come up northeast near miami let me know we can meet and check out each others cars.

BTW are you getting the car tuned in the norman/okc area?? any info you have on them and etc?? and do u happen to know of any in tulsa?? ( a little closer lol)
 
Tell that to all of us who tune their fairly mild cars. the stock tune leaves quite a bit to be desired.

Most would say my car should run perfect without a tune. Sure it ran great once it was warm....but it runs worlds better now. Im not saying a custom tune is going to net him a lot of power. But it will get those AFR's under control without an injector/MAF swap...and probably give him an extra 15-20 hp b/c of it.

A tune (which only consists of timing and fuel pressure on a fox) and a chip are two different things.

Putting a chip in is going to cost what? $400+. That's good money that can go towards heads and get you 40rwhp.

And if your tune or your chip on on 230rwhp car gets you 20rwhp, sorry but your car was screwed up to begin with.
 
A tune (which only consists of timing and fuel pressure on a fox) and a chip are two different things.

Putting a chip in is going to cost what? $400+. That's good money that can go towards heads and get you 40rwhp.

And if your tune or your chip on on 230rwhp car gets you 20rwhp, sorry but your car was screwed up to begin with.

No, that is incorrect. A "tune" is not simply moving the distributor and using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel. Just like adding a calibrated MAFS is not "tuning" your injectors, it is tricking the PCM into adjusting the fuel for whatever injector the MAFS is calibrated for.

A true tune is getting inside the tables and functions that the PCM does and altering them to meet your needs. You need to understand how detailed the EEC really is. A LOT of factors come into play. Your PCM adjusts fuel depending on load, pressures, engine speed, and AF mixture. By truly getting into the tables within the PCM you can alter those and adjust accordingly. Even doing simple things with my Tweecer, I was able to clear up my idle issues, get my AF mixture straight, clear up any driveability issues that came along with my setup, and get the most out of my car...and I still have a TON to learn and a TON of things to change.

You figure a lot of people have too large of an injector, myself included. You can lower the fuel pressure all day long...but that alone isn't going to solve any problems. If you were to put a wideband O2 on any modified Mustang that has had no tuning, you would see that the AF jumps all over the place during different driving conditions. With a proper tune, you can get it right just about 100% of the time.

Personally I don't like the idea of paying for a custom tune, just because if you decide to change something in the future, you need to have it re-burned and placed on the dyno again. But that is just my opinion. Either way, adjusting the fuel pressure and bumping the timing is not tuning. If you are talking about a carb car with no computer running things, then yea I would obviously agree. But even the EECIV is a very complex program.
 
A stock motored or bolt on car should not need a custom chip. If the "tune" isn't close enough where a simple fuel pressure and timing move won't help and you need to go into the computer and get the right tune out of, something is wrong. We have two cars tuned with FP and timing. One E7 stock cammed car that runs 12.9s on radials and mid 12s on slicks, and another Explorer headed stock cammed car that runs low 12s on slicks. Neither car needs a chip as the "tune" with just FP and timing was perfectly fine. I know all cars are different but I can't warrent paying the $400+ for a chip and tune on a weak motored car.
 
A stock motored or bolt on car should not need a custom chip. If the "tune" isn't close enough where a simple fuel pressure and timing move won't help and you need to go into the computer and get the right tune out of, something is wrong. We have two cars tuned with FP and timing. One E7 stock cammed car that runs 12.9s on radials and mid 12s on slicks, and another Explorer headed stock cammed car that runs low 12s on slicks. Neither car needs a chip as the "tune" with just FP and timing was perfectly fine. I know all cars are different but I can't warrent paying the $400+ for a chip and tune on a weak motored car.

That's exactly what i'm saying.
My buddy owns a mustang shop, and i've seen it all over the years.

And Fett, if you needed to work with your tweecer to get your car to idle, still there was something else wrong with your car, An E7 with e cam combo should not need a tweecer. Half this forum has E cams, and their cars idle fine.
If you had taken the tweecer money and put it into your heads you'd be runner 3/4's of a second faster. And that 103mph would be 112mph.
I've seen cars that dyno'ed at 650rwhp stock comp no chip idle and run fine.

You guys all think that foxbody's are similar to 96+ mustangs and they are not. A well layed out combo and proper installation and you can pretty much do anything to your 5.0 and never need an ounce of computer work.
Chips and programmers only cover up existing problems, and half the time they make things worse not better.
 
well here's the way i see it. He has the wrong injectors on the car. Those big injectors are causing him to have extremely rich AFR's and b/c of that he probably leaving 15-20 hp on the table. He has two options. Hopefully he kept the stock injectors and he can just get the MAF re-cal'd for 100 bucks for the 19s and be done with it. The car will run fine...and he will most likely pick up that HP lost in the rich AFR's. Option two is to keep the injectors and MAF on there and get a tune to fix his rich condition. Either way option 1 will only be cheaper if he has the stock injectors. If he doesnt, it would cost him about the same amount of money to re-cal his MAF and buy injectors...as it would for a custom tune.

Either way his car will not run correctly without a tune if he continues to use those injectors. it will continue to run pig rich...the 10:1 AFR's prove it.
 
the chip costs $300 installed. yeah i realize my fuel system is a little big for my car. i plan on getting some thumpers and a small cam sometime by next summer though, reason being why i put them on. that and i spent the time/money rebuilding them, i don't wanna pull the top of my motor off to replace perfectly good injectors. i have 2 sets of 19# injectors in my garage, i'll probably end up doing it anyway.

foxfan, yeah the shop is in Moore...the town in between Norman and OKC. they're called powerhouse performance LLC and specialize in mustangs. A guy named Brian owns it. they're not too shabby, best place i could find around here and the only place i know of with a dyno in the okc metro area. if you want to check out their website, it's www.powerhouseperformance.com i know there's a place with a dynojet in tulsa, i just don't remember what they're called. yeah for sure, if i'm ever up that way i'll let you know. i have a few friends in the tulsa area i go visit from time to time. if you're ever down this way, shoot me a pm on here too.