Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

[Potomus Pete]

When the day comes that my wife and I need a family vehicle, I will be using all my powers to make sure we get a wagon rather than an SUV, lol.

Ok so I’m looking at these battery cables and I’m a little bit confused.


I understand the black cable is the negative and the short red cable is the positive but does anyone know what the longer red cable is for? Here’s what is described on AM (don’t judge me, I had some gift card money leftover). What is SW to ST? The google isn’t producing a lot of helpful results..is it something that connects to the alternator perhaps?

Its a nice set up , but you are going to have to work for it. Red wire is really cool.

 

[Steel1]

I upgraded my alternator to 3G years ago.
I have red from + battery terminal to solenoid, fused red from solenoid to alternator and red from solenoid to starter.
I'm guessing the extra wire in the ops kit could be the starter wire (given the length) ?
Also given the secret coding of SW to ST.... arter ?

 

[DudeStang]

I'm guessing you still have the stock alternator ?

I’m not sure...but a guy on another forum said that it looks like mine was upgraded to a 3g but that the stock wiring (black with orange stripe) was possibly adapted by whoever did it. He suggested double checking and that I might need to buy a heavier cable with lugs on it and run it from the back of the alternator to my starter relay. I feel like his suggestion is basically to do with the extra red cable what Steel1 already thought was how it is supposed to go...if that makes sense.

On my car the ground goes to the timing chain cover. Then there is a short red wire that goes from the positive battery post to the starter solenoid and another heavy gauge wire with a bit of red on it that goes from the other solenoid post to the starter.

There isn't anything going directly from the alternator to the starter solenoid. That I see.

Thanks for sharing pics. I tried to follow a cable that runs from the starter solenoid but it seemed to run towards the back of the engine after running under the front close to where the negative cable connects below. I couldn’t really look any further without putting the car up on ramps or jack stands.

I got the battery cables and terminals installed though.

 

[DudeStang]

Here’s the old battery cables/terminals...worse than I thought earlier.




Really happy with the new ones. Really good quality.

 

[1989FoxFan]

Nice Ride! I have a black 89 GT as a project car

 

[Olivethefet]

I dont have a 3g. Just a stock setup so yours could be different. That's why I included the pics.

 

[Steel1]

Definitely not the stock alternator, most likely 3G.

Fox Body Mustang 3G Alternator Upgrade DIY Article

One of the "must-have" modifications for your fox body Mustang is improving the charging system and replacing the factory alternator with a newer 3G that can help support electric fans,...

www.foxstang.com

 

[Boostedpimp]

You certainly have a 3g alternator installed which is good... factory one is terrible. Short red cable goes from battery positive terminal to solenoid on the fender by the battery. Put it to the post your current positive cable is going to. Longer red positive cables goes from that same post to the back of the alternator and I have mine routed through the radiator support area.

 

[DudeStang]

You certainly have a 3g alternator installed which is good... factory one is terrible. Short red cable goes from battery positive terminal to solenoid on the fender by the battery. Put it to the post your current positive cable is going to. Longer red positive cables goes from that same post to the back of the alternator and I have mine routed through the radiator support area.

Thanks for chiming in. I managed to get the battery cables installed last night...but not the alternator cable yet. I documented my efforts for the YouTube.


View: https://youtu.be/bQ3ZZ7CVnxc


Assuming by the back the alternator you’re talking about this part specifically? I can see that one of the cables/wires that goes to that appears to be routed towards the air intake box and maybe also through the radiator support area...but it’s hard to tell where it goes from there. It gets a little convoluted closer to the starter solenoid. I might need to pull the battery to track it better.

 

[Boostedpimp]

Assuming by the back the alternator you’re talking about this part specifically? I can see that one of the cables/wires that goes to that appears to be routed towards the air intake box and maybe also through the radiator support area...but it’s hard to tell where it goes from there. It gets a little convoluted closer to the starter solenoid. I might need to pull the battery to track it better.

Yes that larger gauge wire you circled is replaced with that longer red wire of yours and should run to the driver apron solenoid. Mine was routed by the airbox and through the radiator support around to the apron onto the solenoid. That long red wire your putting in should have a inline fuse though, I can't watch your vid right now as i'm on my works vpn working so if it doesn't you should pick one up prior to install.

 

[DudeStang]

So I took a look yesterday and upon first glance, it doesn't seem like the provided cable will be long enough, if I attempt to route it behind the headlights, under the intake box, etc.

I'm wondering if this kit was intended for Mustangs that don't have the 3G alternator upgrade...because a few people (on other forums as well) have said that I should make sure I have a fuse or breaker in between the alternator and starter relay. Also, I noticed that the starter/relay appears to be included on this particular cable for sale: https://www.americanmuscle.com/standard-power-wire-kit-8693.html

I don't want to spend another 50-60 bucks to get the right cable...so I guess I need to find a fuse or breaker that will work with the 4ga wire? Any suggestions?

Also, wanted to get some thoughts on the door hinges. I don't think my Fox has the "door sag" and it seems to close just fine....but the driver side door won't stay open, even if I open it all the way. Has anyone else experienced this and do you know if the door hinge kit will make a difference for this particular problem? Here's what my door hinges look like currently...based on some other searching, they don't look like new/replacements but I could be wrong. Thanks.

 

[Rdub6]

It’s likely that your tension spring is broken, causing the door to not stay open.

Mustang Lower Door Hinge Tension Spring (83-93) E2ZZ-6123504

Replace that tired lower tension spring on your 1983-1993 Fox Body Mustang today with this direct replacement.

lmr.com

 

[90sickfox]

This is what I used but from a different seller on amazon.

You can find a battery cable different lengths with just a hole on each end at a local hardware or parts store.

I used the following ends squeezed the edges and sides by the hole shut with vice grips ( when they make them there can be gaps. I then cut some electrical solder and fill the inside about 1/2 way. Lock them in the pliers by the hole end so it stands straight up like a cup. Then I strip the wire covering back to the depth of the inside of the fitting usually about a 1/2 inch. Heat the fitting with a propane torch until the solder melts. Stick the cable in the hot solder all the way to the bottom. After it cools you can put heat shrink on it or wrap with electrical tape.

You want rosin core solder for electrical stuff

The easiest way would be to figure out where you want to mount the fuse holder and buy a battery cable with holes already at both ends. Most of the mentioned stuff is in my garage already so making it would be my cheapest option.

I've got too much time on my hands at work. Carry on fellas

 

[Steel1]

I bought my 3G upgrade as a kit many moons ago, came with everything needed for the install.
I have a short piece of cable from solenoid to a mega fuse/holder which sits on the frame rail
just behind the battery. Then a longer piece of cable that goes from the mega fuse under the battery tray,
under the core support (radiator) then back and up to alternator.
I've used the same set-up with my 302 and also made it work for my 393 which has the alternator in a slightly
different location.

Looking at your photos it appears you would just need to purchase a mega fuse/holder like sickfox posted,
then make/purchase a short maybe 12" piece of cable to go from solenoid to mega fuse.
The long cable you already have seems like it would work from the other side of the fuse holder to your alternator.
Get the front of the car in the air and see how the cable is currently routed then you'll know how to attack it.

 

[Steel1]

Oh....I watched your video on installing the cables/terminals.
That combo tool wire cutter/crimper is meant for cutting and stripping small gauge wire like 10/8 awg max.
Do yourself a favor and get a set of linesman or diagonal cut pliers for cutting cables of that size.
As far as stripping them a razor blade or utility knife will do it.
Amazon product ASIN B000A0S4XKView: https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-American-Linemans-Pliers-2078209/dp/B000A0S4XK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=7DR3KEA3QPAN&dchild=1&keywords=linesman+pliers&qid=1587158282&sprefix=linesman%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-2

Amazon product ASIN B000A0OW1SView: https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers-2078308/dp/B000A0OW1S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34KNZJY47S68I&dchild=1&keywords=diagonal+cutting+pliers&qid=1587158320&sprefix=diagonal+%2Caps%2C283&sr=8-3

 

[DudeStang]

I bought my 3G upgrade as a kit many moons ago, came with everything needed for the install.
I have a short piece of cable from solenoid to a mega fuse/holder which sits on the frame rail
just behind the battery. Then a longer piece of cable that goes from the mega fuse under the battery tray,
under the core support (radiator) then back and up to alternator.
I've used the same set-up with my 302 and also made it work for my 393 which has the alternator in a slightly
different location.

Looking at your photos it appears you would just need to purchase a mega fuse/holder like sickfox posted,
then make/purchase a short maybe 12" piece of cable to go from solenoid to mega fuse.
The long cable you already have seems like it would work from the other side of the fuse holder to your alternator.
Get the front of the car in the air and see how the cable is currently routed then you'll know how to attack it.

I actually have a decent size piece of the cable from the positive battery cable left over....


So on the mega fuse/holder thing, does it need a have a minimum voltage rating or something along those lines? I understand next to nothing about fuses/electrical stuff. Would this work? Asking about others because the one 90sickfox posted....it seems the earliest I could get it would be in two-three weeks best case.



Amazon product ASIN B076278Y72View: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Breaker-Holder-Protection-SKCB-04-0-200A/dp/B076278Y72

 

[Blown88GT]

I actually have a decent size piece of the cable from the positive battery cable left over....


So on the mega fuse/holder thing, does it need a have a minimum voltage rating or something along those lines? I understand next to nothing about fuses/electrical stuff. Would this work? Asking about others because the one 90sickfox posted....it seems the earliest I could get it would be in two-three weeks best case.



Amazon product ASIN B076278Y72View: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Breaker-Holder-Protection-SKCB-04-0-200A/dp/B076278Y72

The MegaFuse is what you want to use. 150amps. They are designed for 12VDC application, not 120VAC.

 

[Steel1]

The first thing I would do is trace the large cable coming off the back of your current alternator.
If it was wired correctly you may already have an in line fuse and at that point would just be replacing the cables.
If you're current set up isn't fused you could use one of these, looks like the same style I've been using (only could find 2 pack).
Amazon product ASIN B083TP287VView: https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Holder-Solid-vehicles-Amplifier/dp/B083TP287V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CUVI3BU45CNL&dchild=1&keywords=150a+anl+fuse&qid=1587297105&s=automotive&sprefix=150a+%2Cautomotive%2C160&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTkdTVVNSM1NFVEhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzYzOTUwTTJIT09SU0RCNEE3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMjk3NjMxRDRLWkVCUkVCMTdSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

The piece of left over battery cable you have should work depending on where the in line fuse is mounted.
Here's a couple of quick pics I snapped to give you an idea, you can see the mega fuse down on the frame rail, a short piece of
cable from the solenoid looping around and attached to one side of fuse (it's covered in plastic black plastic loom).
Second pic shows where it is attached on alternator.

You'll have to attach ring terminals to both ends of the short piece of cable, they should be soldered on and have heat shrink tubing applied.
It's not difficult , sickfox linked some terminals etc., there are a lot of how to videos for this on Youtube but get yourself the correct tools to do it.
You're tackling some of the many maintenance type jobs that go with owning a car of this age, keep up the good work !

 

[DudeStang]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the detailed inputs and photos for context. I ordered the megafuse but it could be a few weeks before it arrives.

In the meanwhile, I managed to switch out the fuel filter this weekend without burning down my car or house. Also confirmed that my low fuel light seems to work, at least partially. After installing the new fuel filter, I took the car for a short drive to the gas station and filled up. I noticed when I got home that my fuel gauge appears to read that I have more than a full tank, lol. Is this normal?


Also, my wife helped me take some ridiculous pictures for entry in the Radwood Virtual Car Show on Instagram over the weekend. I didn't get selected for any of the award categories but it was still pretty fun and some of the other entries were very entertaining.



More of my photos here: https://www.instagram.com/tacopotatomustang/

I am waiting on a few things to arrive this week - power steering fluid (to see if I can make the crazy loudness go away), a Steeda tri-ax shifter handle (just want to give it a try and see if it makes any difference), and urethane spring isolators for front and rear.

On the last bit, the isolators, I was planning to try and install them at the same time when I do my sway bar end links but now I'm wondering if maybe I should wait until I get new springs and shocks....though it might be a while before that happens. Any thoughts?

 

[Olivethefet]

Are you planning on getting an alignment done on the car after you change the end links? When you change out or take loose anything on the front end that can affect the alignment you, in my opinion, need to have the alignment checked. I've got to take my car to get the alignment because I took the struts loose.

If the car is getting by ok as it is now I would wait to change any of that stuff and do it all at once. That way you only have to get the alignment checked/corrected once. Taking the springs out can be a chore and taking them out just to change isolators knowing that you are going to change the springs later is just punishing yourself LOL.