Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

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Are you planning on getting an alignment done on the car after you change the end links? When you change out or take loose anything on the front end that can affect the alignment you, in my opinion, need to have the alignment checked. I've got to take my car to get the alignment because I took the struts loose.

If the car is getting by ok as it is now I would wait to change any of that stuff and do it all at once. That way you only have to get the alignment checked/corrected once. Taking the springs out can be a chore and taking them out just to change isolators knowing that you are going to change the springs later is just punishing yourself LOL.
Yeah, I pretty much had the same thought process (did the suspension on my 2014 last year) but was hoping someone else had some other rationale and would say something like "oh yeah, springs are easy and you don't need an alignment after doing sway bar end links", lol.

I might have a chance to get a set of what appear to be Eibach lowering springs second hand for $80 including shipping, as well as an Explorer 65 mm throttle body for $30...not sure if the TB is worth it since I don't have any other mods but was thinking I might try to get the springs, then get a set of Koni Orange shocks/struts in the next few months and do everything together and then try to get an alignment.
 
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I'm no expert, just like to mess with this stuff as a hobby. I made the mistake already. I rebuilt the front end of the car. New everything except the springs. Put it all back together got the alignment done, dove it a hand full of miles then decided to change the springs. Now I've got to spend that money again to get the alignment checked.

If you get lowing springs you might want to look into getting bump steer end links. It corrects the steering geometry. This is what I put on my car.


Sounds like a decent deal on the Eibach springs. I dont have a clue about the throttle body though.
 
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Olivethefet, thanks for the rec on the bump steer kit. Will look into that when I get my suspension fully pieced together.

Got a new video up with the fuel filter replacement, arrival of some more parts, and installing/testing out the Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Handle (just the handle, not the actual replacement shifter):



Plans for this week include tracing the alternator cable to see if I can figure out if there's already a mega fuse or something similar somewhere hidden in there. Also going to remove the air intake silencer since I'm probably going to have to remove the air box anyways while I'm tracing the alternator cable. Also got some additional wire brushes for the drill so I want to pull the battery and tray again and get back to working on the rust.

Also thinking about maybe draining and fully replacing the power steering fluid or just replacing the power steering pump since I have an extra one that came in the box of parts that came with the car. The loud whining noise has become worse than the Flowmaster drone the last few times I've driven the car.
 
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Finally took out the sacred silencer yesterday....will take $6,500 cash in non-sequential bills and consider trades for full supercharger kit for a 2014 Mustang 5.0

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Also, noticed this underneath the alternator...looks like an AC compressor but in a different location than where it normally is (I think?). Does this mean I still have an AC compressor or is this something that's normal with an AC relocation (having it moved somewhere else or something)? I saw some pics on google images and it almost looks like a newer 94-95 5.0 setup with the AC compressor underneath the alternator.
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Pulled this pic from here on LMR:
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Man...I feel dumb. I forgot that smog pumps even existed.

Also, I traced what I could see of the alternator cable that runs to the starter solenoid, after removing the air box. I will get the car up on jack stands tonight or tomorrow but I'm not seeing any indication of an inline fuse or breaker.

Here's another thing I noticed that has two lines coming out of it, one which has been cut and taped off and the other which is definitely not connected to anything on one end. This is underneath the proportioning valve.
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Here's the end of the wire/cable that is still mostly intact and not connected to anything on this end:
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Those two little things on the strut tower below the proportioning valve are part of the emissions equipment. They are still on my car, but not hooked up. In the second pic. That looks like a vacuum line. Probably has something to do with emissions stuff as well. Maybe someone else that knows more will come in and drop some knowledge on us.
 
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You missing some plumbing that comes off of that smog pump. My car was the same way when I got it. @Mustang5L5 enlightened me a while back on this. My x pipe doesn't have the connection for air tube that goes down from that hose to the cats. I think that's why mine was deleted. I found all that stuff on ebay for cheap.

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You missing some plumbing that comes off of that smog pump. My car was the same way when I got it. @Mustang5L5 enlightened me a while back on this. My x pipe doesn't have the connection for air tube that goes down from that hose to the cats. I think that's why mine was deleted. I found all that stuff on ebay for cheap.

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Thanks Blakeus. The x-pipe on my car is O/R so I also don't have cats.

When you say you found the stuff on ebay, do you mean you did that because you returned the smog pump to stock somehow, even without cats?

It looks like I have the air bypass valve and air diverter from my box of spare parts..
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That's the stuff. They probably just removed that when they installed the new x pipe. No, I haven't installed that stuff yet. Still running my aftermarket x pipe with cats, just wanted to have those parts just in case. I don't think that the new x pipes with cats have the provision for that tube, someone correct me if im wrong. I don't think that stuff is really "needed" with our set ups. My car passes emissions just fine. Again, someone correct me if im wrong.
 
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The aftermarket mid pipes with cats doesn't use your factory smog pump, if your running factory h pipe with the cats then you need the smog pump hooked up to keep them cool or they'll over heat and clog.

If your car isn't smogged and doesn't have factory mid pipe you can safely leave or remove the TAD and TAB which is what you have pictured with the vacuum lines disconnected. They are part of the smog system that you are not running. Can also remove smog pump and put a smaller belt if desired.
 
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All that stuff can be removed and boxed together. That emissions stuff will get good money...but I wouldn't sell them. I'd clean it all up and bag and box them with the bolts and brackets. It removes a bunch of unnecessary clutter. You will need a shorter belt but everything else will stay the same.

This is why I won't chop up or alter my factory wiring harnesses. One day someone will want it.
 
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I agree with @90sickfox . I have everything I’ve taken off in boxes (one day I’ll clean it up real good). And any wire that I couldn’t remove because there was no plug, I’ve neatly tucked out of sight..... but its there if ever needed again.
Although this car will never go back to stock, I do appreciate a completely stock car, and maybe somebody else can use them some day!
 
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Heat gun finally arrived..along with some other random stuff. On Friday evening, something else arrived. Our foster dog, Lady, gave birth to one puppy at our house and then was having trouble delivering the next one. We ended up having to take her to the clinic and she got an emergency c-section. An little over an hour later we were driving home with Lady and six tiny puppies. Hell of a Friday, lol.

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Once things settled down, I managed to get some garage time. Took advantage of the heat gun and started removing the body molding stripe.
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I need to look a little bit closer but it seems like the stripe on the door moldings is possibly a different material or might even be painted on. I didn't want to melt the door moldings so I didn't mess with those much longer while removing the rest of the stripe around the car. I also got the front driver side wheel off again and started doing some more work on the rust. I need some spray bottles for the degreaser and metal treatment from the POR-15 kit. I had initially ordered them from Chemical Guys but the order got cancelled due to lack of inventory. Fortunately I was able to pick up a couple of alternatives with my grocery pick-up at Wal-Mart today. Hopefully these will work fine and I can get at least one side of the apron done with POR-15.
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On the alternator power cable situation, I finally just sucked it up and ordered the SR performance cable which already has the 200 amp in-line fuse. I figured between everything else I'd need to order to do it myself, I'd only be saving 15 bucks and at least with this kit I have everything already put together. That should be here in a day or two.

Anyways, I got a new video up documenting some of these things.


View: https://youtu.be/j8HbWBLRPws
 
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The aftermarket mid pipes with cats doesn't use your factory smog pump, if your running factory h pipe with the cats then you need the smog pump hooked up to keep them cool or they'll over heat and clog.

If your car isn't smogged and doesn't have factory mid pipe you can safely leave or remove the TAD and TAB which is what you have pictured with the vacuum lines disconnected. They are part of the smog system that you are not running. Can also remove smog pump and put a smaller belt if desired.

The smog pump failed on my ‘86 relatively early, and it came off the car. I’ve probably put 40,000 miles on it since then with no catalytic converter problems.
 
The stripes in the door moldings IS different that the rest. It’s embedded in the ends. It’ll come out though. Just got to work at it Dude. I got mine out a couple years ago. It’s definitely a thicker stripe. This is when I first bought mine.
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The stripes in the door moldings IS different that the rest. It’s embedded in the ends. It’ll come out though. Just got to work at it Dude. I got mine out a couple years ago. It’s definitely a thicker stripe. This is when I first bought mine.
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Looked at it a bit closer tonight...can see it now. Thanks!
 
So this arrived today..
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Started undoing the cable currently on the alternator...
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Basically looks like the alternator power cable thing (black/orange) was lined up with the yellow and green wires that also come off the alternator...
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The green and yellow wires look like they’ve seen better days.

Goddamnit, I pressed post too early...stand by