Finally! Unique coilovers and Steeroids R&P are in
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Steeroids sez:
Come to think of it, maybe there was just a slight bit of play in the system and that's why it wasn't lined up exactly? One joint (steering column side) might turn slightly before it starts to turn the R&P side.
Steeroids says "the binding that you are feeling is most likely the upper ujoint binding against itself as it rotates. It could be taht the angle on the upper joint is too extreme for it to handle. Is there any visual evidence of contact? There are typically small nicks on the yoke if there is contact. (I couldn't see any nicks and I watched it turn while my girlfriend turned the wheel and it seemed to rotate fine.)
they went on to say "if you can reduce the angle of the upper u-joint by moving the end of the steering column more towards the engine, that may helfp. If you can't then we may have to exchange your u-joint assembly for one with greater ability for angularity." (I assume w/more joints in there)
I still have to stick my head in there and check it for nicks, but I'm gonna take advantage of our great weather and go out and put some nicks in it!
They reiterated the caster issue, I have to check out what it was set to.
jb
ron67fb said:The top does look more twisted, but since it's a D shaft, shouldn't it line itself up?That joint's got a huge swing to it. Is the U-joint touching the yoke, perhaps?
What do the Steeroid guys think?
Come to think of it, maybe there was just a slight bit of play in the system and that's why it wasn't lined up exactly? One joint (steering column side) might turn slightly before it starts to turn the R&P side.
Steeroids says "the binding that you are feeling is most likely the upper ujoint binding against itself as it rotates. It could be taht the angle on the upper joint is too extreme for it to handle. Is there any visual evidence of contact? There are typically small nicks on the yoke if there is contact. (I couldn't see any nicks and I watched it turn while my girlfriend turned the wheel and it seemed to rotate fine.)
they went on to say "if you can reduce the angle of the upper u-joint by moving the end of the steering column more towards the engine, that may helfp. If you can't then we may have to exchange your u-joint assembly for one with greater ability for angularity." (I assume w/more joints in there)
I still have to stick my head in there and check it for nicks, but I'm gonna take advantage of our great weather and go out and put some nicks in it!
They reiterated the caster issue, I have to check out what it was set to.
jb
Is there a way to cut the steering column shaft shorter, so that you can install a longer D shaft? I think it'll look kinda hokey with more U-joints, let alone tilting the entire shaft towards the engine. They might be talking about a double U-joint to replace your single one, or a higher angle-rated U-joint to replace yours which is probably what they should've included in the first place.
Your pic looks like they're touching. Can you even get a feeler gauge in there? The parts rotate together so there may not be any nicks or scratches.
Looks like you're part of their R&D process.
Your pic looks like they're touching. Can you even get a feeler gauge in there? The parts rotate together so there may not be any nicks or scratches.
Looks like you're part of their R&D process.
maybe the rack just wasn't broken in
Here's something from the TCP website - I have Steeroids of course but it's related. I should lift the front of the car and see if it's notchy then. It does seem to have become less noticeable, but I might just be used to it. The rack itself could just not be broken in yet.
(brings old thread back from the dead)
"Rack & Pinion - Poor 'return to center'
| product | top |
Indicates lack of centering force or excessive friction preventing the steering from self centering at driving speeds.
Possible Issues:
Rack not 'broken in'
Complete first 1,000 miles of street driving and return to center should improve.
Pinion adjustment too tight
With front wheels raised off ground, check for 'notchy' feeling in steering. Steering should feel smooth and have zero to 1/8" of play at the steering wheel.
If 'notchy' or play is more than 1/8" the pinion set screw will need to be adjusted.
Loosen large lock nut (15/16" hex) surrounding set screw (5/16" allen) at bottom of pinion housing.
The set screw should be tightened while the steering wheel is rocked back and forth until it is seated then backed off 1/4 turn. Fine adjustments may need to be made from this base point.
Tighten lock nut while holding set screw to prevent it from tightening further.
Not enough caster in alignment
Adding another 1-1/2 to 2 degrees of caster to the alignment will help the return to center.
Caster can be added by shortening the strut rod or by adjusting the upper control arm to move the top of the spindle rearward.
Use the same alignment method for both sides of the vehicle.
Be sure to tighten jam nuts after adjustments have been completed."
Here's something from the TCP website - I have Steeroids of course but it's related. I should lift the front of the car and see if it's notchy then. It does seem to have become less noticeable, but I might just be used to it. The rack itself could just not be broken in yet.
(brings old thread back from the dead)
"Rack & Pinion - Poor 'return to center'
| product | top |
Indicates lack of centering force or excessive friction preventing the steering from self centering at driving speeds.
Possible Issues:
Rack not 'broken in'
Complete first 1,000 miles of street driving and return to center should improve.
Pinion adjustment too tight
With front wheels raised off ground, check for 'notchy' feeling in steering. Steering should feel smooth and have zero to 1/8" of play at the steering wheel.
If 'notchy' or play is more than 1/8" the pinion set screw will need to be adjusted.
Loosen large lock nut (15/16" hex) surrounding set screw (5/16" allen) at bottom of pinion housing.
The set screw should be tightened while the steering wheel is rocked back and forth until it is seated then backed off 1/4 turn. Fine adjustments may need to be made from this base point.
Tighten lock nut while holding set screw to prevent it from tightening further.
Not enough caster in alignment
Adding another 1-1/2 to 2 degrees of caster to the alignment will help the return to center.
Caster can be added by shortening the strut rod or by adjusting the upper control arm to move the top of the spindle rearward.
Use the same alignment method for both sides of the vehicle.
Be sure to tighten jam nuts after adjustments have been completed."
70vert said:
You do know that since the shaft is collapsible, that you can adjust the length of the shaft. It is a two piece design, and if you take a column from one car and stick it in another car you will find that it is either too short or too long. I found this out on my 70 mach. I had a spare column from another 70 and i stuck it in there and the end of the shaft wouldn't reach the steering box. I took the column completely apart and found it to be a two piece design, and a tap of the hammer and the length was adjustable. Same goes for shortening it. It is probably frozen in it's spot since it has been there for so long, but a good whack and it will become adjustable. Just an FYI.
