Firing Order & A Couple Other Questions?

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
20
49
Las Vegas, NV
Hi Folks,
I'm gettin' close. Hope to wake the neighbors in the late night/early AM in the next few days. A few last minute dummy questions:

>> Firing order/initial timing specs for 97 and up 5.0/B303 cam?

>> Timing pointer on driver side of engine bolts to the bottom timing cover bolt and to a small boss on the timing cover. What size/kind of bolt/screw into the small boss?

>> What grade/type of bolt/washer for crank pulley to damper?

>> Water pump (cast iron) gasket sealer on pump side or timing cover side or none? Torque spec?

>> Intake gaskets, not sure of brand but have a part number "M-9439-B302", they are shiny black with blue around the ports on one side, dull black on the other side. Which side goes to the head? Any sealer anywhere? What/where to do with the little "D" shaped, asbestos looking gaskets. Heads are GT40-P, intake is Performer RPM. I only want to mount this once!

>> Does this B303 cam need a break in?

Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Gene
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Hi Folks,
I'm gettin' close. Hope to wake the neighbors in the late night/early AM in the next few days. A few last minute dummy questions:

>> Firing order/initial timing specs for 97 and up 5.0/B303 cam?

>> Timing pointer on driver side of engine bolts to the bottom timing cover bolt and to a small boss on the timing cover. What size/kind of bolt/screw into the small boss?

>> What grade/type of bolt/washer for crank pulley to damper?

>> Water pump (cast iron) gasket sealer on pump side or timing cover side or none? Torque spec?

>> Intake gaskets, not sure of brand but have a part number "M-9439-B302", they are shiny black with blue around the ports on one side, dull black on the other side. Which side goes to the head? Any sealer anywhere? What/where to do with the little "D" shaped, asbestos looking gaskets. Heads are GT40-P, intake is Performer RPM. I only want to mount this once!

>> Does this B303 cam need a break in?

Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Gene
Firing order is 13726548. That small screw is a short sheet metal screw. Crank pulley to damper is a 3/8"NC grade 8. I use a thin film of sealer (Permatex Ultra Blue) on all gasket and sealing surfaces. Those POS gaskets are trouble (Print-O-Seal = POS, there's another definition too, the more common one) If you're going to use em, the blue sealer side goes toward the intake. Again, I use a thin film of sealer around coolant ports. Asbestos looking gaskets ? Not sure what those are, unless they're for an EGR valve. B303 needs no break in time, nor do any other roller cams. You ARE aware you need roller lifters with that cam don't you ?
 
D.Hearne,
Thanks for your response. Thats what I assumed on the firing order, bolts and screw, just wanted to confirm. Any better suggestion for intake gaskets? These gaskets came with the engine, which was bought brand new as a long block from a Ford Motorsports dealer 9 or so years back and has been stored triple bagged on a stand in my garage. Yes, it's a late model block (for an Explorer, I believe) with GT40-P heads, hypereutic pistons, B303 cam, roller lifters, 1.7/1 roller rockers, Performer RPM intake, 4100/1.12" venturi carb modded to manual secondaries and jetted for my application, Mac jet coated (special for the "P" heads) Tri-Y headers. It's getting hooked to a 92-93 T5 from an HO Mustang and out to an 8" rear that will likely get 3.25 gears (currently 2.79) depending on how tall the tires end up being. No Trac-Loc yet. Not trying to build a drag car, but a fun to drive highway cruiser. Should have some pretty good low to mid RPM oomph and do a comfortable 75-85 down the road with some pretty reasonable (mid -upper 20s) fuel mileage. This project culmination has been a long time coming and I AM STOKED! :banana: The questions will probably get more hot and heavy the closer I get to completion, so please be patient with me.
Thanks Again,
Gene
 
i agree with DH on using felpro intake gaskets without the built on silcon sealer, i prefer to use my own sealer on the water ports. a thin coat of black rtv on both sides is all you need to prevent leaks. i also toss the cork end gaskets and use a bead of black rtv there also. put a little extra in the corners where the head, intake and block all meet to prevent oil leaks. i also like to torque my intakes to 30ft/lbs rather than 25ft/lbs(the factory does allow this to cure a vacuum leak if needed). i also torque my intakes using edelbrocks recommended torque pattern. in this one you start by torquing the outer corner bolts in a crisscross pattern, then use the factory pattern for the rest of the bolts. i also go back over the bolts after i have done the initial torque to make sure all the bolts have the proper torque on them before i fire the engine. you can retorque them after you have the first heat cycle in the engine.
 
Guys,
What about the exhaust crossover from the center port of one head to the other head that goes under the carb area on a Performer RPM. Or is that a cooling system port in the middle of the head, about 1/2" wide by 1" tall? The FelPro 1262 has no opening for this and if just blocking it off, how do I make sure it's sealed and is blocking it off even a good idea?
TIA,
Gene
 
I block off all mine. The gaskets usually come with a thin metal plate that blocks that port. Just slip it into place once you set the intake down, before torqing the bolts. That passage is only there to improve cold weather warmups. It does no other good after the engine's warmed.
 
D.Hearne,
No block off plates in the 1262 package.:shrug: Does it actually need the plates? I would think that without them I would develop an annoying exhaust (tick-tick....) leak. By the way, the package DID come with four of the useless end seals:rolleyes:.
Thanx,
Gene
 
The end seals are not "useless" I use em with every intake, except ones that sit too low and the gaskets are too thick to compress. Just because someone says they're not needed, doesn't make it necessarily so. As I recall the RPM intakes don't have the exhaust crossover and as such, you wouldn't need to block the passage anyway.