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First Cam Swap Tomorrow Any tips

  • Thread starter Thread starter tbird187
  • Start date Start date Oct 1, 2005
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tbird187

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May 29, 2002
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Oct 1, 2005
#1
  • Oct 1, 2005
  • #1
I am doing my first camswap tomorrow, I will get some help but mostly gonna be doing it on my own. its in a 95 gt, e7 heads, with trickflow springs, the cam is a f303 camshaft...
 

2L8ULUZ2

Will kiss Moderator ass for title
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Oct 1, 2005
#2
  • Oct 1, 2005
  • #2
First are you comfortable with being able to remove the dist and get it back in correctly? I think that is the biggest fear I have noticed people talking about when doing any major engine work. I would also make sure that you have everything you need there when it comes to gaskets, etc. I learned a long time ago that a couple hour job can turn into a two day job when you are having to run back and forth to the parts store cause you don't have everything that you need. I assume that you know the steps involved in this or have some kind of directions to guide you along? And do you have all the tools necessary to complete it? I ask this because you said it was your first time in doing this. Also let me caution you that there is a good chance your computer will not like the cam at all and give you idle problems. And it is probably going to kill some low end torque if you are still running the stock heads that you have listed in your sig. Good luck with it and I guess the best advice I could give you overall is make sure to label everything, and I like to keep every nut and bolt in a seperate paper bag with where it came from written on the outside of the bag and stapled closed.
 

GRGT1994

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Sep 22, 2004
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#3
  • Oct 1, 2005
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Do you have that handy lifter tool, or are you pulling the lower intake manifold too?
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
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Oct 1, 2005
#4
  • Oct 1, 2005
  • #4
try to get the engine as close to #1 top dead center as possible, easy way is to rotate engine over untill you feel air coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. also the dist rotor should be pointing to the #1 connection

drain coolant/oil
remove upper/lower intake
remove dist
remove valve covers/rockers/pushrods
remove the lifter retainer at the bottom of the lifter valley
remove lifters(would also be a good idea to replace them while you have them out)
remove water pump
remove balancer
remove timing cover
remove timing chain and gears(also a good idea to replace)
remove cam retainer plate
remove cam CAREFULLY
load the new cam up with some assembly lube and slide it in gently, you dont want to force it and mess up a bearing

then just put everything back together

also you want to keep track of where each lifter/pushrod/rocker came from so they go back in the same place
 
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tbird187

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Oct 1, 2005
#5
  • Oct 1, 2005
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I have not updated my sig... Yes I have ported heads,intake ect.... Is it possible I can swap teh cam wihtout removing the intakes?????? I was htinking 16 pin magnets to hold up the lifters anyone got any ideas thanks
 

GRGT1994

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#6
  • Oct 2, 2005
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I believe I saw a tool on Summit Racing (or somewhere else) that helped u pull up all of the lifters without removing the lower intake. You could probably just try your idea, as that's probably effectively the same thing.
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
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Oct 2, 2005
#7
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #7
GRGT1994 said:
I believe I saw a tool on Summit Racing (or somewhere else) that helped u pull up all of the lifters without removing the lower intake. You could probably just try your idea, as that's probably effectively the same thing.
Click to expand...

The magnet idea is a little scary, as all it takes is one slip, and it's time to tear apart the motor. I would just do it right and yank the lower.

I wonder how that tool you speak of works anyway....pretty scary.

Urban96 said:
try to get the engine as close to #1 top dead center as possible, easy way is to rotate engine over untill you feel air coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. also the dist rotor should be pointing to the #1 connection
Click to expand...

IMO the easiest way is to turn the crank by hand until the timer mark is pointing at 10*, then check to see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire, then you know you are there. Then yank the dizzy and forget about it. If it's 180* away from the #1, turn the crank another 2 turns until you get back to the 10* mark and you should be there.
Scott
 
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blk9450

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Oct 2, 2005
#8
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #8
mo_dingo said:
If it's 180* away from the #1, turn the crank another 2 turns until you get back to the 10* mark and you should be there.
Scott
Click to expand...

wtf 2 turns would put you back in the same place. one turn of the crank=half on the dizzy
 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member
Feb 16, 2001
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Oct 2, 2005
#9
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #9
I know AFM sells those lifter magnets, like 79.00 or so for the set?? Would be the balls if youhad them ahead of time...

FWIW...on the timing cover I used this.... just poke a hole and stuff the bolt thru in order...there's odd lenghts and positions to keep track of...
It helps keep the confusion down...
 
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tbird187

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#10
  • Oct 2, 2005
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Hey guys 6-7 hours later im ready to set the timing... was a long day but everythign went pretty smooth except getting the balancer off took me way longer than expected..
 

GRGT1994

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#11
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #11
Congrats tbird187. Did you end up pulling the intake manifold?

Rio5.0 - That cardboard idea rocks! Wish I had thought of that when I did mine.
 
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tbird187

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Oct 2, 2005
#12
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #12
yeah I pulled the intake... got to scared trying it with magnets... Didnt wanna have to end up doing more work than I had to. Anyone know where the spout connector is on sn95 car?
 
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blk9450

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Oct 2, 2005
#13
  • Oct 2, 2005
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think its by the tfi module on the passenger inner fender. i could be wrong. i miss my 94
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
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#14
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blk9450 said:
think its by the tfi module on the passenger inner fender. i could be wrong. i miss my 94
Click to expand...
yep right near where the stock airbox is/was if you have a CAI
 
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tbird187

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Oct 2, 2005
#15
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #15
Well guys no fire.. I got some kind of back fire one when messing with the distributor??? I thought i had it at top dead center at 0 on the balancer.. can anyone help me find top dead and where is #1 on the dizzy cap
 

RIO5.0

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#16
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #16
At TDC on #1 your balancer should read bout 0 and the rotor should be around 1:00...place the cap on and see how it lines up...rotor to #1 on the cap..
From there I lift and grab another tooth to line things, up rotor-cap wise...
 
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tbird187

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#17
  • Oct 2, 2005
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hmm what is the firing order i may have somthign wrong i swear i have the distributor lined up perfect
 

RIO5.0

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  • Oct 2, 2005
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1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
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Oct 2, 2005
#19
  • Oct 2, 2005
  • #19
blk9450 said:
wtf 2 turns would put you back in the same place. one turn of the crank=half on the dizzy
Click to expand...

you are right.....sorry about that. Must sleep........
Scott
 
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tbird187

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Oct 3, 2005
#20
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #20
Hey guys I got it going the distributor was 180 out... got the timting set and I am extremely happy with the cam.... And it idled perfect first fire!!!! hast died on me yet.... now moving on to some new problems.. I dont know if my stock fuel system is starving it or the stock air box with paper filter is lol....
 
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