First drive with FTI combo (Part II)...

I plan on going to the track this weekend...I'm actually off work to do it...but I got a few problems...so help me get there...

First...the car has been driving fine the last two days...and I've tested out the power and it is there now... ...I just wasn't going up high enough in the powerband with traction...at 4k it starts pulling HARD...

Anyways...I'm pulling my car in my backyard (sorry no shop...but good shade) to take the upper intake and valve covers off...etc...to retorque and adjust the valves and as I'm pulling in...I let out of the clutch at to slow of a speed and the car dies...well I try to start it up right after to keep moving and it goes "rrrrrrrr...rrrrrr....rrrrrrrrr" (with each turn of the key)...trying to start but not firing up...so I don't panic (the car was getting hot by that time...it does that at low cruising speeds...fan can't keep up...I'm used to it)...and just waited about 4-5 minutes and while popping the hood and checking everything and go to start it up and it starts right back up like nothing happened?...now what could have caused this...I think it was heat related...????

Okay next I have a bigger header gasket leak than I thought...after the car had shut off and didn't start up...I popped the hood and see exhaust coming out of one of the header flanges where it is supposed to mate up against gasket and head...I bet if I retightened the header bolts it will help that out...because it wasn't that bad a day or two ago...but I didn't tighten them up yet because the heads are still "hot"...I'm going to tighten tomorrow...so in short...is it going to hurt the engine at all running with an header gasket leak...? Oh yeah...today I ordered the FEL-1415 header gasket set but I doubt I'll get them on by this Saturday...

Next...when I go to start up the car at any time...it almost stutter starts and then fires up "officially"?...it will go "vrrmmm....VRRMMMM"...the first one is about 700rpm then it (bigger letters)...jumps to 1800 rpm within a 1/2 second of each other atleast...any ideas?...

Also...when I took off my upper intake plate (right side)...a little amount of oil was in the intake coming through the pvc hose I believe...there was a little puddle of it...what can stop this?...what does it mean?

I hope I made sense with these observations so you all can help me out...

David

5.0Droptop said:

hard to start when hot is likely timing.

oil in intake is very common to our cars.

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So does that mean to much timing or to little...

What causes the oil in the intake?

bgjohnson said:

well I assume that you have no baffle in the valve covers and it's sucking up through the filler neck in the valve cover or it's from the PCV, AKA pretty much nothing to worry about. and I 've heard of people having vacuum leaks that expand when it warms up and gets worse, so I'd check that out first. also I'd recheck the TPS sensor if you havn't already as well as making sure your MAF is okay too.

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I took off the baffle underneath the oil cap so the rockers would clear...but there was lots of oil in my stock intake before the H/C/I swap...and the oil is coming from the fitting underneath the upper intake where the pcv hose is connected to the bottom of it...I know it is related to the pcv...just don't know how to stop it or what exactly causes it...will a new pcv valve fix it or do I need more...?

So your saying my car not starting could be because of a vacuum leak...I haven't heard or seen anything that would cause a vacuum leak...

I need to get a digital voltmeter and then I'll check the TPS...

David

def1eppard said:

Sometimes my car does that vroom VROOOOOM start you're talking about. It annoys me but I've never tried to fix it. Also sometimes it will do the barely start rrrr rrr, but it always starts even when it does that. Is it just me or does timing just automatically throw itself off even after you set it.

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It does seem like that to me (referring ot the timing automatically adjusting itself)...

93 teal terror - Good ideas there...I'm going to try a new pcv valve (with screen) and hoses and if that doesn't help I'm going with the water seperator...

Now only if I could fix my A/C problems...thats a whole 'nother thread there

Keep some answers coming for my first post...

ttt...

I cleaned out the IAC about 3 months back and it didn't do anything then...maybe it will now ...

Oh...after I readjusted the valves...I went to tighten down the valve covers and heard a crack (to much torque)...and there is a hairline crack around where the bolt goes in and a bit on the side...I put some silicone on it...I think I'll be fine...what do yall think...since oil doesn't exactly flow against the valve cover...

I'm also going to try to set my idle up...it wants to die right after I start it...maybe the higher idle will catch it...(current idle is 700 rpm)...

ttt...

MustangPunk302 said:

Yeah, it actually does "throw" itself off... When the spout connecter is plugged back in, then the computer is controlling the timing of the engine.. You can only set the base timing of the engine (spout connecter out), other then that the computer is in full control of advance/retard..

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When we set "base timing"...my buddy (knows more than I do about actually setting timing)...didn't unplug anything from the distributor...?...what is that going to hurt...we just did the compression stroke/rotor pointed towards #1/ and lined up the marks on the balancer...and then just turned it over towards 16* with a timing light...did we do something wrong?

Alright...I got my header leak fixed but there is still a little ticking...I think it is just the valvetrain noise...(lifters)...

I found out...we didn't take the spout out when doing the timing...so we redid it today and it was sitting on 14* timing when we thought it was 16*...so with the spout out we set it to 16*...I guess the spout just keeps the timing from advancing up when at certain rpms...so you can set it at one point...

I was going to run tomorrow but I decided not to...but I'm still going to go...I'm going to take the advice and get a fuel pump...probably order tonight...any suggestions?

And their is no way to get rid of the rich idle without a tune right?