First fox last week. Making it more reliable.

address that wiring, jesus christ.

do a decent tune up, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel filter, clean sensors, maf/iac, ect. go over timing, sounds like you are on top of this already..

tidy things up then address the remaining issues. kyb stuff is available at the local parts stores and is a decent shock for a driver. subframe connectors are good for stiffening the car up..

as far as reliable, i have only been stranded once by my fox from a fuel pump failure. the engines run forever, just get on top of the electrical portion of the car imo.

thats the problem with foxes..

they are cheap enough that joe dirt can get one and really leave some havoc for you to deal with. i have been there and done it with a few foxes now. just part of the game..

nice car good deal. sounds like you know what your doing have fun dont go crazy

looks like a fun project!

If you can find one. Get your hands on an Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual. Worth their weight in gold for tackling wiring issues. They pop up on ebay every once and a while. It's a good thing you know what youre doing with wiring. You'd probably be way in over your head if you didn't.

Are you planning on moving the solenoid back to the front of the car? It really should not be in the back. Also, positive wiring coming from the battery looks TINY, especially with the battery being in the trunk.

PM me your email address and I will send you a complete Ford Factory 89 Mustang electrical diagram set. The zip file is 2.5 MB and is too big to fit through Stangnet's email gateway. The 88 and 89 Mustang are very close to the same wiring scheme except for the body computer wiring harness. If yours is a Mass Air conversion, there will be even less difference.

89 Mustang wiring diagrams zip package–

They are in a zip file format to reduce the size of the package. You’ll need WinZip or other Windows archive tool to extract them from the zip file. See MajorGeeks.com - Download Freeware and Shareware Computer Utilities. - Download Freeware and Shareware Computer Utilities for a free download.

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions - Adobe Reader download - All versions

Neltech said:

Yeah it struck me today that the battery charging wire is way to small. The power wire is 2 gauge or so and its quality wire. The battery is grounded in the trunk and then there is another smaller wire (roughly 8 gauge) that runs up to the front and grounds where the motor ground meets the car. There are wires just everywhere! I'm sure I'll be moving the solenoid back up front if thats where its supposed to go.

A guy on a mobile electronics installer forum says I paid to much. I don't think i did. thoughts? the car had so many parts on it already that i couldn't not buy it.

PM sent!

Click to expand...

Everyone will have their opinions on value. Sure, there is a general collective, but at the end of the day the most knowledgeable person can misjudge. If you are happy, you paid the right price

Other than the rats nest of wiring it looks like a solid car, I don't think $3k is too much at all. It also depends I think on where you live, for example if it's in the northeast prices seem to be a bit higher for something solid like that.

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.




The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


For a battery cut off switch, see Moroso : Category Display
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg