flashing air bag?

Mine Just came back from the dealer for the same problem..
FIRST: Does your horn and Cruise Control Buttons Work
If they dont I hope your pockets are deep....800$ there is a coil like ring that sits on top of your airbag if that moves every so slightly it cause all those functions to stop working and they will have to replace it.

SECOND: If your car has none of the above issues. A simple trip to a dealer to fix the code will work...NOT TO $$$$$
 
Holy Smokes. That's very interesting. Mine is throwing a 52 code. There's only one dealership in town that I know of, and I hate them. I'll take it up there anyways.


My battery looks near brand new. I've had it for almost 2 years. 7 year warranty on that bitttttttch!

LFC code 52 - Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault

The SRS(airbag) system contains 3-4 capacitors and a voltage transformer that steps up the voltage for the SRS system. Whenever you turn the ignition switch on, the air bag internal computer monitors the voltage at this capacitor. When the SRS computer performs a self diagnostic after the key is turned on, it looks to see at 23 volts within 45 seconds. If the voltage doesn't reach the correct level expected, the air bag warning light will flash LFC code 52.

It can be low system voltage caused by a bad battery or alternator, but these codes are usually fairly accurate and mean what they say. There are specific air bag LFC codes that indicate a bad charging system or low system voltage. I would get it checked out. You don't want to mess around with air bag problems.
 
Mine Just came back from the dealer for the same problem..
FIRST: Does your horn and Cruise Control Buttons Work
If they dont I hope your pockets are deep....800$ there is a coil like ring that sits on top of your airbag if that moves every so slightly it cause all those functions to stop working and they will have to replace it.

SECOND: If your car has none of the above issues. A simple trip to a dealer to fix the code will work...NOT TO $$$$$

That's the clock spring. It provides a continuous electrical path from the Restraints Control Module (RCM) to the driver side air bag. It can move around and cause problems, but it does not always make the horn and cruise malfunction. It is a common problem on all Fords. Were you getting any body(B) codes? Did the dealer perform a On Demand Self Test?
 
LFC code 52 - Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault

The SRS(airbag) system contains 3-4 capacitors and a voltage transformer that steps up the voltage for the SRS system. Whenever you turn the ignition switch on, the air bag internal computer monitors the voltage at this capacitor. When the SRS computer performs a self diagnostic after the key is turned on, it looks to see at 23 volts within 45 seconds. If the voltage doesn't reach the correct level expected, the air bag warning light will flash LFC code 52.

It can be low system voltage caused by a bad battery or alternator, but these codes are usually fairly accurate and mean what they say. There are specific air bag LFC codes that indicate a bad charging system or low system voltage. I would get it checked out. You don't want to mess around with air bag problems.
I've been having problems with my "always hot" 12V wire in the trunk where the voltage would drop. Is the air bag system in line with this wire?

P.S. How do you know so much about air bags, or where are you getting your information?
 
I've been having problems with my "always hot" 12V wire in the trunk where the voltage would drop. Is the air bag system in line with this wire?

P.S. How do you know so much about air bags, or where are you getting your information?

The air bag system is not technically on the same sub-system as the 3rd brake light truck release solenoid/relay, but they do share the same subsystem via the GEM (generic electronic module).

I didn't dig real deep into this, but there are 3 connectors that apparently plug into the GEM. Connector 406 houses Pin#3 which leads to the 3rd brake light and truck release solenoid. This is a BN/WH(brown wire white tracer) wire that is possibly grounded somewhere between the GEM and the trunk release solenoid. This is circuit 486. There should be a fusible link very close to the 3rd brake light housing along the BN/WH wire. Check that as well.

Connector 532 on the GEM houses Pin# 10 which is the driver’s side airbag output lead. This is a LB/BK(light blue/black) wire and it’s on circuit 1083. So as I said they are actually on different circuits, but if the fusible link is out, or if the WH/BR wire is shorted or improperly grounded, it could be causing a weird relationship between the air bag code and your problem with the 3rd brake light.

Also, both the left and right license lamps, the 3rd brake light, and the trunk release solenoid share a common ground so check that ground as well.

Also check Fuse 25 in the CJB.

Here is the power distribution diagram for the 3rd brake light circuit:

3rd brake light power dist diagram
 
My problem isn't my 3rd brake light, it's the actual inside-trunk light. They share the same ground, but not the same power, as one is always hot and the other is hot when braking.

Is the CJB the one under the hood or in the passenger compartment?

Both license lamps work fine, as well as the 3rd brake light and the trunk release solenoid. Maybe I'll disconnect my sequentials for a while to see if that'll help.
 
My problem isn't my 3rd brake light, it's the actual inside-trunk light. They share the same ground, but not the same power, as one is always hot and the other is hot when braking.

Is the CJB the one under the hood or in the passenger compartment?

Both license lamps work fine, as well as the 3rd brake light and the trunk release solenoid. Maybe I'll disconnect my sequentials for a while to see if that'll help.

Do you mean the bulb attached to the 3rd brake light housing that comes on when you open the trunk? If so it shares the same power and common ground as the 3rd brake light according to the wiring diagram. My manuals don't even show a "always hot" wire for circuit 486.

The CJB is the fuse box under the dash.

What are sequentials?
 
Do you mean the bulb attached to the 3rd brake light housing that comes on when you open the trunk? If so it shares the same power and common ground as the 3rd brake light according to the wiring diagram. My manuals don't even show a "always hot" wire for circuit 486.

The CJB is the fuse box under the dash.

What are sequentials?
My car is a 98 GT, if that makes any difference in wiring. But yes, I am talking about the bulb attached to the 3rd brake light housing that comes on when you open the trunk. On my car it doesn't share the same power, but it does share the same ground. Are you looking at a Haynes? My Haynes shows an always hot to the trunk light.

Sequentials are a type of taillights, see here: http://www.meter4it.com/96-04_Mustang.htm

They tap into the trunk light power.
 
My car is a 98 GT, if that makes any difference in wiring. But yes, I am talking about the bulb attached to the 3rd brake light housing that comes on when you open the trunk. On my car it doesn't share the same power, but it does share the same ground. Are you looking at a Haynes? My Haynes shows an always hot to the trunk light.

Sequentials are a type of taillights, see here: http://www.meter4it.com/96-04_Mustang.htm

They tap into the trunk light power.

I wouldn't ever even allow a Haynes manual anywhere near my shop.:) Half the information in them is incorrect. When I was doing my L-1 advanced certification a year after I got my ASE master, we were shown all of the problems and all the gross misinformation in the Haynes manuals.

I am looking at the Alldata and Motorcraft service manuals for a 1998 Mustang GT.

Are you saying their is a solo "always hot" wire that comes into the truck exclusively for the truck light? The trunk circuits are supposed to be normally open, meaning there shouldn't be any always hot 12v wires to the trunk release solenoid or 3rd brake light/trunk light circuit.

Where exactly did you splice into for the sequential power?

BTW, those sequential lights look pretty cool. It's different.
 
No my steering shaft snapped in half at the track and since I had the new one in the above said problems had been happing ...come to find out the "Clock spring" (thanks guys for correcting me) had come loose causing my S**t not to work. The said there was no B codes being thrown...is there a tool I can buy to check that, My scan tool didnt pick up on it, not ONCE..???