For those of you on the fence about getting a blower

[HoustonGT]

Well, i have been in the same position for the last 7 months or so trying to decide between getting a blower or staying N/A for now and spending money on bolt-ons and stuff. I decided to start a thread to show the price comparison between the 2 and also show you guys the lowest possible prices on the parts that i could find (BTW, all bolt-ons include shipping). PM me and i'll let you know where i got each the price for each part. Notice that i left out the labor prices for both just because those can vary so much, but be assured i have attempted to find the lowest prices on all the bolt-ons....Don't be a smartass and say they can all be had used on Ebay for less...i'm talking new stuff here, so here it goes

First, the supercharger. I chose to use the Mongoose kit from Modular Ppwerhouse just because it seems like the best deal out there and Tim supposedly has the best tune. It comes with the following...
1.)Vortech SQ or S-Trim,
2.)MPH tune - with X-Cal-2 Flasher
3.)focus fuel pump
4.)42# injectors
5.)90mm MAF
6.)Spark plugs
7.)IAT sensor
Total $3,770.00 + shipping
RWHP : 360-380 Not too sure, anyone with the kit wanna chime in ?

Now, the bolt-ons. Mind you, it doesn't include exhaust because i already have a setup
1.) JLT RAI $190.00
2.) Accufab Plenum & Throttle Body $408.49
3.) Steeda Underdrive Pulleys $170.95
4.) BBK Longtube Headers $470.20
5.) VT Stage 1 or Comp Cams 262's $500.00
6.) Diablo chip and Dyno Tune from Houston Performance $460.00
7.) Modular Powerhouse Stage 2 1/2 Heads $1,950.00
Total $4,149.64 shipped
RWHP : 310-330rwhp based on the tune


So basically, i realized that if you can be patient enough to save up for the Mongoose kit, than go ahead and wait. But then again I guess it depends on the amount of power you are satisfied with, but i just thought i would do the analysis for those of who have always wondered what it would look like to price everything out and maybe help some of you make your decisions, whichever one it may be.

Disclaimer : If you're rich, you can always combine mods from both list and have 400+ rwhp easy

 

[exindust]

awesome write up man... at least now people have a number in their face to compare the two....

add those pesky labor charges for those NA parts for those of use who cant install them and that 4k shoots up BIGTIME plus keep into consideration most NA guys will do some sort of gear swap as well... + $180 + Install...

Its pretty apparent who the winner is here.

 

[HoustonGT]

awesome write up man... at least now people have a number in their face to compare the two....

add those pesky labor charges for those NA parts for those of use who cant install them and that 4k shoots up BIGTIME plus keep into consideration most NA guys will do some sort of gear swap as well... + $180 + Install...

Its pretty apparent who the winner is here.

Thanks man. I didn't throw in install because most of those can be done by the average guy. Also left things like gears and suspension out because they would be useful in both setups and make the numbers too complex

 

[Red35th]

Nice write up. Don't forget that anyone can install a centrifugal blower, but putting heads and cams on is a PITA.

 

[Stang|ess]

Now, the bolt-ons. Mind you, it doesn't include exhaust because i already have a setup
1.) JLT RAI $190.00
2.) Accufab Plenum & Throttle Body $408.49
3.) Steeda Underdrive Pulleys $170.95
4.) BBK Longtube Headers $470.20
5.) VT Stage 1 or Comp Cams 262's $500.00
6.) Diablo chip and Dyno Tune from Houston Performance $460.00
7.) Modular Powerhouse Stage 2 1/2 Heads $1,950.00
Total $4,149.64 shipped
RWHP : 310-330rwhp based on the tune

I'd ditch the heads, up it to stage 2 cams, and add new valve springs and be near 300 rwhp for ~$2400. Don't forget the tune. Price varies so add a few hundred more to the total.

Stock was more than enough horsepower for me, and anything else is just gravy. I'd love a blower, but it's not practical for me since there no drag strip anymore (closed down a few months ago), and the island is too damn small.

 

[04gtdrop]

nice write up!

 

[hognutz]

that is exactly why the 9psi kit is in my future. even though I would do my own labor the cost is still way up there to say n/a an the power level is not.

you should add fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and pod to the blower total though because IMO they are really a must have. the price is still even though.

 

[propellerhead]

Good point. However, I have a daily driven Mustang that I like to beef up. I am not building a track car. That said, I don't have the discipline to save up $4000 and drop it all at once on a blower. If I saved up that much, it would get invested or used to pay off a mortgage or car loan. I find more enjoyment in spending under $500 at a time and building up the car over time.

 

[timeless2]

Your 1st option ignores the fact you may have to replace your rotating assembly, depending on tune and driving habits. The cost will be greater than option 2 afterward.

 

[Torinalth]

Your 1st option ignores the fact you may have to replace your rotating assembly, depending on tune and driving habits. The cost will be greater than option 2 afterward.

someone in my case would fit this role, i have 127k in the motor... so would adding 9psi be a good choice? i hear a blowout in my future if i went this route. going NA in theory would not solve the problem either, however it is cheaper to get a shortblock, or dare i say a low mile used motor to go NA.. and possibly go 4v na? part for part i do see your result as correct, however high milage motors will need replacements $$. just something to chew on.

Torinalth

 

[helty]

Your 1st option ignores the fact you may have to replace your rotating assembly, depending on tune and driving habits. The cost will be greater than option 2 afterward.

good point, and Im sure thats why he chose the Mongoose kit. According to MPH, they've NEVER lost a motor with the tunes you get with the kit. Doesnt mean it cant happen, but there are a lot of people that will testify to the reliability of those kits.

In the same breath, you could have to tear the motor down and get new pistons if you have PTV clearance issues going the N/A route with cams.

Point is when modding, no matter what route you choose to go, there are risks associated with each and you will spend money either way. As long as you have parts installed and tuned RIGHT, the chances of problems decrease.

 

[hognutz]

Your 1st option ignores the fact you may have to replace your rotating assembly, depending on tune and driving habits. The cost will be greater than option 2 afterward.

you do not need to replace you rotating assembly with that kit. stock is just fine. the only thing you would ever have to upgrade all the way to 600hp is you rods and pistons. rule of them would be rods and pistons much over 400hp, then crank at 600hp or so. now granted if let you tune get lean you can hurt the car but there are wideband gauges etc.


to the people worried about high milage I mean spending 4k on motor mods at 127k is not nessesarily smart either way.

 

[98gtblue]

Is 420rwhp possible with a stock new 04 engine? Or is 380rwhp the limit?

 

[Torinalth]

supposidly 450 is about the limit without swapping out items. that was from a thread done by tim from MPH back when he posted here.

 

[stanggt00]

hey guys dont for get nitrous

you can get a nice kit for about 700 bucks
and with just a few mods you can hang with the blower car as long as your spraying

Now, the bolt-ons. Mind you, it doesn't include exhaust because i already have a setup
1.) JLT RAI $190.00
2.) Accufab Plenum & Throttle Body $408.49
3.) Steeda Underdrive Pulleys $170.95
4.) BBK Longtube Headers $470.20
5.) VT Stage 1 or Comp Cams 262's $500.00
6.) Diablo chip and Dyno Tune from Houston Performance $460.00
7.) nx nitrous kit 50-150shot kit $800.00
Total $ 3000.00 +shipped
RWHP : 280-300rwhp based on the tune
RWHP : 325-400rwhp based on shot and down rigth crazy torque

 

[GT02MG]

Dont bother with the N/A stuff or the Blower if you wanna go real cheap....get some nitrous...check out this guys dyno sheets at the bottom:


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/329662

 

[tico915007]

I went with the mongoose kit from modular powerhouse, everything came as promised i also got there 4 inch boost pipe, I installed everything went to the dyno and let her lose. I used a regular dynojet not a mustang dyno i made 335rwhp not amazing but i am in no way putting down tim's tune or any of the products i am using on the car. It ran a little rich about 10-10.5 to 1 also it was 92 degrees outside and no intercooler kills you, I also have a 9in rear end and tko takes some power as well car. After the dyno i put it 5% leaner at WOT it pulls a-lot harder and runs with a 97 cobra with 4:30's et streets C&L intake short runner intake mac o/r x pipe and mac catback so i am guessing its running pretty good being i raced him with sumitomos 315's and he launched at 5500 and i launched at about 1500 and spinned bad.

 

[02LaserRed2V]

I got the KB bfore most other bolt ons then followed it with the remaining. My only regret was getting the 4.10s, since I don't like them now.

 

[four six]

+1 for blower.
less money and awesome power.
other mods react better to them too

 

[myponyrocks]

nitrous ends up being more than a blower in the long run. You should still run guages with N20 and you still need a tune... and you have to refill the bottle. Its a good short term investment for power, but it is the most costly of all 3 options in the long term.