I'm a little confused here because I'm researching these sensors on LMR and it appears that while there are two sensors in the lower intake, there are three to choose from on LMR?Coolant and intake air temp
Couldn’t tell you. I would be inclined to believe the baffles will hit roller rockers though, I’ve seen them hit on the efi version of those valve covers. We had to grind the boss off where they were threaded for screws to clear.Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?
There are actually 3 sensors there, so if you want new you’ll need all 3.I'm a little confused here because I'm researching these sensors on LMR and it appears that while there are two sensors in the lower intake, there are three to choose from on LMR?
Coolant Temperature Sensor #LRS-12648A
Air Charge Temperature Sensor #LRS-12697A
Temperature Gauge Sending Unit #LRS-TS58
Now that makes sense. Thank you!Couldn’t tell you. I would be inclined to believe the baffles will hit roller rockers though, I’ve seen them hit on the efi version of those valve covers. We had to grind the boss off where they were threaded for screws to clear.
There are actually 3 sensors there, so if you want new you’ll need all 3.
In the order listed;
Coolant temp sensor is what the eec uses to read coolant temp. This is on the metal heater crossover.
Act goes on runner #5 for air temp
Temp sender is for the gauge in the cluster. It’s what you see.
Here's the poor man's bracket minus the AT kickdown.You can get the the thin spacer with the throttle bracket mount from eBay or Accufab with the tb
Here’s the adjustable cable bracket I run
I had that a long time ago. You’ll be happy you bought the piece I sent when you doHere's the poor man's bracket minus the AT kickdown.
They are the same to my knowledge . Just old school MOTORSPORt instead . In my opinion should be fine .Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?
They are identical to mine minus the old school logo . I have Harland sharps under them with no issue .Those more than likely won’t clear roller rockers
The ones we used had the newer logo as well. There was no making them work with the scorpion rockers without some grinding. It is what it is.They are identical to mine minus the old school logo . I have Harland sharps under them with no issue .
I don’t know , been running them on Tfs heads with the sharps since 2014 .The ones we used had the newer logo as well. There was no making them work with the scorpion rockers without some grinding. It is what it is.
I think what you should be worrying about is putting a T inline. This way you can have the stock gauge work and add an aftermarket gauge.It appears on a crate engine like this I'll only need the '90-'93 oil pressure sending unit and NOT the stem. Or am I off here?
I want a stock appearing car with modern hp and good driveability. I don't plan on gauge'ing my dashboard up.I think what you should be worrying about is putting a T inline. This way you can have the stock gauge work and add an aftermarket gauge.
Surely on a brand new $10,000 you are going to run a real oil pressure gauge correct?
The comment on interesting calibration is interesting, and not something I’ve heard before. Even if it’s different from one sensor to another, it wouldn’t matter much on a car that’s getting tuned in person.Reached out to my tuner about the Terminator/Lightning MAF vs Pro-M debate. Here is his response.
"I never recommend Pro-M or PMAS MAF sensors due to inconsistent calibrations. Factory Ford electronics are superior and will support any draw-thru system. The 90mm Lightning MAF will support over 500RWHP on naturally aspirated combinations. The 2005-2010 GT MAF is another great choice when you need more dynamic range."
Maybe he's referring to "store bought" MAF sensors already tuned for a specific fuel injector size versus a custom tune utilizing a Ford MAF.The comment on interesting calibration is interesting, and not something I’ve heard before. Even if it’s different from one sensor to another, it wouldn’t matter much on a car that’s getting tuned in person.
Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?
Exactly what we experienced. Not a dealbreaker by any meansHere's where the interference was. These little nubs on both sides
Only had to grind down a few, but i did have to remove the baffle
And the clearance with the 3/8" intake spacer
I'm digging these old school Ford Motorsport valve covers on Ebay, but it looks like the breather is missing something. What would it take to make these work? I may have to splurge on an early Christmas present for myself assuming I can find the right breather AND these would work on my planned build.
Ford Motorsport Finned Valve Covers | eBay
This is a pair of Ford Motorsport valve covers can cap. Beautiful condition.www.ebay.com
That's not exactly how the math works.A 1.6" dia exhaust valve is less than 1-5/8" and that is not the smallest part of the exhaust. 1.6" is the outside dia of the valve, not the seat area, plus the port gets choked further right at the valve stem/guide area.
1-3/4" long tubes are more than enough for this engine the way it is going to be used.
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