I completely agree. I'll go into this build with confidence now though that I have the right parts AND all the required parts.
Will your engine favor low end torque, or high end HP? Street driving, or track duty? Sticky tires, or street tires.
That question deserves a thread of its own.
That question deserves a thread of its own.
We're talking about this application. 95% street driven with some spirited excursions in the surrounding mountains.
this may dound crazy but i would rather install used FORD OEM working sensors than most new store brand ones. When I go to the JY i make sure to pull the IAT, ECT, TPS, starter solenoids and other do dads. IMO they work better and last longer and are dirt cheap. Same for water pump bolts, pulleys, brackets, window motors, door poppers, interior switches. distributors, TFI;s harnesses etc. these cars are 30 + years old and you will need to have backup/replacement parts around as they ain't cheap anymore.
2.66 would be my vote then with 3.73s out back. More manageable for street driving and I think you will have the power for it, as well as being in a lighter car.
I was more wondering about the actual size of the tire, because a 2.9X first gear feels a whole lot different whether it’s a 26in or a 28in rear tire, with decently low rear gear.
I’d probably just recommend the 2.66 first gear trans. If you look at modern driveline they also have the wide and close ratio transmissions, but you can choose different overdrive ratios which is nice.
That’s a 25in tire on paper, which will be better with the taller first gear.
Not like it really matters as neither one would hook with those tires very well
I'm just not seeing the value in this engine. 12k for a longblock for a street car? You can get a dart based 331 shortblock from CNC Motorsport for $5200ish. Set of AFR 185s for $1800. Throw in another 1k for misc and you're well under the price of the 363. Just looking from a different view.
i bet Woody can build a motor for less that performs better with better parts
An
Absolutely true, but the only drawback with him right now is the wait time.
I met with my mechanic last week and we spoke tentatively about a mid April car drop off which means I would have to start buying parts fairly soon due to logistic (supply chain) challenges.
I appreciate the push toward a Coyote (modular) based engine. Honestly, it would be easier in the long run due to CARB compliance and room for growth, but I feel the draw to keep the car pushrod based and want a build it and drive it car. The coyote swap is a whole thing with adapting a modern engine to a mid 1970s design, and I don't have the patience anymore after two years to resolve long standing bugs.
Checking LMR, it appears that a Gen 3 Coyote w/engine module and 6 speed trans is approx $1k more than the Z2363 + T-56. It's close, very close as I'm not including the required k member for the Coyote or the different exhaust.
I appreciate the push toward a Coyote (modular) based engine. Honestly, it would be easier in the long run due to CARB compliance and room for growth, but I feel the draw to keep the car pushrod based and want a build it and drive it car. The coyote swap is a whole thing with adapting a modern engine to a mid 1970s design, and I don't have the patience anymore after two years to resolve long standing bugs.
Checking LMR, it appears that a Gen 3 Coyote w/engine module and 6 speed trans is approx $1k more than the Z2363 + T-56. It's close, very close as I'm not including the required k member for the Coyote or the different exhaust.
Last edited: