Forgot how bad I hated bodywork

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Birmingham, al
I remember now though, and HOW. (put a blob on, sand, reveal low/high spot, add another blob, sand,....sand,....sand,)
I am so damn burn't out, I am almost to the point of compromising the standard of quality I'm gonna settle for just to get it done.
If you are a body man, KUDOS. I have spent at least 40 hours on this nose and hood, and I'm still not done. If I was a "professional" It'd be done.'

I thought there was a bunch of dust from grinding,..Naaaah! now the blue dust is everywhere, and it makes the grinding dust look like clean air.


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
 
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I've actually been working w/ it for about 10 days now. It has went from no depth perception and 20/70, to marginal DP and about 20/40. Doc says everything is how it should be (no ancillary damage) but my vision may take up to 6 months if it comes back any better than it is. I think it'll get better, It seems to be better every day.

ON a thread related note:

I look to post pics tomorrow or thursday. The entire front end is basically done. I still have to deal w/ the lower front fender (there is a slight mis-match and 5 holes to weld shut since removing the lower front fender skirt)

I'll do the grille tomorrow. I have duplicated the billet grille on an Eleanor mustang. It's heavy though, (relatively speaking) and I still don't know if I'm gonna go w/it.

I do have a body work question, hopefully a "body guy" will read and answer.
I have put the work I've done in etching primer. I plan on adding a high build primer on that to block down, if I come across a small imperfection that I need to add polyester putty to, can I put it on top of the primer? I'm pretty sure I can, just want to be sure.
 
Hey, I do this stuff for a living. Im currently taking a break from an AAR Cuda I'm doing in the shop, an its going to be black. Best way to do body work on a panel is to coat the ENTIRE panel with filler and block it down. If you find a low spot again, coat the entire panel again. Sounds like alot of work, well, it is, but it will come out alot straighter and you wont chase the low/high spots around as you would if you just filled only the low spot.
 
Oh, and after your body work is almost perfect. Get yourself a sprayable filler and shoot the whole car and block that down with a nice loooong block with 180 then prime it. I use UPOL Reface on every car I do and its amazing stuff!
 
Hey, I do this stuff for a living. Im currently taking a break from an AAR Cuda I'm doing in the shop, an its going to be black. Best way to do body work on a panel is to coat the ENTIRE panel with filler and block it down. If you find a low spot again, coat the entire panel again. Sounds like alot of work, well, it is, but it will come out alot straighter and you wont chase the low/high spots around as you would if you just filled only the low spot.

Thanks, I've found that out the hard way, I was only filling like 3/4 of the area around the problem, and by the time I got that sanded down to see how the low spot was doing, a new high spot would show up.
DONE with that plan, I found out that if there was a problem, the WHOLE area had to be recoated. The biggest pain in the ass is that I'm using a hand(long) block, I only have an air DA, and I don't have to tell you that I don't use that to get a panel straight.
 
on my car they did all the body work, then 3 coats of primer(not 100% sure if it was etching primer.), sanding it between each coat, and a final coat of yellow primer before the basecoat was applied.
 
Yea, I only use air tools to rough in body work. I have a 36 inch durablock and its my best friend. I love that thing. This Cuda I'm doing is a huge project but its going to be black so its gotta be perfect! Good luck with the project!