Fox Engine Build Advice

Looking for advice on my upcoming build, below are my main parts I'm looking at upgrading to. All advice welcome, want to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

Machine work:
Polish/ measure crank journals

Deck block

Inspect block for cracks

Parts:
Engine rebuild kit ($274)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-mk6115a-000/overview/make/ford

Flo-Tek 203505 Small Block Ford Aluminum Cylinder Head ($740)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Tek-203505-Small-Block-Ford-Aluminum-Cylinder-Head,46332.html

Ford Racing 302-001 Small Block Aluminum Valve Covers ($130)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Racing-302-001-Small-Block-Aluminum-Valve-Covers,3223.html

ARP Fasteners 154-3601 S/B Ford Head Bolt Set - 6 PointFord Racing High Performance Engine ($59)

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ARP-Fasteners-154-3601-S-B-Ford-Head-Bolt-Set-6-Point,47449.html

Gasket Sets M-6051-A50 ($70)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6051-a50

Water Pump - Severe Duty Police Package (86-93 5.0L) CHROME ($75)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/severe-water-pump-8693v8.html

Ford Racing Harmonic Balancer - 50 oz (81-95 5.0L) ($75)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-damper-50oz.html

SR Performance Underdrive Pulleys - Polished (86-93 5.0L) ($100) PURCHASED

http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-ud-pulley-polished-8793.html

BBK Electric Fuel Pump Kit - 255 LPH (86-97 V8) ($150)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-fuel-pump-255lph.html

COMP Cams High Energy Die-Cast Aluminum Rocker Arms 17002-16 ($156)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17002-16?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ7m8-DYgMYCFQ6paQodX24Aaw


86-93 Mustang 5.0 Qualifier Upper Lower Polished Intake 70mm Throttle Body Kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371348823672

BBK 1520 Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer Kit for Edelbrock Performer 5.0L ($60)

http://www.amazon.com/BBK-1520-Phenolic-Edelbrock-Performer/dp/B000CIPAYQ

Bama 4-Bank Eliminator Chip w/ 3 Custom Tunes (87-93 5.0L) ($270)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-4bank-custom-8793gt.html

COMP Cams K11-207-3 Magnum 270H ($390)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-K11-207-3-Magnum-270H-Hydraulic-Flat-Tappet-Camshaft-Complete-Kit-Lift-/111555758631?vxp=mtr&hash=item19f93dca27

Ford 302 hard push rods flat tappet cam set (Need measurement before ordering – estimated $50)

Motorcraft Copper Core Spark Plugs AGSF32C ($20)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-sp447

24# Injector 8 Pack M-9593-LU24A ($176)

http://fordracingpartsbydonwood.com/electrical-parts/fuel-metering/24-injector-8-pack-m-9593-lu24a/?gclid=CLyTsMin9sUCFYQ6aQode0EABg

Professional Products® 10601 - Fuel Rail ($185)

http://www.carid.com/professional-products/fuel-rail-mpn-10601.html?gclid=CJKtpPqn9sUCFQYIaQodmoMAMA

Fuelab Fuel Pressure Gauge - 1.5 in. (86-14 All) ($24)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/fuelab-fuel-pressure-gauge-psi.html

1989-93 Ford Mustang Pro-M 75mm Mass Air Meter For 24lb Injectors & Fenderwell Cold Air Kit - Fox Body ($230)

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PMA-12579AF/1989-93-Mustang-50L-75Mm-Black-Pro-M-Mass-Air-Meter-For-24Lb?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=comparison-shopping&utm_campaign=google-shopping-v2&year=1993&gclid=CIa8zaC7-8UCFRSVfgod3Y4AKg
 
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I'd dump the under drives and bama tunes (custom tune here, the chip is fine). I'm not a fan of the heads as you usually get what you pay for. Expect to put springs in them (Maybe I missed them in your list). The fuel rails are not needed at this power level if you're wanting to save some cash.

The rest looks like a solid plan for a fun driver. (pending that is your goal).
 
^^^ I 120% agree on the UD pulleys and the BAMA crap. Those two will cause you heartache. I have gone through both of them and learned the hard way.

As for the heads, there was a discussion a few weeks ago that came to the general consensus of buying the heads bare and adding good components. The stuff they come with is junk.
 
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You get what you pay for. I've been victim of "cheap" aluminum heads myself and won't fall for that again (Patriot Performance). IF I ever break down and buy heads it will be AFR 165's (street cruiser with some track time). That being said, Trick flow and Eddy heads are all good as well. They however are not "budget" as this is one area you want to spend the money right the first time. (man I'm getting old lol).

Good luck, the rest of the combo is solid and should make for a fun driver (even with said chosen heads, just beware of potential issues).
 
+4 on changing the heads. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for them if you assemble with quality pieces. But if you have the money to buy all those parts up front, you have another $600 to get decent heads.

Looking at your list, I'm confused as to why not just buy a top end kit? You have rockers, cam kit, heads, lower intake on your list. A top end kit includes all those in a package that is made to be easily installed and produce reliable numbers with a canned tune. Up the compression, buy a better tuning solution (a good cheap solution is apparently the Quarterhorse/Binary Editor combo on Moates.net), and you'll make 300 to the wheels with the right tune.

Best part of the top end kit imo is the futureproofing of it. I've seen turbo and SC cars with the 185cc AFR's making great numbers. So if you choose to go that road later you can. And if not, you've still got a reliable and potent setup for a fun daily/weekend warrior.
 
Thanks guys. I did research AFR and TK as well as eddy heads, was leaning towards eddy heads as they are about $1k for the set but heard bad things about them in researching. AFR 165's would be awesome but $800-$1000 is easier to stomach than $1600+. Guess I'll have to think about it on the heads. Understood on underdrives and bama, removed from the list. I'll do custom tune. I do have other nickel and dime stuff on the list just omitted and focused on big items.
 
I have researched top end kits. some are cheap and consist of Chinese heads and others are more expensive but seem like overkill for a mild build as well as the operating range of most of the more expensive kits starting at 2000+ RPM range. Focusing on range of 1600 - 5800 RPM.
 
I have researched top end kits. some are cheap and consist of Chinese heads and others are more expensive but seem like overkill for a mild build as well as the operating range of most of the more expensive kits starting at 2000+ RPM range. Focusing on range of 1600 - 5800 RPM.
The comp cam has a 2-5800 range
 
The Trick flow street kit has been proven over and over again for a street warrior combo. Place a blower on that setup and you're cracking blocks. :)

There is nothing wrong with piecing it together to achieve a specific goal but there are a LOT of proven combos out there for similar money to what you will be spending. Save the Under drives, cash on the water pump, fuel rails and you are close to the cost difference of the heads. (whats a few hundred bucks at this point lol)
 
Jegs shows 1500-5800
Magnum 270H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Complete Kit
Lift: .510''
Duration: 270°
RPM Range: 1500-5800

Why is everything flat tappet? Your engine should be a hydraulic roller setup. Eddy heads are more than decent. A lot of people complain that their valve springs aren't that good from the factory but that's kind of a moot point because most people will get new springs that are recommended based on the cam they are running.
 
I have researched top end kits. some are cheap and consist of Chinese heads and others are more expensive but seem like overkill for a mild build as well as the operating range of most of the more expensive kits starting at 2000+ RPM range. Focusing on range of 1600 - 5800 RPM.

If you want a mild build, why not save alot of money and just go buy an Explorer motor with a cam? You'll be hovering around the 300 crank mark if you tune it right, and it's dead reliable and will make power where you want it to.
 
If you want a mild build, why not save alot of money and just go buy an Explorer motor with a cam? You'll be hovering around the 300 crank mark if you tune it right, and it's dead reliable and will make power where you want it to.

Don't normally agree with this kind of statement but in comparison to what the original build idea is I'm on board with this. The Flotek heads with other cheap supporting parts you listed are more expensive and most likely won't net you any more HP than a healthy Explorer (GT-40) top end with a good off the shelf or custom cam would get you for less $$.

If you don't go with Trick Flow, AFR or Edelbrock then go with the tried and true bulletproof budget friendly Explorer top end and it will last you forever and with a little bit of porting you could get about 270 rwhp which is pretty good for what you're wanting.

You can get GT-40 heads for $100-$200, then get them checked, maybe ported, and rebuilt with TFS springs for maybe another $300-$400.
Get a TFS stage 1 cam or similar or custom?
Purchase explorer (gt-40) upper/lower intake for $75-$150. Send the lower part of the explorer intake to Tom Moss for porting for a couple hundred more.
70mm TB, 24# injectors, ProM 75mm MAF.
190 or 255lph Walbro fuel pump