Foxbody sn95 swap wilwood master cylinder issues.

[Buyerz]

I have swapped my 84 capri over to sn95 v6/gt discs, calipers, and booster. I am using a Wilwood tandem 1.00 inch bore master cylinder. I am having some serious problems getting pedal with it. I have bench bled it multiple times. Plugged off all ports, and it hydrolocks instantly as soon as the piston clears the ports. Connected everything back up and gravity, vaccum, and normally bled it numerous times. (Ran two bottles of fluid through it so far) I don't beleive there's any air in the system.

I have a firm pedal about two inches off of the floor with the engine off. With engine running the pedal sinks to the floor and if you step on it you can feel it bottom in the master cylinder. Bled it some more and took it for a ride, tried to bed in the brakes, it stops but leaves alot to be desired. With it up in the air and engine off you can not spin the front wheels but can spin the rears with a pry bar when the pedal is depressed, doesn't look like enough pressure coming out of the bleeder either.

I have verified there are no leaks, kinked lines. Booster pushrod is set correctly. I have a wilwood proportioning valve in line with the rear brakes, and it is set to maximum pressure. Otherwse front and rear are two separate circuits.I made sure the lines are connected to the master cylinder correctly (rears to small resivour, fronts to big resivour)

The stock master cylinder for these brakes has a 1 1/16 bore, though I have read it actually measures slightly smaller. I know smaller bore = softer pedal but more pressure. I just want to be sure a 1 inch bore master cylinder isnt to small to be used with a booster. Thanks

 

[Mustang5L5]

Actually smaller bore equals shorter stroke firm pedal. You should be needed some let efforbto stop the car with the 1" MC.

You should have a firm pedal at the top of the stroke with engine off. A few pumps and it should barely move. If you are getting stroke and stop 2" above floor it suggests might still be air in system.

Are all the calipers on the corrrct side? Posssibke to flip them and the bleeder location prevents getting all the air out. If they are correct, set up a gravity or vacuum bleed, disconnect one caliper bracket bolt and tilt the caliper while tapping it with rubber mallet. Might be some stubborn air.