Pulled of the previous owners piece of ill fitted sheet metal that was riveted over the rusted floor board and saw this. Any suggestions? Can I weld a patch in, like a mini sub-frame connector? The floor jack is directly underneath this weak spot so I dont think it will just snap. I hate these little surprises... Thanks in advance...
Frame rail seems to be missing.
- Thread starter mitchcj1
- Start date
yeah, I guess its not. Its the drivers floor pan looking from sitting outside. The yellow bit in the middle is the top of the floor jack. The frame is about 2" then about 5" missing. then the rest from the aft side of the TQ box back is ok. I just wanted to make sure nobody gasped and said 'youre screwed'. Thanks for the reply though...
BigDaddyCee
Founding Member
Frame Rails
I recently did my rear frame rails. If you have it apart and can see that it is in this bad of shape I would recommend at least doing a patch section for the frame rail. If you look on a site like mustangs unlimited you should be able to find a patch section and cut out what you need. Personally, finding a section in this condition would drive me wild until I had fixed it properly. Just my opinion.
I recently did my rear frame rails. If you have it apart and can see that it is in this bad of shape I would recommend at least doing a patch section for the frame rail. If you look on a site like mustangs unlimited you should be able to find a patch section and cut out what you need. Personally, finding a section in this condition would drive me wild until I had fixed it properly. Just my opinion.
BigDaddyCee
Founding Member
BigDaddyCee said:
Various places...
You can see some that are available by going to http://www.cjponyparts.com/ and doing a search for "frame patch"
rhyno9
Founding Member
mitchcj1 said:
I just finished patching my passenger and drivers side. I documented the passeneger side repair and that can be found
http://1968fastback.homelinux.org/mustang/passenger_frame_rail_repair.htm
The drivers side was more like yours where both the framerail and the floor support were gone. For that side I made the framerail patch and the made another floor support patch to go over the framerail patch. If you would like pics of the drivers side then let me know and I will get them from the dig cam and upload them to the webserver. If you have ??? just let me know.
rhyno9
Founding Member
mitchcj1 said:rhyno, thats what Im lookin at doin allright. It IS driving me crazy. Im uncovering issues everytime I pull a panel off. Cowl issues, Shock tower issues, wheel well. Just wanted to triple check this one being structural and all. Thanks for the replys...
Have fun with it. Next up for me is the cowl. I figured the floors got rotted for some reason. It's gotta be the cowl. So I am gonna tear it open within the next few months. I am not looking forward to that, but I have decided if I am going to fix this car I won't leave anything to chance. Hell it's only 150-180 spotwelds. Every year I tell myself that she'll run and drive next spring. Well I have had this damn rusted heap for 5+ years already and I keep finding problems the deeper I dig. Good thing for me is I have nowhere left to dig but the cowl.
Good luck and if you plan on welding upside down I recommend a welding blanket unless you enjoy burns.
BB1966 said:
Agreed. I guess its better to trim back until you are absolutely sure youve got good metal, even if it means replaceing the whole thing rather than patching. And about the floor pans being structural too. I cant see why anyone wouldnt use sub-frame connectors after seeing the flimsy bits that hold the front and rear together.
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