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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Frame rail seems to be missing.

  • Thread starter Thread starter mitchcj1
  • Start date Start date Oct 15, 2005
M

mitchcj1

New Member
Apr 25, 2005
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virginia beach, va
Oct 15, 2005
#1
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #1
Pulled of the previous owners piece of ill fitted sheet metal that was riveted over the rusted floor board and saw this. Any suggestions? Can I weld a patch in, like a mini sub-frame connector? The floor jack is directly underneath this weak spot so I dont think it will just snap. I hate these little surprises... Thanks in advance...
 

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gsxrken

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Sep 12, 2005
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Weschester County, NY
Oct 15, 2005
#2
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #2
It's not a great picture, but it looks like you need what they call a torque box, as well as the front floor pan and firewall extension.
 
M

mitchcj1

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virginia beach, va
Oct 15, 2005
#3
  • Oct 15, 2005
  • #3
yeah, I guess its not. Its the drivers floor pan looking from sitting outside. The yellow bit in the middle is the top of the floor jack. The frame is about 2" then about 5" missing. then the rest from the aft side of the TQ box back is ok. I just wanted to make sure nobody gasped and said 'youre screwed'. Thanks for the reply though...
 

BigDaddyCee

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Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#4
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #4
Frame Rails

I recently did my rear frame rails. If you have it apart and can see that it is in this bad of shape I would recommend at least doing a patch section for the frame rail. If you look on a site like mustangs unlimited you should be able to find a patch section and cut out what you need. Personally, finding a section in this condition would drive me wild until I had fixed it properly. Just my opinion.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
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69
BC Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#5
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #5
You can get frame rail "caps". They are slightly larer than the original rails and are ment to be welded overtop of what's left of the original rail.
 

BigDaddyCee

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Oct 16, 2005
#6
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #6
70_Nitrous_Eater said:
You can get frame rail "caps". They are slightly larer than the original rails and are ment to be welded overtop of what's left of the original rail.
Click to expand...

Who sells these? I am interested in finding out. Thanks in advance!
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
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69
BC Canada
Oct 16, 2005
#7
  • Oct 16, 2005
  • #7
BigDaddyCee said:
Who sells these? I am interested in finding out. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Various places...

You can see some that are available by going to http://www.cjponyparts.com/ and doing a search for "frame patch"
 

rhyno9

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Oct 30, 2002
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Oswego Illinnoying
Oct 17, 2005
#8
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #8
mitchcj1 said:
Pulled of the previous owners piece of ill fitted sheet metal that was riveted over the rusted floor board and saw this. Any suggestions? Can I weld a patch in, like a mini sub-frame connector? The floor jack is directly underneath this weak spot so I dont think it will just snap. I hate these little surprises... Thanks in advance...
Click to expand...

I just finished patching my passenger and drivers side. I documented the passeneger side repair and that can be found

http://1968fastback.homelinux.org/mustang/passenger_frame_rail_repair.htm

The drivers side was more like yours where both the framerail and the floor support were gone. For that side I made the framerail patch and the made another floor support patch to go over the framerail patch. If you would like pics of the drivers side then let me know and I will get them from the dig cam and upload them to the webserver. If you have ??? just let me know.
 
M

mitchcj1

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Apr 25, 2005
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Oct 17, 2005
#9
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #9
rhyno, thats what Im lookin at doin allright. It IS driving me crazy. Im uncovering issues everytime I pull a panel off. Cowl issues, Shock tower issues, wheel well. Just wanted to triple check this one being structural and all. Thanks for the replys...
 

rhyno9

Founding Member
Oct 30, 2002
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Oswego Illinnoying
Oct 17, 2005
#10
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #10
mitchcj1 said:
rhyno, thats what Im lookin at doin allright. It IS driving me crazy. Im uncovering issues everytime I pull a panel off. Cowl issues, Shock tower issues, wheel well. Just wanted to triple check this one being structural and all. Thanks for the replys...
Click to expand...

Have fun with it. Next up for me is the cowl. I figured the floors got rotted for some reason. It's gotta be the cowl. So I am gonna tear it open within the next few months. I am not looking forward to that, but I have decided if I am going to fix this car I won't leave anything to chance. Hell it's only 150-180 spotwelds. Every year I tell myself that she'll run and drive next spring. Well I have had this damn rusted heap for 5+ years already and I keep finding problems the deeper I dig. Good thing for me is I have nowhere left to dig but the cowl.

Good luck and if you plan on welding upside down I recommend a welding blanket unless you enjoy burns.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
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109
Austin TX
Oct 17, 2005
#11
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #11
FWIW...on these cars almost all sheetmetal is "structural" to some degree. I'd treat floor-pans with the same care paid to chassis integrity/accuracy/straigtness as the frame-rails.
 
B

BB1966

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Dec 1, 2004
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Beaufort , NC USA!!!!
Oct 17, 2005
#12
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #12
Do yourself a favor,fix it right (remove and replace all the rusty stuff) the right way or get rid of the car. You can "patch it up" FOR NOW but you WILL have problems later with the same area and it WILL be worse!!!!!!!!!
 
M

mitchcj1

New Member
Apr 25, 2005
79
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0
virginia beach, va
Oct 17, 2005
#13
  • Oct 17, 2005
  • #13
BB1966 said:
Do yourself a favor,fix it right (remove and replace all the rusty stuff) the right way or get rid of the car. You can "patch it up" FOR NOW but you WILL have problems later with the same area and it WILL be worse!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...


Agreed. I guess its better to trim back until you are absolutely sure youve got good metal, even if it means replaceing the whole thing rather than patching. And about the floor pans being structural too. I cant see why anyone wouldnt use sub-frame connectors after seeing the flimsy bits that hold the front and rear together.
 
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