FREAKING FINALLY - The car started today. ??? on volts and whatnot.

65racecoupe

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2002
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Tempe, AZ
Allright.

My friend jumped the car with his 92 vert and it started up. :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

Don't flame me because it wouldn't do this BEFORE the stuff was replaced. Something happened, I am thinking it was the coil, but I am not sure. :bang:

I am going to have MSD look at my stuff that I send them back. I will have some extra parts now I guess.

Thanks to all that tried to help me. I really do appreciate it. :flag:

VOLT GUAGE READINGS. :shrug:

What is my volt guage supposed to read during.....

1. Ignition on, but not running.
2. Idle
3. Running past idle

I think it is reading a little low. I did have trouble starting it a couple times today after the initial starting. I did run the car a little hard on the freeway on ramps, so it should be good to go.

I am probably going to splurge for a new alternator, like a 100 or 140 amp unit.
 
Now I'm totally confused. Engine off, your battery should read right about 12 volts, running/idle about 14 volts. If it reads lower than 13-14 volts at idle, something is dragging down the voltage OR your charging system is not up to the load you are demanding from it.
 
I think I am reading just under that.

I believe my volts were...

off - just barely under 12
running / idle - just under 12
running higher - 13 - 13.5

I do have an electric fan and an electric fuel pump.

This problem hasn't happened before.

Should I pony up for a good alternator? I just have a new autozone regular 65 amp one on now.
 
Underdrive pulleys will have an affect on voltage readings too. Do you have these? The 12 volts that read when the ignition is turned on (but not the engine) is right, as is the 14 volts while idling. The electric fuel pump and fan, combined with headlights is really taxing your system. A good high powered alternator will definitely help. Good luck!
 
I have a mix of pulleys, one is underdrive. I need a new waterpump snout to put my good pulleys on (serpentine pulleys).

Would a 1 wire alternator be a good idea while I am at it? I could get rid of the mess of wires AND the volage regulator, correct?
 
65racecoupe said:
off - just barely under 12
running / idle - just under 12
running higher - 13 - 13.5

.

I have a stock alternator and external regulator. I have a MSD6A and Unilite conversion distributor. My system charges 14 volts all the time, idle or driving, BUT when I turn on the halogen headlights, I do have to watch it if I idle too long, the engine will start stumbling because it drops to 12-13 volts until I bring up the rpms.
 
I would check your battery. It should read more like 12.4 + volts while the car is off. If your battery is below 12 volts while off and won't charge higher than this it needs to be replaced. This would cause slow turnover, not your starting problems though, unless it was severely low..
 
Good news at last!

65racecoupe said:
Allright.

My friend jumped the car with his 92 vert and it started up. :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

Don't flame me because it wouldn't do this BEFORE the stuff was replaced. Something happened, I am thinking it was the coil, but I am not sure. :bang:

I am going to have MSD look at my stuff that I send them back. I will have some extra parts now I guess.

Thanks to all that tried to help me. I really do appreciate it. :flag:

VOLT GUAGE READINGS. :shrug:

What is my volt guage supposed to read during.....

1. Ignition on, but not running.
2. Idle
3. Running past idle

I think it is reading a little low. I did have trouble starting it a couple times today after the initial starting. I did run the car a little hard on the freeway on ramps, so it should be good to go.

I am probably going to splurge for a new alternator, like a 100 or 140 amp unit.

Thats great guy! Sounds like that underdrive pulley is on the alternator. I'd spring for the beefier alt. myself.
Did you guys ever check the timing?
Roy.
 
I am confused. All he did was jump the car and it started?

You did nothing else?

This makes no sense to me if your old battery was good (and you had it checked several times) why would his jumping the car make any difference?

the battery fully charged with the car off should read 12.5-12.8 range. If it's reading under 12 after you put a good charge on it, then something is wrong with the battery.

87
 
As an autozone employee, I would probably not reccomend using a stock type alternator with a electric fan and fuel pump... the stock harness is notorious for voltage drops (over time that is) and adding the other accesories (I'm assuming through relays) puts a larger load on the system...

I would say jump up to the 140amp one from a 94/95 mustang, only need to splice on wire and mine's been good for a while. Plus if you can get your alt to fail the test, get the refund and apply that to a lifetime waranty 140amp.
THe swede
 
If your car had enough voltage for the starter to turn it over properly, then you had enough voltage to run your ignition. I believe it says somewhere that an MSD box will still work all the way down to 5V. You engine would never turn over at that voltage. I know from experience as I couldn't get my car started on night and had a friend jump it for me. It started right up and ran great. I was driving home and the lights kept getting dimmer and dimmer until there was almost light at all. The car still ran foor about 5 minutes although it would sputter a bit. I almost made it home. I had to have it jumped again and let the battery charge for a few minutes and then made it home. What happened it the alternator went ouut on me. The point of this being what I said above: if the engine cranked over, there was enough to power th MSD box.
-Brian
 
out your old coil back on and see if the car will run. sounds like your battery was weak enough from trying to start the car so much that the jump start did the trick, but i still think the coil was the culprit all along. if it was my car i would want to know what the problem was for my own piece of mind. i would also definitely change the alternator, the stock altrenator is barely adequate for a stock car with a decent stereo, much less one that has electric fan, fuel pump and other electrical stuff.
 
dolfan87 said:
I am confused. All he did was jump the car and it started?

You did nothing else?

This makes no sense to me if your old battery was good (and you had it checked several times) why would his jumping the car make any difference?

the battery fully charged with the car off should read 12.5-12.8 range. If it's reading under 12 after you put a good charge on it, then something is wrong with the battery.

87

possibly the fact it was jumped from a bigger alternator and battery??? notice he said it was a pain to start after that....
 
First, it's great to hear you have a running car.

I recommend an altenator from a 94-98 V6 Mustang, they are plentiful and cheap. Here's a place to get a wiring harness and new alternator cable since the old one will be too small. You can buy the parts separately but you don't save much, if any.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67

Here's more info on the install:

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=75

It states you need the red/green wire for it to work.

I have not bought anything from this guy yet, but I've read several of his posts on other forums and he seems very helpful and knowledgable, maybe people who have bought from him can vouch for or against doing business with him. Anyone?
 
I just picked up one of these from Summit. Search for PWM-8-47100 , since they dont have direct links. Even though it says it is not a one wire hookup, it is. Thats a misprint. The NAPA wanted $160 for a 95 5.0 alternator, and I still had to wire it up. I went with this because I was told it puts out 70 amps at idle, and 100 max.