Engine Friends, I'm having trouble with my 86 starting.

[Billy Benton]

I sometimes have 10.9 volts at the coil and sometimes don't. I have changed the MAP , IAC, TFI, and TPS. You can pull the codes manually and only has 81,82 I don't believe these will keep it from starting though. When it cranks it runs very well them within 2 maybe 3 minutes it shuts off and loses power it only cranks over but no start. What do y'all think.

 

[General karthief]

I think you need to check out the cranks but no start checklist here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...start-checklist-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471
Read it over to get familiar then do the steps one by one, take notes and let us know what you find.
If I have to guess it would be a fuel delivery problem but thats just a guess, the checklist will keep you from wasting time and money.

 

[Billy Benton]

I think you need to check out the cranks but no start checklist here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...start-checklist-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471
Read it over to get familiar then do the steps one by one, take notes and let us know what you find.
If I have to guess it would be a fuel delivery problem but thats just a guess, the checklist will keep you from wasting time and money.

Thanks I will check it out this afternoon Sir!

 

[Billy Benton]

Thanks I will check it out this afternoon Sir!

Well went home yesterday evening reached inside turned key and she fired right up ran like a top for about 30 minutes or so and then died. there again no fire from the coil. I'm did notice that the small ground from the firewall next to the solenoid to the negative battery terminal was warm so when I found that I removed battery cable and gave up for the night. Anyone have anymore ideas?

 

[General karthief]

I posted this on another thread where you asked, just in case you missed it:There are several ground wires in the engine compartment, battery to block, not the timing cover, not any accessory bracket, to the block, the small wire from negative cable/post to a small screw between the battery and the solenoid, another black wire from there into a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness, on the drivers side rear of head to small screw in firewall, one in the injector harness that is usually bolted to the intake on the passenger side under the fuel pressure regulator or to the back of the passenger head. I don't know how long you have had the car but the ignition switchs are susceptible to bad connection causing the plastic connector to discolor and make for start/run problems. Not the key switch but the electrical switch under the dash on the steering column.

 

[Billy Benton]

I posted this on another thread where you asked, just in case you missed it:There are several ground wires in the engine compartment, battery to block, not the timing cover, not any accessory bracket, to the block, the small wire from negative cable/post to a small screw between the battery and the solenoid, another black wire from there into a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness, on the drivers side rear of head to small screw in firewall, one in the injector harness that is usually bolted to the intake on the passenger side under the fuel pressure regulator or to the back of the passenger head. I don't know how long you have had the car but the ignition switchs are susceptible to bad connection causing the plastic connector to discolor and make for start/run problems. Not the key switch but the electrical switch under the dash on the steering column.

I've had it about 3 days ran fine at first, now all this has started. Thanks for your input I will get on it again this afternoon